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Pictures of offending valve that wouldn't close up.

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  • Pictures of offending valve that wouldn't close up.

    So here is a shot of the offending valve that I pulled the head to look at. BTW, the head came off easily with no problem with the acorn nuts, but the PB Blaster, vibration, and tapping did NOTHING to get the penetrating fluid up into the threads. They came off absolutely dry with no solvent on the threads, so that was a waste of time.

    The valve was sitting open a bit when I first looked at it, but I pushed the valve lightly with my finger as seen in the second shot, and it went "Click", and dropped onto the seat. WTF??? Probably if I had just started the bike up it would have resolved itself, but maybe not. All I can think of is the valve hung up in the guide a bit due to wear (ovaling) of the guide itself.?????


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    Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.

  • #2
    It could have just hung up on a little bit of rust on that one stem.
    If that was the valve that was open while the bike sat, then the stem would have rusted a little there and then you but the bike, rotate engine a few times and now that valve won't close all the way. You put a little finger pressure on it, and presto!.

    At least, now that you've got the head off, at least you'll get a good look at the pistons and the rest of the internals that you can see.
    Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

    80G (Green paint(PO idea))
    The Green Monster
    K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
    Got him in '04.
    bald tire & borrowing parts

    80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
    Scarlet
    K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
    Got her in '11
    Ready for the twisties!

    81H (previously CPMaynard's)
    Hugo
    Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
    Cold weather ride

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    • #3
      Are you planning to pull that valve and clean it up, or put her back together and go for it? Might be worth it to see if it spins straight or if the rust has buggered the stem seat.
      "Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."

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      • #4
        By the way, you can make a valve removal tool with an old socket, a big clamp, and a large nylon nut, if you don't have a purpose built tool.
        "Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."

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        • #5
          Rasputin has mailed me an old shim bucket I'm going to turn into a XS-specific compressor, following the thread about a 6" C clamp and bucket. Yes I will be pulling this valve and cleaning it up and really examining it. I have two different valve spring compressors, but neither will work on this head. :-( but making the one will be easy. I am going to check the valve guide since I have a dial indicator etc. I'm thinking I'll find an ovalled valve guide bore, rusty valve stem as you suggest LoHo and a seat that needs to be lapped at the least. Bike was a strong runner before I parked it, so I expect the others are fine, but I'll be looking at them too since I have it apart.
          Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.

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          • #6
            tilt the head on its side and
            pour some fuel down both the ports
            and see if the others are leaking/seaping
            before you strip the head down. jat.
            pete


            new owner of
            08 gen2 hayabusa


            former owner
            1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
            zrx carbs
            18mm float height
            145 main jets
            38 pilots
            slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
            fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

            [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

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