So I soaked them in PB Blaster this morning, then going to loosen them. From my VW days I remember the horrors of studs coming out with the head bolts. These are original 33 yr old on there head nuts. Anyone got any tricks or advice? Should I expect them to come off and play nice? I am planning on using the loosening sequence in reverse of how they were tightened.
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Going to remove head nuts, any tricks cautions etc??
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(Disclaimer: I have no first hand experience in taking them off an XS11. Take it for what uts worth.)
I'd suggest using an electric impact to loosen them. The impact will help spin the nut off without taking the stud out... if you have the room.'79 XS11 F
Stock except K&N
'79 XS11 SF
Stock, no title.
'84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws
"What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~
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Hey Courtney,
The PB Blaster is a good start. The directions say to try to apply some "IMPACT", like tapping with a hammer, helps the blaster to penetrate better. Second thing I would suggest is to apply a few minutes blast with a heat gun, apply more PB Blaster, allow cool, heat gun again. The nuts and the studs are both steel, so aside from heat/rust, there should be less fusion affect than the studs into the aluminum hopefully with threadlock at the factory.
As was stated above, a QUICK SNAP of the wrench to "Break it loose" rather than a slow application of loosening torque would be best, in case you do not have an actual impact wrench.
But if the stud does come loose, it's no big deal, you can still separate the stud from the nut, then reinsert the stud into the case with the STUD level/strength threadlock.
The other trick with Reassembly is to also apply oil to the stud threads and contact surface of the nuts, so that you will get a more accurate torque read when tightening them back down. And don't forget the retorque after a first time run in heat and cool down cycle.
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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Ok thanks TC, I will go spray them again, and rattle their cage with a small ball peen but not too hard. I do have an impact gun, in fact 3 air guns, and one electric gun, but man trying to reach in there where the studs are could get interesting. I wonder if it's do-able?? I also have a heat gun, so another good idea. I'm glad it's no biggy if the stud comes out, except that it might be a bitch to angle that stud/acorn nut out of the frame area??Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.
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I've had good luck, on stubborn fasteners, by first tightening them just til you hear them crack the seal then loosen. YMMV HTH GL1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
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Head Nuts are amazingly soft!
So gave them a few love taps with a tiny ball pein hammer about 50 times on each, but VERY lightly. Even with that, you can feel the flat spot where they were struck. Amazingly soft acorn nuts!Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.
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