I had a
similar issue with my LH, it tuned and sync'd just fine, ran really well until the motor got hot during a ride. Then at lights and stop signs, the idle would drop to 400 and stall. It would start right up again but same thing the rpm would drop and it would stall again. I had a bitch of a time finding the issue. Turns out the new intake boots were the problem. Can't remember right now who I bought them from but it might have been parts n more. What the problem was , once the motor got hot and the heat blown back on the boots, the brass metering nipples became loose. You could pull them right out of the boot with just your fingers. Friggin tiawan crap again. Replaced the boots with OEM and haven't had an issue since.
I find that the 80/81 carbs work best at 3 turns out. I used a colour tune for a bit but now I just watch the plugs. They give you a better indication of whats happening through the idle , middle and holy s..t range of the tach.
similar issue with my LH, it tuned and sync'd just fine, ran really well until the motor got hot during a ride. Then at lights and stop signs, the idle would drop to 400 and stall. It would start right up again but same thing the rpm would drop and it would stall again. I had a bitch of a time finding the issue. Turns out the new intake boots were the problem. Can't remember right now who I bought them from but it might have been parts n more. What the problem was , once the motor got hot and the heat blown back on the boots, the brass metering nipples became loose. You could pull them right out of the boot with just your fingers. Friggin tiawan crap again. Replaced the boots with OEM and haven't had an issue since.
I find that the 80/81 carbs work best at 3 turns out. I used a colour tune for a bit but now I just watch the plugs. They give you a better indication of whats happening through the idle , middle and holy s..t range of the tach.
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