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[crazy steve]

As long as you're not running the bike in temps below 40 F, 20W40 or 20W50 should be ok. Yeah, it might be a bit sluggish on starting...

Once temps hit 60, definitely use 20W....

[Tat2demon]

Sounds good. Thanks again.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Facts

Yamaha never recommended 10W oil for these bikes when new (except in cold temps) and it's not a particularly good idea to run it. Yes, it can improve shifting but the downside is poorer oil retention between the pistons/bores. This can lead to piston scuffing, and in extreme cases skirt failure (and a dead motor).

Stick with 20W40 or 20W50. A 15W40 can be used, but I personally wouldn't recommend it....

Got any facts / prof to back any of that up, besides IYHO. I know a great deal about oil, more then I ever wanted too, due to many factors. I don't mean about what did Yamaha recommend 30 years ago when oil tech was nothing, just your claims that 10w40 harms our motors, or any motors for that matter, I am sure it is JIYHO, as I have never seen any evadance to your claim, but, JIMHO

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Oil

+ I was recommending it to "clear" out the friction reducing (if he had used it, and he says he has not) I was not recommending light oil for long time operation, although, it would do no harm, unless you have evadance otherwise? Love to see your prof, not intreseted in your opinion on oil, "opinions very"

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Oil

Just what the real experts say I am not one, so I just listen to them

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...ont%2fmct.aspx

[crazy steve]

Well, let's talk about the Amsoil link first....

APPLICATIONS
AMSOIL 10W-30 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil is recommended for liquid- or air-cooled four-stroke motorcycles, scooters, ATVs and UTVs requiring an SAE 10W-30 fluid

Hmmm... doesn't say anything about substituting it for 20W40 or 20W50.

Next, where are you getting your 'recommendation' of 10W40? If this is what Yamaha is currently recommending, did it ever cross your mind that they're product whores and want to sell you what they have on the shelf? Do you think they actually tested in a XS motor? Or care about the longevity of a 30+ year old bike? If you believe any of that, wanna buy a bridge?....

This is rarely a problem because few people try running the lower-viscosity oil, but I have personally seen it done. And a dead motor was the result. This was discussed at length (with pictures) on a HD forum I used to hang out at, but unfortunately that forum is now defunct, so the posts are no longer available. But here's what it amounts to....

Air-cooled motors are notorious for uneven cooling, and there's the difficulty of maintaining good piston/ring clearances over all operating temperatures. They generally need to be run 'looser' than a equivalent water-cooled motor for just this reason. Now as a general rule, looser clearances need thicker oil; if the viscosity is too low, the thinner oil will 'run out' of the area to be lubricated. This isn't a major issue for most items that have pressure lubrication, but for parts that are 'splash' lubricated (such as the rings/pistons), if the oil runs off too quickly you'll have problems.

All oils thin out as their temp goes up (in spite of erroneous information you'll find multiple places; don't believe me, get a viscometer and check for yourself) and oil temps in the XS motor will go up and down with the ambient temp. Which is why Yamaha originally (and correctly) recommended a 'cold' weight and a 'warm' weight oil. In colder temps, the thinner oil will flow better but still retain enough viscosity to 'stick' to the splash-lubed parts.

Another thing to remember is metallurgy and machining processes have improved since the XS/XJ bikes were built, which is two reasons why these thinner oils can be used in modern motors.

Run what you want in your bike, but I'll stick with 20W oil thank you. In fact, if the XS didn't share oil with the trans/clutch, I'd run even heavier oil as I've seen test results that showed superior piston/ring lubrication on these older-type motors...

[motoman]

As much as I hate to.....gonna have to go with Steve's input on this subject. My Venturer has had nothing but 20/50w in it.....forever, even back in the day when it sat outside in -25 degree weather(nothing some blankets and a heat lamp all nite didn't resolve). Gotta remember, specially if garage kept like mine has been for a few decades now, outside temps have little association pertaining to internal temps of that air-cooled motor once up and running.........20/50w yr. round and I don't play the viscosity change game cause of winter temps.......JMO, and has worked for 30+yrs. with no issues.

[Cuda 69]

my Yamaha manual for the bike,recommends 10-40 for winter,I think under 70 degree's,and 20-50 for summer.

[Tat2demon]

Just priced a full set of stainless lines from Chakal. $324

Think Ill be shopping around for a while.

[Tat2demon]

Ok so far I have this ordered -

Clutch Springs
Motion Pro Tool
Lever Boots (realized late last night I didnt need them so they are for sale :P )
TC Bros Forward Controls, linkage kit and Levers that I can chop up for the controls.
Exhaust Gaskets
Kuryakyn Iso Grips
Kuryakyn Trident Mirror
Brake Boot
Seals and Dust Covers

Still looking for SS brake lines are arent crazy expensive.

[Diskman01]

Ok so far I have this ordered -

Clutch Springs
Motion Pro Tool
Lever Boots (realized late last night I didnt need them so they are for sale :P )
TC Bros Forward Controls, linkage kit and Levers that I can chop up for the controls.
Exhaust Gaskets
Kuryakyn Iso Grips
Kuryakyn Trident Mirror
Brake Boot
Seals and Dust Covers

Still looking for SS brake lines are arent crazy expensive.

I found stainless lines on ebay for less than HALF of what others are getting. Ill dig up the link.

Also, where did you find the taillight/blinkers?? I would love to replace my rattly taillight and stupid wide blinkers.

Also, Walmart has Motorcycle oil (valvoline) for very reasonable. Probably less than the Castrol. I picked up a TON last summer and I think I better stock up again.

Also, I'm thinking of replacing my Cam chain. Let me know if you wanna go in on a chain breaker.

Unless someone still has one on here for the price of shipping?? I saw a thread a long time ago..

[natemoen]

I got ss lines off eBay from a seller named coastguard. The angles on the ends were all straight rather than offset like they should be, but they worked still, just a small bit off effort to hook them up.

Cost was around $80 with a double banjo bolt for the splitter in the front.

[Tat2demon]

I ended up ordering Galfer front lines and may pick up the one piece rear from Chacal. I cant seem to find any other rears around.

Dave, I didnt find any replacement lights for the rear yet. Im probably going to order the stuff for the HID upgrade today.

[Tat2demon]

Just ordered the stuff TC and DGXSER recommended for the HID upgrade.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

Thanks

my Yamaha manual for the bike,recommends 10-40 for winter,I think under 70 degree's,and 20-50 for summer.

Thanks Cuda, "facts" was all I was looking for