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[Tat2demon]

I sold my truck today and now I can finally do a lot of work to the bike. I know what I want to do but not certain on what parts are the best or recommended. I was hoping some of you could point me in the right direction.

Heres the list.

My clutch is slipping under hard throttle so Im assuming I either need springs or plates.

Coil, wire and plug boot upgrades

Stainless brake lines

Valve seals/springs

Possible cam chain. Not sure I need it but figured "what the hell"

[natemoen]

Barnett clutch springs.

Dyna Tech DC1-1 coils

Any plug wire that is solid core (none of that carbon or graphite core stuff)

Stock plug caps are what you want to stay with.

Brake lines. EBay, Chacal from xjbikes.com, galfers. Any work fine.

Valve seals, parts n more or you can get the whole gasket kit.

Valve springs I am pretty sure are no longer available. What makes you think you need new ones.

Cam chain parts n more.

[crazy steve]

Nate covered it pretty much, the only thing I'll add is you also have the choice of 'building' your own brake lines by using AN-3 banjos with correct-length matching AN-3 lines. This has the advantage of eliminating any 'banjo register' issues that sometimes crop up, plus if you have non-stock handlebars you can easily custom-fit that line.

You'll find prices all over the map, so it will pay to shop around...

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

$$$

Plug boots are still advailable from NGK cheap, just cut 1/4" off the wire's when installing. If your coils are bad I will let the experts here tell you as I have seen so many different opinions on where and what to buy? Does your bike smoke at start up? If not, why are you replacing the valve seals As to the clutch, have you or the PO ever used friction reduction car motor oil, if so, I would try a motor flush and then 5w30 motorcycle oil and see if it clears up, if so, change to 10w40 "motorcycle" oil on your next change, if not and you have less then 80k on your bike, new springs should fix the slip if the clutch has been used properly and not fried by stupidity. The auto CCT recommended on the site is a great idea IMHO, and one I will do soon myself, it is easy to check your cam chain slack to see if you need one, follow links on here. Good luck with your bike and your new found$$$

[Tat2demon]

Thanks guys.

I didn't think I needed new valve springs but figured it wouldn't be a bad idea if I was already going to be in there. If its something that never goes bad I wont worry about it.

The stock coils aren't bad but the upgrade sounds nice.

Yeah it smokes at start up. Nothing major but I would like to get it take care of.

I don't know about the PO but Ive only used 20-50 GTX. I haven't pulled it apart to see if its been cooked. The bike only has 24k miles on it.

I put a ACCT and fuse box on it last summer shortly after I bought the bike.

Im also putting on forward controls, Tkat brace, spin on oil filter, LED tail light/blinkers and HID headlight, new grips, seat, and paint job.

Hopefully Ill get most of the stuff ordered tomorrow.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

24k

Thanks guys.

I didn't think I needed new valve springs but figured it wouldn't be a bad idea if I was already going to be in there. If its something that never goes bad I wont worry about it.

The stock coils aren't bad but the upgrade sounds nice.

Yeah it smokes at start up. Nothing major but I would like to get it take care of.

I don't know about the PO but Ive only used 20-50 GTX. I haven't pulled it apart to see if its been cooked. The bike only has 24k miles on it.

I put a ACCT and fuse box on it last summer shortly after I bought the bike.

Im also putting on forward controls, Tkat brace, spin on oil filter, LED tail light/blinkers and HID headlight, new grips, seat, and paint job.

Hopefully Ill get most of the stuff ordered tomorrow.

24k, valve springs should be fine (so should your seals under normal conditions) 20-50 GTX, if it is "car" motor oil, that could explain the clutch slipping, the frictions adds will make a bike clutch slip, the flush and bike oil should fix that, make sure it is adjusted at all the points, especialy at the through out bearing, good luck with your bike

[crazy steve]

Here's the coil tip.... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4868

[bikerphil]

Your cam chain should still be fine with 24K, they will last over 70K (miles) if you have an auto tensioner.

[Tat2demon]

Its the regular Castrol GTX 20-50 that a lot have recommended on here. It is no longer a good choice?

[crazy steve]

Its the regular Castrol GTX 20-50 that a lot have recommended on here. It is no longer a good choice?

As long as it doesn't say 'fuel saving' or 'energy saving' on the bottle anywhere, that's the stuff....

[Tat2demon]

Are these the correct coils?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dyna-DC1-1-C...67a51d&vxp=mtr

The stock are working just fine. Would you still upgrade? Will there be a difference?

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

10w40

Its the regular Castrol GTX 20-50 that a lot have recommended on here. It is no longer a good choice?

Look at the seal on the back of the oil for that spec, and I would go to the Yamaha recommended 10w30 or 10w40, espicaly if your clutch is slipping, the thicker the oil the harder for the clutch plates clear it off and engage, and mine shifts better and runs smother since I changed to 10w40, but JIMHO

[crazy steve]

There should be a circle on the back of the bottle that will have the 'API' rating of the oil in the top half. If the bottom half of the circle is empty, you're good to go.

Will replacing the coils improve performance? Well, maybe.... Most have reported easier starting, but depending on how good the OEM coils are you may or may not see any other change. They do give a generally hotter spark, so chances are decent it may be worth a small amount of mileage.

If that eBay listing is for two coils, that's a good price (and that is the right part number). You'll still need to buy new wires, figure another 30 bucks or so....

[crazy steve]

...Yamaha recommended 10w30 or 10w40...

Yamaha never recommended 10W oil for these bikes when new (except in cold temps) and it's not a particularly good idea to run it. Yes, it can improve shifting but the downside is poorer oil retention between the pistons/bores. This can lead to piston scuffing, and in extreme cases skirt failure (and a dead motor).

Stick with 20W40 or 20W50. A 15W40 can be used, but I personally wouldn't recommend it....

[Tat2demon]

The bottom of the circle is empty. I asked a while back about my bike not wanting to turn over in the winter and it was recommended to put in 10-40. Thats what is currently in it. We just started hitting the low 60s today.

I just went back to make sure my info was right and it seems youre the one that told me that.