Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Dino juice VS syntheitc & engine/clutch

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Dino juice VS syntheitc & engine/clutch

    Ok, so I thought I had decided on an oil for my first XS change, Mobil1 synthetic 15w50. Now I'm reading a couple of posts that say synthetics will cause clutch problems.

    So "synthetic or not synthetic, that is the question!"... or possibly "blend" as well.
    26
    Dino juice (regular petrolleum oil)
    76.92%
    20
    Synthetic
    3.85%
    1
    Blend
    19.23%
    5
    81' XS1100LH "Lady Luck"
    Midnight Ed. turned Special

  • #2
    I had run Dino juice in my bike from the get-go but then decided to switch to Mobil1 15w50 Synthetic. The problems started about 3 weeks later when the starter clutch wouldn't stay engaged while trying to start... hoping that another few hundred miles on Castrol RX will fix that and that I won't have to split the cases.

    In all liklihood my starter clutch was already on the way out, but it was fine until I put the super-slippery stuff in.
    1979 XS11F Standard - Maya - 1196cc (out of order)
    1978 XS11E Standard - Nina - 1101cc
    http://www.livejournal.com/~xs11

    Comment


    • #3
      A few people have reported clutch/starter slipping when using full synthetics. Conventional widsom is to stay with a blend (Castrol is frequently mentioned) or straight dino juice such as Shell Rotella or Mobile Delvac 1300. I happen to use the Rotella, but the Delvac is slightly less expensive. Rotella is about $6.30 per gallon at Wally World or $7.00 at K-Mart.

      Remember, the XS/XJ engine was designed before the days of friction eliminating chemicals and viscosity range extenders common in many of today's oils. The Delvac and Rotella are diesel-service rated, closer in many ways to the oils available in the late '70s and early '80s.

      No matter what you use, frequent changes appear to have more effect than oil brand. I change oil at about 3K miles, most of my miles are done at freeway speeds. Change more frequently if a lot of short-haul or stop-and-go traffic is your pattern. Change oil at the end of the riding season so the bike doesn't sit all winter with contaminants in the crankcase and filter.

      Whatever you use, make sure it does not contain PTFE (Teflon) as this is what seems to cause the slippage problem reported by some owners.
      Jerry Fields
      '82 XJ 'Sojourn'
      '06 Concours
      My Galleries Page.
      My Blog Page.
      "... life is just a honky-tonk show." Cherry Poppin' Daddy Strut

      Comment


      • #4
        Syn. Oil

        Hey Pickman Changed oil to Mobil 1 15- 50w Almost instantly got clutch slippage & starter trouble. Went back to Castrol 20-50w Bike oil ,trouble cleared up in 2-3 weeks. Stick with dino juice. bkr

        Comment


        • #5
          I use the Castrol Synthetic Blend in all my bikes.....about $2-$2.50/qt anywhere. No problems in old or new bikes. 10W-40 in spring and fall, 20W-50 in summer.
          Gary Granger
          Remember, we are the caretakers of mechanical art.
          2013 Suzuki DR650SE, 2009 Kawasaki Concours 1400, 2003 Aprilia RSV Mille Tuono

          Comment


          • #6
            Gary, I though you used Rotella oil? I also like the Castrol blend. Another comment...maybe I am crazy, but I find that if I fill the crankcase to the high mark, my bikes seem to use far less oil between oil changes to maintain that level.

            Originally posted by sixtysix
            I use the Castrol Synthetic Blend in all my bikes.....about $2-$2.50/qt anywhere. No problems in old or new bikes. 10W-40 in spring and fall, 20W-50 in summer.
            Skids (Sid Hansen)

            Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

            Comment


            • #7
              Let me also mention that I believe if you use a Motorcycle Synthetic blend you should be alright...except for your wallet
              1979 XS11F Standard - Maya - 1196cc (out of order)
              1978 XS11E Standard - Nina - 1101cc
              http://www.livejournal.com/~xs11

              Comment


              • #8
                Are the compounds used in the friction discs in modern clutches the same as it was when our bikes were built? Maybe the modern bikes' clutches were designed to be run with a synthetic, or a blend, but I don't know about our 'dinosaurs'. They may be better off with "dinosaur squeezin's". I've been using Castrol 20w-50 for over 13 years, with no problem. Even on the 'rare times' that I let it go too long between changes. I won't use anything else. I like to dance with who brung me...

                Comment


                • #9
                  From my limited understanding, the biggest problem occurs because of the energy-conserving additives in the car oils. When you use a motorcycle specific oil whether it be synthetic or dyno-juice, they don't have the bad for motorcycles EC additives.

                  Oils such as the above mentioned Rotella and Castrol RX do not have EC additives that play havoc on our clutches and starer clutches. Btw, Castrol RX is "Engineered for car and light truck diesel engines." There are a bunch of other oils that are available without EC's also.
                  Last edited by Snow; 03-27-2004, 05:37 PM.
                  1979 XS11F Standard - Maya - 1196cc (out of order)
                  1978 XS11E Standard - Nina - 1101cc
                  http://www.livejournal.com/~xs11

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by skids
                    Gary, I though you used Rotella oil? I also like the Castrol blend. Another comment...maybe I am crazy, but I find that if I fill the crankcase to the high mark, my bikes seem to use far less oil between oil changes to maintain that level.

                    Nope, (I think Jerry Fields does?) it is highly recommended though on the Bandit list. I did use the Mobil Delvac 1300 15W-40 (same thing as Rotella) for a while in my wifes bike, but switched hers over to the Castrol as well. IF I used a regular oil I would use either Shell Rotella or the Delvac 1300.
                    Gary Granger
                    Remember, we are the caretakers of mechanical art.
                    2013 Suzuki DR650SE, 2009 Kawasaki Concours 1400, 2003 Aprilia RSV Mille Tuono

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      oil

                      Bought my 80 LG in 80 been running Castrol 20w50 since day 1, until last season.Put in mobil 1 and almost instantly had problems. Clutch started slipping and Im hearing a knock in bottom end. Clutch is original so its due for change anyhow,gonna put the Castrol back in and see what happens,hopefully I didnt kill it.Think its possible to replace rod bearings through oil pan?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Replacing rod bearings reguires splitting the cases. Besides, you'll want to inspect the crankshaft journals when you remove the rods. You will also need to remove the crank from the cases to get to the fasteners on the rods any way. I know that's just what you wanted to hear.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          rod bearings

                          John, knew Id have to split the cases,just wishful thinking.Not sure if thats the problem anyway.I'll swap clutch ,change oil and do major tune up,seewhat happens.After 24 years it probably deserves new bearings.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X