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Pull rear motor mount to replace right footpeg/exhaust mount, or buff it in place?

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  • Pull rear motor mount to replace right footpeg/exhaust mount, or buff it in place?

    Well put my nice shiny buffed left side footpeg/exhaust mount on yesterday by taking the 17mm nut off. Piece of cake. Went over to the right hand side, and realized that it was not a nut but the head of the rear motor mount. S**T!!! I'm now weighing the chances I can put a hydraulic jack under the motor and slide that mother long bolt out easily, (sure, and I'm gonna win the lottery too), or just suck it up and strip the black paint, then polish the right hand mount in place and save myself a whole lot of swearing, crying, screaming, and lawsuits from the neighbors when I can't get the bolt out, or even worse, get it back in. Whaddya think??? Oh yeah, I also forgot I'm lazy.
    Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.

  • #2
    Bolt out and in isn't hard - just proceed with your plan.

    John
    John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

    Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
    '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
    Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

    "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

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    • #3
      Use a wooden dowel or copper pipe to push the bolt out,it keeps the motor in place . It also helps when you slide the bolt back through.
      BDF Special
      80SG Vetter bagger 1196 Wiseco big bore kit, Mega Cycle Cams, slotted cam gears, ported and flowed head, bronze intake seats, Dyno Jet kit, Dyno coils and Mikes XS air pods, Venture cam chain adjuster,Geezer's regulator, Clutch mod, Mac 4 into 1 with custom built and tuned baffle, Oil cooler,MikesXS emulators mod.
      Dyno tuned to 98 hp at the rear wheel.

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      • #4
        I'm with

        John on this, pull the bolt and remove the footpeg etc and do it the way you intended. The motor will sag but kneeling on a 2x4 on a 4x4 block will push it back up for sliding the bolt back in. I always reinsert from the left so i will be able to get to those two pesky clutch cover bolts easier in the future.
        mack
        79 XS 1100 SF Special
        HERMES
        original owner
        http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6932d5df.jpg

        81 XS 1100 LH MNS
        SPICA
        http://i946.photobucket.com/albums/ad305/mack-055/2.jpg

        78 XS 11E
        IOTA
        https://youtu.be/wB5Jfbp6SUc
        https://youtu.be/RaI3WYHSuWA



        Have recovery trailer and shop if you breakdown in my area.
        Frankford, Ont, Canada
        613-398-6186

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        • #5
          Originally posted by mack View Post
          .... I always reinsert from the left so i will be able to get to those two pesky clutch cover bolts easier in the future.

          What an ingenous idea! I love this site. It's guys like you Mack that always have little tidbits of info to pass along.
          I'm about to do a motor swap and I'm gonna put the lower mount bolt in from the left now, so if I ever need to access the clutch, I can do so easier now.

          THANKS.
          Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

          80G (Green paint(PO idea))
          The Green Monster
          K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
          Got him in '04.
          bald tire & borrowing parts

          80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
          Scarlet
          K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
          Got her in '11
          Ready for the twisties!

          81H (previously CPMaynard's)
          Hugo
          Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
          Cold weather ride

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