Cylinder bolt sleeve?

[mr_misfit138]

Ok, when you remove the cylinders and look at the long stud bolts that the slide on and off of, the second ones in from the edges have a black sleeve spacer on them. Does anybody know how to find these? Or know a good replacement for them? I can't find an OEM part number for them anywhere, unless the only come on the 2F3-11363-00-00 bolts. Mine are practically in pieces, and I do not want to reassemble the engine without them.

Hopefully somebody on here has dealt with this before, and could offer some useful info. I'd sure appreciate it.

[TADracer]

If you are talking about the long plastic sleeves, I took mine out years ago when they were useless like yours. Never have had any problems since. I am sure others will chime in.

[mr_misfit138]

I've considered just leaving them out, but I'm nervous that they may be more important than I'm thinking they are, because the designers put them there for a reason, and I don't want to reassemble the engine, have a rattling noise or something, and them have to tear it down and do it over for something that would be simple to add now, while I've got everything apart. It would just be nice if they were simple to find...

[bikerphil]

I have never heard of anyone being able to find those plastic sleeves new. I have never used them again when reassembling a motor. You should be fine without them, JMHO.

[CaptonZap]

Might try to find some shrink wrap that will fit over the studs. JAT CZ

[TomB]

I always assumed it was Yamahas answer to the problem of the jugs getting stuck on because of concrete like crap forming in the gap between jugs holes and stud sprayed up off the front wheel. A rubber sleeve in there will help reduce the amount of crap that can get in.

The problem is Yamaha made these engines that good that the rubber sleeve has itself gone rock hard and either fallen away allowing the crap to get in or is as hard as the crap, long before the engines need stripping.

I have rebuilt my engines without them but have considered using some rubber tube on the next engine I do.



.

[clcorbin]

Mine fell apart when I pulled the cylinder last fall. No replacement and everything seems to be working just fine. The only reason I can see for them is either to keep crap out of the boss (I kind of doubt it actually, or they would have them on ALL the bolts instead of just the two front center ones) or possibly to dress up the front of the engine.

[TomB]

I kind of doubt it actually, or they would have them on ALL the bolts instead of just the two front center ones

But isn't it the two front centre studs that cause the biggest problem holding down the jugs preventing removal? it has been on my engines, its the centre two studs that get most of the crap from the front wheel.


JAT

[mr_misfit138]

If they're supposed to be for making it easy to get the jugs off, mine definitely didn't work. Or, if they did, I'd hate to see the ones that don't. It literally took me hours spread over multiple days to get mine off without damaging anything. Tons of penetrating oil, rubber mallet blows, and gentle prying on the "safe" areas and I finally got it. The entire base gasket split in half thickness wise, though, so that could have been part of the struggle early on. But, It still didn't get much easier once the gasket was cleared.

If nobody's having any issues without the sleeves, I'll just leave them off and not worry about it.

On a side note, what secret formulas does everybody use to get off the most stubborn stuck-on bits of base gasket you can imagine? I've tried all sorts of things, and there are still a few areas where it won't come off no matter what I do. I dry scraped and peeled, then repeatedly soaked the rest in Master Blaster and scraped little bits that swelled up off, and even tried aircraft remover on the most stubborn of stubborn areas that have almost no thickness left to them, but nothing has gotten them. Most of the little bits left are in .25" to .50" spots, and most of the gasket surface is completely cleaned off down to the metal. How much would I be able to get away with if I left them on there? For example, if they were only .002"-.003" thick would I be OK, or if they were .005"? How forgivable are the OEM gaskets? Or would I be OK if I Permatexed it, since I'm not wanting to ever open it up and pull the jugs again? I've already put days of time into slowly scraping away at this gasket from the bottom end, and it's the only thing keeping me from putting everything back together. What do you guys think?

[bikerphil]

Permatex makes a spray on gasket disolver that should loosen it up, then I would try the small wire wheel on the dremmel tool. You can also try to sand it off with sandpaper. Patience my friend, you will only have to do this only once (on this motor).

[ViperRon]

For the hardest area I have used an exacto knife with a flat blade you can get that into areas where a scrapper or razor blade and dremmel wheel will not fit. Just angle the blade so it does not cut in.

[mr_misfit138]

The worst part is that I've tried all of those things except Permatex's gasket remover, so I guess that'll be the next attempt. I bought and used a whole slew of special-shaped Exacto knives, I went at it with stainless and brass wire wheels on a dremel, and sandpapers from 800 down to 220. Like I mentioned, I have fought this stupid thing for days (cumulaltively, not consecutively) and after all of these things, I've got most of it and have managed not to destroy the surface, but I'm losing faith that it's going to come off. I'm hoping that I'm only struggling so hard because the PO Permatexed it on there, so hopefully the Permatex remover will be exactly what I need to get it off. I'll pick some up as soon as I get back it town. Thanks!

[crazy steve]

Here's what I use..... http://www.keenabrasives.com/Surface...20Type%20R.htm

You can buy these locally too (but they will be more $$)...

[Rasputin]

One thing to note about the permatex gasket remover besides the fact that it works really well is... IT WILL STRIP PAINT...
So be careful not to get happy spraying it around. It will strip paint better than half of the commercial paint strippers.