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Pulling the clutch sidecover off.

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  • Pulling the clutch sidecover off.

    I want to pull the clutch sidecover off my 80sg in order to polish it. I looked in the manual and it seems I can just relieve the clutch cable tension, unclip it and take the cover off via the allen bolts. Anyone got any cautions here, or is it that straightforward?
    Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.

  • #2
    Hey Courtney,

    The clutch lever mechanism is fairly tight, even with loosening the slack, it can be tricky getting the cable out of the handlebar lever. I've had more trouble putting the cable back INTO the clutch lever at the engine. Have to use a prybar to actuate the engine clutch lever to get the cable to reach the slot/clamp on the lever.

    You'll also need to loosen the large bolt on the footpegs so you can rotate the right peg to gain access to the allen bolt near it for the case. Then getting it loose from the engine...I've taken a large pry bar down into the filler hole to help bust it loose, but a thin spatula wedged between the clutch cover and case should allow to get it to separate. Remember, that's a WET chamber.

    While you've got it off, wouldn't hurt to service the throwout bearing assembly, clean, inspect the 3 ball bearings and regrease everything in there.

    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

    Comment


    • #3
      You will want to drain the oil first (wet clutch). Personally, I think you are better off doing the polishing with the cover attached.
      Skids (Sid Hansen)

      Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

      Comment


      • #4
        Yes. Be careful of the arm the clutch cable attaches to does not swing unnecessarily as the three balls in the mechanism can come loose. I really am at a loss for words to describe it in detail but the manual shows it.
        2-79 XS1100 SF
        2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
        80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
        Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by skids View Post
          You will want to drain the oil first (wet clutch). Personally, I think you are better off doing the polishing with the cover attached.
          Thanks Skids, I would if it was just polishing, but first I have to strip the black paint off it. I appreciate the info folks. I'll be careful about the ball bearings for sure. I've already drained the oil. The idea of using a piece of dowel or something in the oil hole for leverage is a great idea!
          Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.

          Comment


          • #6
            Leave the cable hooked up and once your ready to take the cover off give the clutch handle a light squeeze and the cover will pop right off. Then you can unhook the cable...
            '79 XS11 F
            Stock except K&N

            '79 XS11 SF
            Stock, no title.

            '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
            GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

            "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by WMarshy View Post
              Leave the cable hooked up and once your ready to take the cover off give the clutch handle a light squeeze and the cover will pop right off. Then you can unhook the cable...
              OK, now YOU are a smart man! What a great shortcut!! No battle with the cover stuck on there. Hmmm, I like travelling with guys like you; alternate thinkers. See stuff in a different light.
              Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.

              Comment


              • #8
                If you do nto want to drain the oil, you can lean the bike on the side stand and the oil level will drop below the cover edge letting you remove the clutch cover without draining the oil.
                Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                Previously owned
                93 GSX600F
                80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                81 XS1100 Special
                81 CB750 C
                80 CB750 C
                78 XS750

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by DGXSER View Post
                  If you do nto want to drain the oil, you can lean the bike on the side stand and the oil level will drop below the cover edge letting you remove the clutch cover without draining the oil.
                  +1. No need to drain the oil. I always use a piece of 2X4 and a hammer to knock the cover loose. I have to hit it from all directions to break the seal from the RTV. No way the clutch would have enough strength to pull it off of mine by itself.
                  1980 XS850SG - Sold
                  1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                  Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                  Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                  Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                  -H. Ford

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by CatatonicBug View Post
                    +1. No need to drain the oil. I always use a piece of 2X4 and a hammer to knock the cover loose. I have to hit it from all directions to break the seal from the RTV. No way the clutch would have enough strength to pull it off of mine by itself.
                    Hmmmm, forgot about a new gasket that will be needed. Anybody just use RTV and dispense with a gasket? By the time my local dealer (20 miles away) gets one in, I'll be dead of old age.
                    Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      I use "The Right Stuff" and leave the gasket out completely. Never failed yet.
                      2-79 XS1100 SF
                      2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
                      80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
                      Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I've quit worrying about gaskets too and use Yamabond...
                        Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                        '78E original owner - resto project
                        '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                        '82 XJ rebuild project
                        '80SG restified, red SOLD
                        '79F parts...
                        '81H more parts...

                        Other current bikes:
                        '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                        '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                        '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                        Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                        Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Yep. No gaskets are needed anywhere on the bike except the Head, exhaust and float bowls. ALL other gaskets can be replaced with your favorite RTV. I too prefer "The Right Stuff". Comes pressurized in a can, and applies in a nice clean bead.
                          1980 XS850SG - Sold
                          1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
                          Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
                          Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).

                          Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
                          -H. Ford

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Agreed, I use to cut paper gaskets for the covers, but I found especially on the shift cover I always got a small leak. So I went to just black RTV on all of them. I put it on the engine flange, makes it less messy moving the cover into place.
                            Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                            When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                            81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                            80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                            Previously owned
                            93 GSX600F
                            80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                            81 XS1100 Special
                            81 CB750 C
                            80 CB750 C
                            78 XS750

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Courtney View Post
                              Hmmm, I like travelling with guys like you; alternate thinkers. See stuff in a different light.
                              Hey Courtney,

                              Yeah, unlike XSPLUS2, we actually "like" talking about motorcycles here!

                              Yeah, I actually cut my own gaskets, but that was many years ago. I'm going to be going into my valve cover "sometime" in the near future, so I'll be getting some Yamabond/Threebond stuff to put it back on. The gasket for that is available from PNM for like $10.00, but even that can leak!

                              BTW, since you're going this far, when was the last time you replaced your clutch springs?! If it's been a few years or more, you might want to replace them to reduce the chance of slippage in the future. I installed OEM style HD grade springs in mine, and just after a few years, they were SPRUNG and I started experiencing slipping. That's when I did the extra steel plate mod, but most folks are just getting the Barnett springs, much more robust than either OEM as well as what are called Heavy Duty!

                              T.C.
                              T. C. Gresham
                              81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                              79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                              History shows again and again,
                              How nature points out the folly of men!

                              Comment

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