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    i have been thinking about seeing if i could put an electronic fuel shut off valves on my bike, to where the valve is only open when the key is turned on. i have forgotten to shut off the petcocks a few times (as i know many of us have), and figured that this might help to remedy this problem. also what would be the best way to wire it so that it came on when the key was on and off when the key is off. any thoughts, comments, and advice would help. i have done a little research and found some the i think will work http://www.dan-marc.com/79-afc11112.html , but wanted to get you guys thoughts. thanks in advance
    xs1100 hartail bobber

    http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...-38-36_563.jpg

  • #2
    Seems simple enough. Cool idea.
    1979 XS1100 Special. Nicely modified.
    1977 KZ1000 needs everything!
    1971 CB750 Nice Restomod Completed
    1972 CB750 Got it going after 30 years. Getting turned into a old school bobber. Working on a title.

    SOLD-1981 XS1100H What got me on this site.
    1980ish virago 535. Room mate left it for rent money. lol.
    1980 XS850 almost stock 20k miles.
    1979 XS750 Parts bike no title.
    1979 XS750 Cafe running,someone else can enjoy it.
    RIP-1980 XS850

    Comment


    • #3
      Real bikers aren't afraid to touch their petcock in public! I frequently talk about the size and flow rate of my petcock in hopes of impressing females...

      Comment


      • #4
        Those of us that have vacuum controlled ones know that our petcocks only flow when suction is applied!
        Hi, my name is George & I'm a twisty addict!

        80G (Green paint(PO idea))
        The Green Monster
        K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, '81 oil cooler, TC's homemade 4-2 w/Mac Mufflers, Raptor 660 ACCT
        Got him in '04.
        bald tire & borrowing parts

        80SG (Black w/red emblems & calipers)
        Scarlet
        K&N A/F, TC's fuse block, WJ5, Shoei bags, Raptor 660 ACCT.
        Got her in '11
        Ready for the twisties!

        81H (previously CPMaynard's)
        Hugo
        Full Venturer, Indigo Blue with B/W painted tank.
        Cold weather ride

        Comment


        • #5
          what have i started.
          xs1100 hartail bobber

          http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...-38-36_563.jpg

          Comment


          • #6
            the petcocks would still be used, but this is just a safety measure to ensure that it is off. and i didnt know that i was going to start the bad pun thread, pretty funny though.
            xs1100 hartail bobber

            http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...-38-36_563.jpg

            Comment


            • #7
              Very cool idea. Will be interested to see how it works out. I would definately swap out my vacuums for that. Even after properly rebuilding they started to seep a little.
              Nate

              78 XS11 "Matilda" 2H7 000364

              2001 Raptor ACCT, T.C. Fuse Box, TC Bros Forward Controls
              Kuryakyn Iso Grips/Throttleboss/Bar End Mirror, Custom Covered Seat
              Shinko 712s, HID Headlight, RC Performance Exhaust
              Bikemaster Daytona Handlebars, Galfer SS Brake Lines
              Barnett HD Clutch Springs, T.C. Spin On Filter Adapter
              K+N Air Filter

              88 Voyager XII
              81 XJ650 Maxim

              Comment


              • #8
                That is a cool little part and a good idea.

                How to wire it, I would look at splicing into the tan wire going to the voltage regulator/rectifier. That is powered on when the key is on only. And it is close to the right area of the bike. You could simply pop the wire connector out and either replace it with one you add the positive wire for your fuel valve to, or add your fuel valve wire to the existing connector. I would plan to replace it as you will most likely tear up the original getting it open to accept the new wire. The ground wire could go to the frame screw off the voltage regulator with the other grounds under there.

                HTH
                Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                Previously owned
                93 GSX600F
                80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                81 XS1100 Special
                81 CB750 C
                80 CB750 C
                78 XS750

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for the link, I just ordered one, I've been wanting to get something automatic since I pulled the octy off.

                  I'll let you know how it works out.

                  Guy

                  Originally posted by Nightengale View Post
                  i have been thinking about seeing if i could put an electronic fuel shut off valves on my bike, to where the valve is only open when the key is turned on. i have forgotten to shut off the petcocks a few times (as i know many of us have), and figured that this might help to remedy this problem. also what would be the best way to wire it so that it came on when the key was on and off when the key is off. any thoughts, comments, and advice would help. i have done a little research and found some the i think will work http://www.dan-marc.com/79-afc11112.html , but wanted to get you guys thoughts. thanks in advance
                  Guy

                  1980 XS1100G - Frankenstein - resurrected from the impound lot
                  1991 Suzuki GS500E (not running yet)
                  2003 Burgman AN400 - Blue Belle
                  2005 Burgman AN400 - Silver Belle

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Forgetting to turn off the fuel is exactly why I've retained the octy on my Specials. I like the idea of an electric valve though as long as it won't draw much from an already weak charging system.
                    Greg

                    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                    ― Albert Einstein

                    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                    The list changes.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      from what i read it will only draw .75 amps. which doesnt seem like very much to me but i am not an electrical guru. so that is why i posted the question here so that the gurus could help with some advice. i wasnt sure if anyone else had tried this, but it seems like a pretty good idea to me. because the is nothing like that oh **** feeling you get when you go to your bike and realize that you left the petcocks on.
                      xs1100 hartail bobber

                      http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...-38-36_563.jpg

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        0.75 amps at 12 volts is only 9 watts.

                        I just checked the manual, it shows the tail light uses 2 - 8 watt light bulbs (27 watts when braking) to give you an idea of how much power the valve will draw.

                        I've swapped my tail light for an LED unit, so I'm already ahead of the power curve so to speak...
                        Guy

                        1980 XS1100G - Frankenstein - resurrected from the impound lot
                        1991 Suzuki GS500E (not running yet)
                        2003 Burgman AN400 - Blue Belle
                        2005 Burgman AN400 - Silver Belle

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have led lights on my bike as well.
                          xs1100 hartail bobber

                          http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...-38-36_563.jpg

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            That is a good new way to get off . However it has exposed many XS1100 guys as worring too much about a new way to get off when there are tried and proven economical ways. Steve came up with a mod some time back that creates a mechanical off in the petcock. They make little plastic off/on inline mechanical switches that do the same.

                            The real issues are the carbs having issues and adjustment is part of it. Filters in the lines also will help keep trash out. Additives that counteract the effects of methanol and reduce rust in tanks as well as water also prevent the floats sticking. Other issues are leaving the bike idling in the sidestand or for some leaving it parked on the side stand where the float slides over and hangs open. There is also doing a good job rebuilding the petcocks with a good quality kit.

                            Personally I would rather not have an electrical device near my gas but what ever it takes to get you off I wish you success.

                            Me I just want the weather to turn so I can get on and ride!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I never have petcock problems while riding
                            To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

                            Rodan
                            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
                            1980 G Silverbird
                            Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
                            1198 Overbore kit
                            Grizzly 660 ACCT
                            Barnett Clutch Springs
                            R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
                            122.5 Main Jets
                            ACCT Mod
                            Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
                            Antivibe Bar ends
                            Rear trunk add-on
                            http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Nightengale View Post
                              i have done a little research and found some the i think will work http://www.dan-marc.com/79-afc11112.html , but wanted to get you guys thoughts. thanks in advance

                              My turn to play the Grinch.

                              With an orifice of .156, slightly larger than 1/8 of an inch, and having only about a foot of head pressure, (ignore the sex maniacs response to THAT,) if you try to feed both sets of two carbs through one valve, you may run into an adequate fuel flow problem.
                              A valve for each set of two carbs would help.
                              At any rate, a fuel flow test before test ride would be in order, and over size fuel lines before and after the valve wouldn't hurt.
                              Assume a fuel use of .5 lbs/hr/HP, and lets be real generous and say 100 HP, (hoping that none of our Northern neighbors call us on that "guesstamate",) it seems that we need at least 50 lbs an hour to run full bore. At 6.25 lbs a gallon, you would need 8 gallons an hour. Divide by 60 minutes, you get .13 gallons a minute. With 128 ounces in a gallon, multiplied by .13, we get 17 ounces a minute, or lets round off to two cups, or one pint, (to make it a recognizable quantity to our British members,) a minute.
                              Now this is at full bore, and if you never exceed half throttle, you could get by with less flow, but if your fuel mileage isn't up to snuff, and it is a hot day, fighting a severe head wind on a 10% uphill grade, towing a trailer, and your two hundred pound sweety riding pillion, you might be in trouble.
                              Let us know how it flows.



                              Now back to your usually optimistic cohorts.
                              It is still snowing.
                              CZ

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