Reading old evaluations of Partnmore and spotted their ignition switch.

[Courtney]

I was surprised to see that others had the problem with an incorrect ignition switch for 80 - up 4 wire switches. I too had no tail lights when using this "OEM" style switch. TC, you mentioned you combined the old switch and new switch to make one that worked. Did you ever figure out the wiring prob with these? I found out if I made a jumper and jumped two of the connectors I then had rear lights, but as per usual, I didn't write it down, and in installing my special headlight, the jumper fell off. Now I have to go figure it all out again. &*^&%!!!!! Any clue as to what 2 I might have jumped successfully?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Courtney,

Sorry, but what you found was my only fix attempt, and I still have the combined switch on my bike, still working fine, but I have no idea about what wires would be what. Steve has posted replies to the wiring layout of the main switch before, describing what wire does what, but that was for the OEM switch.

Here's a large photo of the switch from the PNM site, maybe Steve can tell by the plug shape and colors!?



T.C.

[Courtney]

Not to worry TC, I remember that the wires were either on the left or right of the connector, not side to side if that makes any sense. I'll do some wire checking myself, I figure worse case is I blow a fuse.

[bikerphil]

Red gets power from the main fuse, brown feeds power to the harness when key is turned on, blue supplies power to the rear running/tail light when key is turned on. The fourth optional wire red/yel is for the 80-81 hazards, runs to the seperate hazard flasher.

[Courtney]

Red gets power from the main fuse, brown feeds power to the harness when key is turned on, blue supplies power to the rear running/tail light when key is turned on. The fourth optional wire red/yel is for the 80-81 hazards, runs to the seperate hazard flasher.

That makes sense then, I prob jumped the brown to the blue. I will try this in the morning and see what happens.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Phil,

Thanks for that. Courtney, what I wasn't impressed with was the THICKNESS/Gauge of the wires. That's another reason why I didn't want to use the actual innards, I kept the old parts, and put them into the new switch housing. If I were going to keep the entire switch, I would solder larger guage wires onto the switch!

T.C.

[DGXSER]

Courtney,

HERE is a link to a good breakdown of what is inside the switch. As Phil indicated the difference in the three and four wire switches is the hazard wiring or red/yellow wire. If the contact points on the side with the wires is good, you can always take that piece out of your switch and put it in the new switch. Honestly your switch will probably work great if it is cleaned up.

[Courtney]

Thanks DGX and TC, good info. I might still do that, although I've run the switch for 3 yrs with no problems. Like I say, it didn't activate my taillight and I jumped the wires, but it is so long ago, I can't remember which I jumped. I suffer from CRS, (can't remember sh*t) apprently a requirement for a guy in his 60th year.
I replaced the switch originally because a local punk decided to steal my bike and used a screwdriver on the ignition switch. Luckily for me, and not luckily for him, I put the word out on the street about how unhappy I was. Having worked with "challenging" kids over the last 20 yrs in education, I knew most of the miscreants around here. Some had become members of a well known bike club with initials H.A. Magically, my bike reappeared a few days later about 100 yards down my street just parked on the side of the road. A neighbor phoned me and said "Why is your bike down here in front of my place?" I know this sounds like BS but it's a true story. I guess those kids I taught through the years liked me. Probably because I used to bring engines and crap into my class and show them how stuff worked.