Stuck Clutch Plates

[conquest87tsi]

So a couple months back I purchased a '79 F and am in the tail end of my restoration. Just waiting on painting the tins. When I bought the bike I noticed that the clutch did nothing. The bike had sat for up to two years and had next to no oil in it. The previous owner also said he replaced the clutch, which has me a bit worried.

Yesterday I mounted my carbs back onto my '79 SF and for some reason decided to check my clutch and surprise surprise my clutch is stuck as well. The bike has only sat since September. I can understand the plate seizing after sitting for two years without oil, but between riding seasons with fresh oil.

I have adjusted both clutches per the manual. I am wondering what are some techniques used to release the clutch plates. Is it common for them to become stuck in 6 months? I am just hoping I don't have to remove the clutch engine cover again.

[bikerphil]

I usually start the engine in neutral, get on the bike ready to ride with nothing in front of you and dump the shifter into 1st gear. The bike will lurch forward but that is usually all it takes to break them free. Repeat if necessary.

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

I usually start the engine in neutral, get on the bike ready to ride with nothing in front of you and dump the shifter into 1st gear. The bike will lurch forward but that is usually all it takes to break them free. Repeat if necessary.

+1 as always with Phil's info I don't ride my bike that much anymore, so it will sit months sometimes, and stick also. If you have the 2 to 3 mm or less play in the clutch leaver and can feel good clutch spring pull on it, then the pressure plate is moving but some of the plates are sticking. Like Phil said, start in neutral, warm up till idle drops, pull in clutch all the way, point in a safe direction ready to ride and kick it into 1st like a russian tractor Don't forget the kill switch if need be Good luck

[Rasputin]

I would like you to also check how freely the clutch cable moves in its housing. I once replaced a clutch due to lack of lubrication of the cable itself. Worth a quick check just to insure that your problem is where you think it is.

[conquest87tsi]

Rasputin,
Both cables move pretty freely, however I have not lubed them at all. I should probably do that. What do you guys recommend to oil a clutch cable? Just shoot some PB in ther

[conquest87tsi]

Oh and I do feel a good "release" from the pressure plate when the clutch is pulled. However the F has a much stiffer pull. Id say like 25lbs at least. (I tested my forearm strength at work on a load cell, 95lbs! Haven't calibrated my forearm recently though)

I did adjust the F's cable pretty tight and also the clutch at the housing. One thing to mention is that when adjusting the clutch(the philips head bolt). I was able to bottom it out on my SF and then back it off a bit, but on the F I could turn it in all the way. Anyone ever have that happen?

[XS1100_OEM4ME]

9 bucks

Rasputin,
Both cables move pretty freely, however I have not lubed them at all. I should probably do that. What do you guys recommend to oil a clutch cable? Just shoot some PB in ther

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BikeMaster-Motorcycle-Cable-Luber-Tool-Maintenance-/150467641995?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%252BFICS%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D330865881034%26ps%3D54

[ManagerMike]

Seldom will you ever find any wet clutch that will not seize after storage regardless of how old the plates are. Only the newest bikes (with new steels as well as frictions) have an outside shot at not being locked up after a seasonal storage.
As stated before, start it, get it to idle off choke (enrichment) pull the clutch lever and pop it into gear. It will likely take several attempts before it won't stall the engine, but once it does, ride it and be soft on the clutch while hard on the throttle. This is known as "burnishing". Not unlike breaking in new or long unused brake pads.

[WMarshy]

Before you go dropping it in gear you can try other things. If you can, start the bike and get it up to operating temperature. Pull the clutchside handke repeatedly while it is warming up. With it pulled in blip the throttle. Shut the bike off, put it in gear pull the clutch and rock the bike back and forth to see if they free up. If all else fails, try starting the bike in gear with the clutch pulled in. Just bump the button to see if its going to let go. I like to bump it with the starter rather than dropping it into gear while running, just easier on the ol'girl... GL

[buffalo]

I had one years ago that the clutch would stick if it sat for a few weeks, especially in damp weather. I would warm it up in neutral, shut it off, drop it in first and start it holding the clutch in. Then while still holding the clutch in goose it. It usually popped free the first or second try. Make sure you have lots of run off room in case it doesn't pop free.

[ViperRon]

My bike had been torn appart sitting for many years and when I first started it up they broke loose fine but latter give me problems several times sticking shuttering adjustment needing to be changed and I felt my clutch had destroyed its self. I took it appart to find it full of rust on plates and in the fiber disks. I cleaned the fibers with small steel brush and carb cleaner and sanded the disks and no more problems with drag or shutter etc. I did end up getting barnett springs to stop slip. If the problem continues take it appart and clean it before you start buying parts.

[conquest87tsi]

I did actually remove the clutch pack on the F and it wasn't rusty at all. Haven't physically looked at the SF clutch, but road it all summer and has oil in it. Thank you for all the advise guys. Unfortunetly it may be a while until it is warm enough to try it out.

[Geezer]

Warm it up in neutral, kill the engine, put it in top gear, hold in the lever and rock the bike for and aft. It should break free PDQ.

The cheap and easy way to lube a cable is: remove it from the lever, insert the end into a zip lock baggie that the corner has been snipped off. Wrap a rubber-band around it to seal the cable to the baggie, then pour in an ounce or so of whatever motor oil you have on hand. hang it up and let sit until oil runs out the bottom.

I've had a few clutch cables that would barely move and injecting or gravity feeding oil wouldn't do anything. On these I figured they were useless as is and I couldn't make them worse so with the gravity feed bag of oil on top, I spun the cable from the bottom with a drill motor while working it up and down. Surprisingly I didn't break the cable but all sorts of gunk washed out when the oil started flowing again...

If you have a cable that the plastic is gone from the housing letting dirt in. Remove the rest of the plastic and cover the housing with heat shrink tube. This will make an ugly looking old cable look like new for about a buck.

Tony

[mack]

I'm surprised

how often this comes up. Wet clutch i guess. Anyway the method I use is pretty simple. Start the bike, warm it up in neutral, give it a push and jump on then drop it into first. That will get you going. Give it a shot of gas and pull in the clutch lever and slam on the rear brake. That should break it free but it may still be a bit sticky. Ride it a bit slip clutching. Before you park it and shut it off, hold the clutch lever in for a bit to lube it good so you don't have to push again for the next ride.

[skids]

Once you free it a bit (or before), you might want to consider adjusting the clutch on the "tight side" which actually loosens the pressure on the plates. Turn the screw until you feel resistance and then do not turn it backwards as you normally would. This will help to stop "creep" at stoplights and "sticktion" while trying to put in 1st gear. You really do not want to damage the dogs and slots in the tranny. I would carry some wrenches to adjust it properly in case it really loosens up on the road. Feathering the clutch in and out whhile stopped and in gear will help smooth out the action...