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long way from its heart, fill it in with JB Weld.... remove the screw put a light coat of oil on it and put it back in, patch broken area with the JB, don't mess with it until it sets up then the oil should allow the screw to be removed... if you're good you can make a form with masking tape to match the case profile if not you can file/sand the JB down later... other way is to remove screw and fill but then you have to drill and tap threads (see you're acrossed the pond do you have JB weld over there? or equivalent)
I think that sucks, but you can still keep riding. That's the timing cover, and since there is no oil behind it, you don't really need to worry about a perfect seal. The other bolts on the cover will keep it in place just fine.
1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).
Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. Ford
I have a similar situation on the alternator cover of my SH. I have been thinking of repairing it with JB Weld or similar for years, about 7,000 miles of riding now. Still have not gotten that round-to-it. Runs fine as is.
Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
If you still have the piece that broke off just glue it back on with JB Weld or an equivalent. Just be wary of torqueing it too tight.
It's primarily a cosmetic repair.
1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)
Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.
Hi Pete,
what did that is replacing the stock fastener with a stainless fastener that's too long so it bottomed out and bust the casting. Check all the other fasteners for length before it's too late.
And nah, you are merely aesthetically challenged.
Like the 'Bug sez, that cover only keeps the dust out.
What I'd do if I couldn't stand to look at the broken area is cut the casting away so the damage don't show, cut the cover to match and give the area a good polish.
JB Weld that I have used in the past will soften if the temperature get too high. It probably wouldnt be an issue at that location though...maybe. That is what I would try. What about that liquid weld stuff?
Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
I've used their Steel products to repair a headlight housing on an old car, it was the popup type of housing, worked great, held up just fine. Cures much faster than JB Weld, and with particles of aluminum mixed in it, it's pretty strong!
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case! History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
JB Weld that I have used in the past will soften if the temperature get too high. It probably wouldnt be an issue at that location though...maybe. That is what I would try. What about that liquid weld stuff?
JB is good to over 500 degrees, so that leaves out your exhaust pipes and the combustion chambers anything else getting that hot on your bike would be its own problem... JB has steel powder in it
where are we going, and why are we in this hand basket?
Iowa the Beautiful Land 1980 XS1100SG
Intro I had the same issue at one point in another engine.....I used the aluminum product as TC pointed out, only thing I can add is that I drilled a few holes in the casing with a 1 MM drill bit to allow the aluminum to anchor better........good luck
Bruce Doucette
78XS1100 still out there and running strong!
If you know or can find a good welder - one who can weld aluminum (heliarc), that is another way to repair the case. Weld are can be reshaped after completion. Would drain oil prior to weld.
MP
1981 XS1100H Venturer K&N Air Filter ACCT Custom Paint by Deitz Geezer Rectifier/Regulator Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers Stebel Nautilus Horn EBC Front Rotors Limie Accent Moves On In 2015
If you know or can find a good welder - one who can weld aluminum (heliarc), that is another way to repair the case. Weld are can be reshaped after completion. Would drain oil prior to weld.
Sorry, but I've welded an old XS case, and it's NOT going to work as well as the stuff TC shows. The oil in the casting keeps the weld from being clean, and there is NO WAY to get the oil out. I used a TIG, AC, for welding on Special Eds left rear motor mount. It worked, but was NOT pretty. JMHO
Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
If you know or can find a good welder - one who can weld aluminum (heliarc), that is another way to repair the case. Weld are can be reshaped after completion. Would drain oil prior to weld.
Hi Mike,
removing the oil is only the first step. Next, dismantle the engine to the bare casting and put the casting through an industrial trichloroethylene vapor degreasing tank.
Welding only works on aluminum castings if they are really, really clean.
Fred Hill, S'toon
XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
"The Flying Pumpkin"
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