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  • #31
    The splices/connectors between the flexible wires at the pickup coils and the hard wires that run up the frame. The insulation on the neutral wire will deteriorate over time and the water will cause a short.

    I have several old harnesses out in the garage. I'll see if I can come up with a good pic for an example.
    Last edited by BA80; 01-22-2013, 09:44 PM.
    Greg

    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

    ― Albert Einstein

    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

    The list changes.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by Schming View Post
      What is exactly inside the sheathing down by the shifter that seems to be the problem area ?
      The factory used a super-flexible silicon-insulated wire coming off the pick-up coils, then converted to 'standard' wire after exiting the ignition cover. The insulation on the splices can fail over time, plus the heat from the motor bakes the plastic wire insulation and it can develop cracks.
      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

      '78E original owner - resto project
      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
      '82 XJ rebuild project
      '80SG restified, red SOLD
      '79F parts...
      '81H more parts...

      Other current bikes:
      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
      Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

      Comment


      • #33
        I see.
        Thank you both for the explanation.
        Would it be best to just remove the neutral switch wire and replace it in its own sheathing separate of the lower PU coil splices and take it out of the upper plug as Barnfresh has done ?
        1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
        1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
        1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
        1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
        1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

        Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by Schming View Post
          I see.
          Thank you both for the explanation.
          Would it be best to just remove the neutral switch wire and replace it in its own sheathing separate of the lower PU coil splices and take it out of the upper plug as Barnfresh has done ?
          Yes, I do beleive said procedure will yield the utmost stellar results in eliminating shunts between the neutral switch feed wire and the pickup coil wire splices.

          With that said, here's what I did:

          Located pickup coil/neutral wire harness plug that resides behind fuse panel and removed neutral wire from plug



          Stripped away sheathing



          Cut lower connector off neutral wire and pulled wire out of sheathing and stripped the rest of the sheathing off



          Marked and removed pickup wires from plug











          Pickup coil wire splices are protected by a silicone? sheathing





          I fruitlessly looked around town for sheathing and resorted to what I had at hand in the Mancave, 12-3 WG non-metallic sheathed cable. Not sure how long it will last but I'm keeping an eye open for a qualified replacement



          Fished pickup wires through



          Used an extra gear shift rubber to seal at case entry





          Original grommet was too small



          Used a spark plug boot, marine heat shrink and a dob of clear silicone sealer to seal plug end and refitted plug. Notice NO neutral wire in plug





          For the neutral wire I sourced this test lead and spark plug boot from my wire stash



          Used both and a piece of vacuum hose to waterproof the switch



          Fits snuggly over the switch



          Little blurry but used marine heat shrink on vacuum tube sleeve and test lead



          Crimped a new male end on up at fuse panel, connected and marine heat shrink





          Tucked away neatly





          Thanxs for all the questions answered to help me decide to eliminate another known SHORTcoming of our illustrious ElecTrickal system
          1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
          1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
          1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
          1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
          1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

          Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

          Comment


          • #35
            Geeze!
            You old farts know ALL the neat tricks.
            Nice fix.
            Hope the young whipper snappers are paying attention. Boy, when I was their age, I was to poor to pay attention. They don't know how good they have it.
            Could a person just plug the neutral switch wires back together after you take them out of the connector, and put some shrink wrap around them to keep them clean? You could cut the shrink wrap off if you needed to service anything, and put new back on when done?

            It's still snowing, CZ

            Comment


            • #36
              That a nice lookin motor.
              "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

              Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

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              • #37
                Ooop's,
                The vision is right after the hearing when the senses start to go in us old farts.
                I just saw the shrink wrap on the blue wire connection. Maybe I can think of some other dumb question to ask.

                CZ

                Comment


                • #38
                  Originally posted by Yard Dogg View Post
                  That a nice lookin motor.
                  Thanxs! Its been apart in my garage for 11 years so I had time here and there to clean, paint and polish but now I'm anxious to "git sum dirt" on her.

                  Originally posted by CaptonZap View Post
                  Ooop's,
                  The vision is right after the hearing when the senses start to go in us old farts.
                  I just saw the shrink wrap on the blue wire connection. Maybe I can think of some other dumb question to ask.

                  CZ
                  Yes, this I know. Just when I get some time, money and the garage almost the way I want it, I can't see what the heck I'm doin'. I turn on ten 2 bulb flourescents, a 300 watt halogen above the vise, 2 more 300 watt halogens on a portable work lamp and I still gotta wear an LED headlamp

                  Now that the neutral wire is isolated, I don't see any reason to disturb the upper connection. Easy enough to unscrew it from the switch and feed it up outta there if necessary.
                  1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
                  1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
                  1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
                  1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
                  1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

                  Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    thanks yall completely solved my problem never wouldve though to redo the neutral wire
                    1979 XS1100 "STUPID IS AS STUPID DOES"

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      bike dies when droped in gear runs good in nutral

                      biker phil, has your problem for you. had same problem.

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        The way I repaired mine (sort of) on both my XS's is the same. First, I eliminated the leaky oil dripping neutral switch and put a bolt in it's place, I have no need for the light. Then I wrapped the harness in 33+ electrical tape and siliconed the area where it runs into the ignition cover. The neutral wire I just left hanging out of the harness near the engine in case it ever needs grounding to the case. No problems so far, did this about 2 years ago. I just have to remind anyone riding my bike that there is no neutral light.
                        2H7 (79) owned since '89
                        3H3 owned since '06

                        "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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