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This is a fellow that bought and tested all the HF spray guns and discusses them. I found it VERY enlightening because when I'm in HF, I basically go into a buzz trying to figure out which is which for spraying.
All these are full-size guns, and are IMHO too large for easily painting a bike. Here what I use: http://www.harborfreight.com/profess...kit-94572.html Best of both worlds; you get the full-size gun for the bigger jobs, but that detail gun is near-perfect for bikes. Much nicer control, doesn't lay too much paint down, I love mine.
If you're painting a fairing, bags, trunk the larger gun will be better, but the detail gun does a much nicer job on smaller parts and for getting into confined spots.
These don't come with regulators, it's well worth the $$ to get and add one to each gun.
I've already got the full size 66222, and the cheaper 67181, so I'm going to go with one of those. Now that I'm retired, I have time to play. I've also been researching the Rustoleum paint threads, thinned with paint thinner through a gun. VERY interesting if you're on a budget like me. For 15 dollars I've got enough paint to paint about 3 bikes. Don't really care if it's perfect, but looking at what some people on Youtube have done, it's pretty amazing. Time to experiment!
Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.
I have a 1.4 mm spray gun from harbor freight. I was happy with it. It seemed to lay it out as thin as I needed. I haven't heard of thinning out the rustoleum paint, but there are some rustoleum products that I will not touch with a pole. I like their rust reformer, and engine enamel, but I will not use their paints or clearcoats. I don't know which type of paint your talking about, but I used some rustoleum rattle can paint and clear on my last bike. It was the automotive stuff supposedly resistant to oil and gas. Well BS, that clear coat set up for over 1 month in 90 degree weather so it should have been cured. The first time I filled the bike I spilled gas and it ate the clear off immediately, the paint under it suffered too but not so bad. Now, I only buy urethane paints. Here's a link to some cheap urethane I'm looking to buy for my bike. Real painters might say not to use it, but if I get 5 years out of it, I'll be about ready for a new color anyway, so it works out. This is the Kirker brand, there are more colors on this site to choose from, and clear coats.
"The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.
yeah, after reading more on the subject, maybe I'm just begging for it using Rustoleum on the tank. This is just the can of gloss black rust paint. Inevitably I'm going to drip gas on it. Hmmm, wonder if anyone else has a clearcoat that is compatible and gas proof?
Bone stock 1980 Special except for the exhaust and crashbars. Oh yeah, and the scabbard for the Winchester Defender.
Sorry if I bursted your bubble, I always warn people away from the rustoleum paint especially on bikes due to my own experience. Not to mention it's a very soft paint. Everytime I washed it I had to buff it again to get the luster back which only lasted a few days.
"The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.
Rustoleum as a base color and then a gas resistent clear coat works great. That's what I have and have had gas spills and never had an issue.
Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Well, you can't just say that and not TELL us!! what you used!
I have used lots of different clear coats. Name any automotive grade clear and I have probably used it. Nason (like what Phil has a pic of there) is probably the one I use the most and have on my bike right now.
Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Nathan did you let the Rustoleum base coat cure any particular length of time to avoid having the clear lift or dissolve the base?
scoot
Nope, just let it dry till I could wetsand, recoat if needed and repeat as necessary. After the last wetsand and cleaning shoot the clear.
Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters Green Monster Coils SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
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