Valve adjustment question

[LoHo]

I am reading Crazy Steve's pictorial procedure to reduce my chance of errors, and I noticed that he sets the crank to "T" before he pulls the CCT. I think the only problem that creates is that there is slightly uneven tension on the cams, and the "C" is for adjusting the old locking CCT...is that correct? It is okay to pull the CCT at "T"? Do I turn the crank to "C" to replace the CCT? I have a racheting one now, which makes me think it will extend to maintain tension at whichever point the cam chain has the least tension.

[bikerphil]

It is okay to pull the CCT at "T"? Do I turn the crank to "C" to replace the CCT?

I would say it would be fine to remove the tensioner at the T mark if you have your valve cover off so you can keep an eye on the timing marks. If your valve cover is on, I would use the C mark, make sure the bike is on the centerstand either way. Never rotate the engine without the tensioner installed!

[DGXSER]

Never rotate the engine without the tensioner installed!

Maybe this is a misprint in the Clymers manual. I recently was going through the valves in the SG I am working on, and followed the Clymers manual on removing and installing the cams. The manual states to put the timing mark on the T, then remove one of the bolts on the cam sprockets, then remove the CCT, then rotate the engine so the cams turn 180 degrees to remove the bottom bolts of the cam sprockets.

In my case, I made sure to keep tension on the cam chain by using wires wrapped around the frame at the front of the cam chain and the rear of the cam chain, through the chain of course. As I removed the bolts, or the sprockets or the cams I pulled the wires to keep them tight.

Now, I am not saying this is the right way to do it, but it did work for me. And I do nto see how you get both cam sprocket bolts off with the cam chain guide removed if you still have the tensioner in place.

[bikerphil]

Don, yes I see that on pg. 62 of Clymers about rotating the crank with the tensioner off. Pretty risky that way IMO. It doesn't even say to hold your finger against the chain guide to take up the slack.

[DGXSER]

Don't get me wrong Phil, there was a pry bar used to get my shorts out of my crack after doing that. I had visions of pulling the head and all kinds of bad things. But I went on faith that the book had it right. IIRC, I also looked at the Factory Service Manual which gave the same directions.

Anyway, at some point you almost have to rotate the engine with a compromised timing setup. However, I do strongly recommend to take up the slack in the chain the best way you know how to keep it completely on the crank sprocket at all times.

[LoHo]

I have solved the skipped tooth problem in the past by using zip ties to attach the chain to the sprockets. That seems to be enough to keep the chain on the crank, too.

In Steve's write-up, he sets up the cams on the timing marks, then rotates the cams to give access to the sprocket bolts, then rotates again to get access to the original bolts (with timing marks lined up and on the T mark), then he takes the CCT out. That makes sense with the original CCT, and I imagine it doesn't make any difference with the ratcheting CCT.

[motoman]

I have solved the skipped tooth problem in the past by using zip ties to attach the chain to the sprockets. That seems to be enough to keep the chain on the crank, too.

In Steve's write-up, he sets up the cams on the timing marks, then rotates the cams to give access to the sprocket bolts, then rotates again to get access to the original bolts (with timing marks lined up and on the T mark), then he takes the CCT out. That makes sense with the original CCT, and I imagine it doesn't make any difference with the ratcheting CCT.

Understand the paranoia at this point LoHo, but............just put the b**ch on the centerstand, follow procedure like you were adjusting the originall tensioner, remove it and put the auto housing in, then put copper sealing washer and bolt in and tighten............

[IanDMacDonald]

This thread gives me the shakes, lol.

[LoHo]

Hey Brant, make up your mind! On one thread you question my care and attention to detail, and on another you tell me to get on with it already!

I've had this bike apart a couple of times and don't want to do what I often do, as in charging forward when I see the finish line and screwing it up in my haste to succeed. By the way, she lives on her center stand, and that's what I'm trying to change.

[mack]

Cams

Taking the sprockets off isn't the tricky part. Rotate to and undo the bolts then pull the adjuster to get the slack to pull the sprockets off. Getting them on is a bit trickier, once you think you have them on and in time with one bolt installed, put the old tensioner back in , then rotate the motor to T and verify your timing. If it's right, go ahead and install the second set of sprocket bolts. Then rotate a couple turns to the c mark, pull the old adjuster out and install the auto one in. When you lossen the end nut, you should hear it click into the the adjuster plate. If it's a bit loose it will ratchet a notch as soon as you start it. Big thing is to have the cams in time first and I think that is why Steve uses the t mark.

[TADracer]

I do not have a factory manual and as a rule of thumb I have always switched steps from what Clymers says because it just made sense. Plus, I always use the center stand for this.

First I find TDC on #1 compression then I turn away from TDC to expose the two lower bolts and take them out. Then I turn the crank around the rest of the two revolutions until #1 TDC and the top bolts are up and remove those. THEN I take the tensioner out. After that you can take the cams apart without worry and just tie the chain up to the frame. I never worry about the chain coming off of the crank sprocket. Before assembly it is very easy to make sure it is back on.

I use slotted sprockets so each Spring tune-up I have to do a variation of this to check that cam timing is still at my desired settings. I do install my tensioner at TDC and snug the chain. Then I turn the crank around to the C mark and do a final tensioner adjustment. I have always been a bit leary of rotating the motor assembled but with the tensioner out.

[petejw]

as long as the engine is rotated clockwise
then theres no pressure on the cct, its only when
the engine is rotated backwards even slightly that
problems arise.
so if u miss the c mark on the pointer dont rotate the
engine backwards to align it even if its slightly off, ur better
to rotate the engine clockwise and re align again.