elec ?

[650mark]

'80 1100 special. pick up coils: how do you check them? manual says they should show 720 ohms but does not say where to connect a meter. thanks

[crazy steve]

Easiest place to check is at the TCI; unplug the small plug, and check between the blue/gray and orange/gray. This still might not tell you everything you need to know; you still want to check for broken wires at the pickups. But if you get the 720 at the TCI, at least you know the pickups themselves are good. Next place to check is another plug behind the motor. This plug will have one more wire (neutral light), do the same check as above. If you still get 'bad' results, check right at the pickups; you'll have to pierce the wire insulation, but that's the last test.

Bad connections/broken wires on these aren't uncommon, so don't assume the pickups are bad until you've thoroughly checked both....

[MaximPhil]

Hi Mark,
The Pick up Coils need to be gapped as well
Don't ask me how......as I was out getting the BEER when mine were done
Phil

[CaptonZap]

Howdy Steve,

Does the Special have a different coloring scheme than the Standard?
'Cause on my 80 G, the two coils are fed with Y/Green and Y/red for one coil, and W/green and W/red for the other, according to the wiring diagram.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/...1ae5cbd4_o.gif
And since I don't want to spread false rumors, I will go out to the shed, where it is 19 deg above zero, F, and check it to be sure. Greater love hath no man, etc.



(Some time later)
No big thing, the wind wasn't blowing.
OK, the Hanger Queen has colors as specified in that chart.
I think an easier way to look at it is to say the top two connectors of the 4 prong connector are PU coil 2, and the bottom two are PU coil 1.
Since we know that the TCI's are all the same, for that year, I can vouch that the top two are coil 2, and the bottom are coil 1, no matter what the colors are.

Both specified at 720 ohms.

Happy New Year, CZ

[CaptonZap]

Hi Mark,
The Pick up Coils need to be gapped as well
Don't ask me how......as I was out getting the BEER when mine were done
Phil

Well, I can help there, for sure.
For those of us of a certain age group, that played with cars, setting point gap is old hat.
For you youngsters, here's the drill.
Look at the PU coils. There are two screws holding them to the back plate, one on each end of the coil housings. On the end that has the wires coming out of the coil housing, the hole that the screw is in, isnt a hole, but rather, a slot.
Loosen the other end slightly, then loosen the slotted end, and the coil housing can be rotated around the other end, thus changing the gap.
When satisfied, tighten both screws, and you're done.
Note that if they have not been messed with, by the dreaded PO, there is some white witness paint on the screws, indicating that the setting is factory original. If it is in that condition, measure the gap and reset at that distance, after the R&R of the coil.
One other thing, be sure that the reluctor rotor is tightened down before measuring the gap. When you take the timing plate off, it releases the reluctor rotor from the shaft, and it can wobble around. Use an appropriate washer and the original bolt to hold it on, until the setting is complete, at which time the timing plate can be reinstalled.

Again, Happy New Year
CZ

[Lunatic]

Good tip on the gapping. I'm surprised mine have kept running considering I have never set that gap and have changed out the pick up triggers three times. Blind luck saved me again! As for the triggers, none of my failures were actually the triggers, it was always the wire, riiight up near the trigger.