Chrome removal and engine cleaning.

[Yard Dogg]

I was wondering if anyone knows any good ways besides a lot of sandblasting to remove chrome. I want to take the chrome off my front fender so I can paint it when the time comes. My pipes are rusty too so they need something done to them as well. My front end has plenty of chrome and I like the painted fenders better.

Also, I have heard of people using acid in order to clean the oxidation off the aluminum engine parts before painting. I was wondering what type and how to go about using it without damaging everything around it. I can't see any good way to clean between the fins without weeks of scrubbing. The cleaner the better, cause I might even use metal dye instead of paint to give it the anodized look.

[crazy steve]

Trying to remove chrome is either very time-consuming or expensive. If you want to paint over it, I've had good luck by sanding it with 80 or 120 paper using a hand-held jitterbug sander. Shoot 1-2 coats of primer, wet sand, then paint. One caveat; if it starts to peel anywhere, then removal is about your only option. Powdercoat sticks pretty good to chrome with no sanding/stripping also. The exhaust can be cleaned up with chrome polish (with maybe some fine steel wool and one of those stainless 'toothbrushes' for rustier spots), if that won't do it then sandblasting/paint will be best.

If your talking about cleaning between the fins on the head/cylinders, then sandblasting or hand scrubbing will be best. Don't use any caustic or acid as that will attack the metal, and with cast aluminum being somewhat porous, you'll create more problems than you cure. You might try a spray-on 'wheel cleaner' as sometimes those can work, but I personally haven't had much luck. These must be thoroughly flushed off with water.

If black is your color, I've had excellent results by brushing on oil-based enamel for the cylinders/head (spraying the cases). This holds up very well, is easy to touch up, but does require a 'cure' process after putting the motor back in service. More details in this thread.... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...t=build&page=2 I'll note that I prefer using gloss rather than flat or semi-flat. The gloss will dull over time, but the flats can get chalky.

[Yard Dogg]

Nice bike steve! I love how your engine looks. I'm going to do something similar polishing the side covers and valve cover, (probably the forks too, not sure yet) but I'm painting the case black. I wasn't sure if I could get primer to stick to chrome or not. Have you ever heard of metal dye? I've found metal dye kits that makes it just like staining wood. Put it on, wipe off the extra, let it dry. I'm considering that for the engine. Sand blasting would be ideal for almost anything but it's winter and will be miserable. I'll have to set up a booth to recollect my sand cause it's a lot of area to do. Thanks for the tips.

[crazy steve]

Nice bike steve! I love how your engine looks. I'm going to do something similar polishing the side covers and valve cover, (probably the forks too, not sure yet) but I'm painting the case black.

Something like this?.... http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...ht=bike&page=2

If that dye needs bare metal to work, you'll have to sandblast; I don't think you can get all the old paint, baked-on crud, etc off any other way, and maybe not even then. There's lots of nooks and crannies...

I should have clarified the fender better; sand with the 80-120 to scuff the chrome, then primer. The primer will fill the scratches left by the sandpaper, then wet-sand the primer with 220 or 320 before applying final color.

[Yard Dogg]

Hey, that's an XJ motor!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Dogg,

I used one of those nifty 3m black fiber sanding/grinding discs on a drill to scuff up my fenders, went in a few different directions to create a decent crosshatch pattern! Then I applied ETCHING primer, and then the real 2 stage paint and clear coat/hardener. It's held up for several years just fine aside from the little area the front edge where it got blistered because I didn't have the fender set far enough away from the tire surface and a high speed run expanded the tire and rubbed the inside of the fender!

T.C.

[DGXSER]

Back in 2010 when I got Banshee, the chrome on the fenders was pitted and they had overspray of paint on them.

I took some 220 grit sand paper in my palm sander and went over them end to end. Used Rustoleum primer, with Duplicolor black paint and clear coat. Still running on the same paint. Other than the odd rock chip on the fenders, paint is holding up great.

[Yard Dogg]

I can do that. If the wind would ever stop blowing around here I might feel inclined to do something.

[dingman29]

i called the local chrome shop to have the fenders done... over the phone they said to strip the chrome would be about 25 - 30 bucks...

[crazy steve]

i called the local chrome shop to have the fenders done... over the phone they said to strip the chrome would be about 25 - 30 bucks...

That's cheap.....

[Yard Dogg]

I just discovered a friend of a friend that I've met a few times has a sand blasting booth. I'll probably do my cylinder heads and the front fender there. Not sure when though. I need to get off my butt and strip my bike.

[Rasputin]

I use aluminum oxide media in my sand blasting cabinet when doing chrome parts. When the media hits the chrome and blasts it off it leaves a trail like a comet trail. When there is no trail left all the chrome is gone. It is easy to see where you need to concentrate your efforts when blasting that way. When using sand it is hard to see where you have already blasted and you run the risk of removing more than you want to.

[Yard Dogg]

Good tip. Today I finally got off my butt and did something. I rearranged the shed so I could put a picnic table in their for a work bench. Moved the bike out there and have the engine stand ready to go. Tomorrow I will start work. This bike will be a beauty before spring time.

[dingman29]

That's cheap.....

yeah much to my suprise

i also heard a muratic acid bath will strip most of it, but i believe there is a layer of nickel still on the part??... i think the nickel can be sandblasted...

i may try this with the old rusty/damaged gauge cups...

just a thought...

[Yard Dogg]

Muratic acid. That's what a friend of mine was telling me. He said it will eat off the oxidation and I'd be able to paint right after, but to hose it off fast.