80G Pilot Jet buggered, air screw plugs

[GLoweVA]

CZ, that's what I thought, but it'd only balance out the left and right sides, not all 4 together.

[Bonz]

GLoweVA,

Good observation, yes they are "T'd" as you said. The question remains, and it's a good question, that CZ is going cryptic on us to answer...


CZ,

What I think you are saying is the p.o. who spliced the vacuum together for 1/2, 3/4 created the same effect as YICS, which needs to be "blocked" or disabled in order to do a carb sync?

In other words, disconnect the hoses to do the sync, then cap them, other than the 2 supplying vacuum to the petcocks. Nice thing about the SG is the OCTY (oh boy, did I open a can of worms there by calling it "nice"?) so only one vacuum line is needed!

OR does the crossing over of 1/2, 3/4 add an additional margin of "tuning" after the carbs have been properly sync'd, therefore it would be beneficial to hook them back up?

[GLoweVA]

What if we hooked up all 4 together and then had 2 branches off to goto the petcocks?
Then it'd be a true YCIS, wouldn't it?
Would that be a benefit, or worse?

[Bonz]

I have an idea... Heck, let's connect all 4, "T" them into the petcocks and run a "custom" line down and "T" into the vacuum advance line, then it oughta run smooooooooooooothhhhhhhh....

What other lines could we connect in there while we are at it? Might just pick up 12.4 horses and some gas mileage along the way with everything so well balanced....

Ok, back to being serious now...

On this bike, it has an oil pressure sending unit on the back of the engine for the fairing gauges (oil pressure, oil temp). You can see the sending unit in the pics.

1) There is a wire running down to the brass fitting on the end, see pics. What might it's purpose be?

2) There is also a hollow white line running from the sender that was routed around and up into the fairing (see right side pic). The line had some oil in it, so oil is being sent up to one of the gauges in the fairing. This line seems to be made of the same material cars use for their vacuum lines. Acutally, probably is vacuum tubing. Nice and stiff, and cracks upon touching with age. What might it's purpose be?

Thanks for the continued discussion!

[GLoweVA]

I have an idea... Heck, let's connect all 4, "T" them into the petcocks and run a "custom" line down and "T" into the vacuum advance line, then it oughta run smooooooooooooothhhhhhhh....

What other lines could we connect in there while we are at it? Might just pick up 12.4 horses and some gas mileage along the way with everything so well balanced....

Ok, back to being serious now...

On this bike, it has an oil pressure sending unit on the back of the engine for the fairing gauges (oil pressure, oil temp). You can see the sending unit in the pics.

1) There is a wire running down to the brass fitting on the end, see pics. What might it's purpose be?

2) There is also a hollow white line running from the sender that was routed around and up into the fairing (see right side pic). The line had some oil in it, so oil is being sent up to one of the gauges in the fairing. This line seems to be made of the same material cars use for their vacuum lines. Acutally, probably is vacuum tubing. Nice and stiff, and cracks upon touching with age. What might it's purpose be?

Thanks for the continued discussion!

1. oil temp sending unit
2. oil pressure sensing line.
Both were run up to the gauges in the fairing.
I've been looking for an inexpensive oil temp gauge and sending unit for my bike/fairing and in the mod section someone posted up how to mount the tempurature sending unit into the oil pan.

I've been trying to read up on the YICS thing and see if 'balancing' our carbs (78-81) may or may not do anything. It may be worth a try/experiment. My daily commute rides are almost always the same and it'd be a good test run to see if there's any change in mileage/performance with the vac ports tied together or not.

[DGXSER]

1) There is a wire running down to the brass fitting on the end, see pics. What might it's purpose be?

I believe this is the oil temp wire. I do not see where it gets its power from, perhaps at the gage in the fairing.

2) There is also a hollow white line running from the sender that was routed around and up into the fairing (see right side pic). The line had some oil in it, so oil is being sent up to one of the gauges in the fairing. This line seems to be made of the same material cars use for their vacuum lines. Acutally, probably is vacuum tubing. Nice and stiff, and cracks upon touching with age. What might it's purpose be?

What is vacuum but a lack of, or negative, pressure. That would be the oil pressure line, normally just air on there, so some leakage at the sensor for there to be oil in it. It sends a pressure signal to the gage which then indicates the pressure level.

[Bonz]

Thanks guys!

-I gather that the oil sending unit is a pretty standard part (find one at autoparts store?), and needs to be replaced if it is letting oil up into the oil pressure/vacuum line?

-Would there be any cause other than a defective sending unit that would allow some oil up into this line?

[DGXSER]

-I gather that the oil sending unit is a pretty standard part (find one at autoparts store?), and needs to be replaced if it is letting oil up into the oil pressure/vacuum line?

Most likely, look for a model number on it and google that, or just take it with you to the auto parts store and they can probably match it up for you.

-Would there be any cause other than a defective sending unit that would allow some oil up into this line?

Not trying to be a smartazz, just leading you through the thought process. Where is the source for oil to get into the line? The line runs from the sending unit to a gage in your fairing, right? There is no oil source in the fairing, so it has to be coming from the sending unit. The sending unit should simply be a diaphram with air on one side and oil on the other. As the pressure of the oil builds, it pushes harder on the diaphram, compressing the air on the other side, building air pressure that is sent to your gage. So, in order for oil to be in the line, it is getting past the diaphram in some manner.

[GLoweVA]

The pressure unit may not have a diaphram in it. JAT.
It may send oil right up and into the gauge, I've seen some older aftermarket oil gauges that worked that way.

Looking at the pic again, it looks like a standard brass compression fitting.

[Bonz]

What I was trying to say/ask, and didn't do very well, was could it be the way the line is attached to the sending unit that is causing oil to get into it?

Like a collar or whatever is holding the line to the sender is not sealing the line from another part of the sending unit that has oil in it. Thus, not a defective sending unit, but something remedied by taking it off, cleaning whatever mating surfaces exist then putting back together.

Given what GLowe just said, my instinct is now saying on a 33 year old bike, with a line going to a 33 year old fairing with 33 year old gauges, it could be the "old style" that oil runs in the line.

[Bonz]

Ran out of time to edit the last post..

When I got the bike, the oil pressure gauge was working, showing 25-30 psi at lower engine speeds with cold oil.

[GLoweVA]

An oil pressure guage is a nice thing to have, but not really necessary.
I'd like one, but I'd hate to have to disconnect the sending line every time I pulled the fairing off.
At least with an electrical oil temp gauge, it can be wired in thru the fairing pigtail and thus unplugged when it's time to pull the fairing off.
Just my 2 cents.

[Bonz]

My thought is since the fairing has the gauges, it'd be nice to keep them.

GREAT point having to disconnect the pressure line when removing the fairing. One the other hand, how often would I do that, honestly? Me thinks not too often once it's rehab'd and the bike is back in action.

Anyway, stuff to think about, eh?

[Bonz]

Hey CZ, you out there still on this thread?

PM's aren't working, at least from my computer, so wanted to ask you about the splines on the driveshaft/FD interface that you mentioned in your last PM.

I coulda sworn you gave me a detailed explanation and drawing as to why the zerk DID work for getting lube to the splines, and taking it apart was not necessary as had been put forth by many others on the forum?

[CaptonZap]

Hey CZ, you out there still on this thread?

PM's aren't working, at least from my computer, so wanted to ask you about the splines on the driveshaft/FD interface that you mentioned in your last PM.

I coulda sworn you gave me a detailed explanation and drawing as to why the zerk DID work for getting lube to the splines, and taking it apart was not necessary as had been put forth by many others on the forum?

OK, good, that PM got through.
The biggest question is, is there MOLY grease in there. Since this is a NU2U (new to you, hows about that texting talk, ) bike, that is one thing I would not skip. The moly is the big thing, and the oil component of the grease the next big thing. Once you know it's right, then an occasional dollop will do. Moly would be enough by itself, but belt and suspenders is better.
Assume the rear splines have suffered the same maintainence as the cables, and go from there.
The last time I was in Habba Fleight, they had a three pack of the 100 cc tubes of moly grease.
And while you have the grease gun out, the brake arm probably needs some.
Later, CZ