Replacement of fluid lines

[copeland3300]

What should I be using for fluid line replacement? I asked at an auto parts store and then had no idea.
I see that I should probably use Tygon or something like that at 1/4" for fuel.

Is there anything else I should be looking at or are fuel and oil coolers the only ones aside from brakes obviously. I'm going to go SS with those I think.

Which actually brings me to another question: can I just skip the oil cooler all together and just loop from the outlet to the inlet?

[crazy steve]

If you want to remove the cooler, just get the correct oil filter bolt and pull the cooler adaptor off....

http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/yamaha/xs1100/?filters[category]=engine&filters[fitting]=custom

Part #20041

[mr_misfit138]

I see that I should probably use Tygon or something like that at 1/4" for fuel.

I know that everybody loves Tygon, but my experiences with it so far have been less than stellar. It's way more expensive than any other fuel line material, and just looking at it wrong can punch a hole in it. It also seems really kink resistant when it's still new and unused, but once gas starts flowing through it, it softens up and kinks every bit as easily, if not more easily, than anything else. Granted, you results might vary, because my fuel lines have to take quite a few more twists than usual to accommodate the large in-line fuel filters I've got between my airbox boots, but I've been fighting kinks and pin holes so much, I just pulled most my Tygon lines off. The material is excellent at remaining soft with constant fuel exposure, but it didn't work as well as I would have liked in these other aspects. I would say that if you do go with Tygon, do not let it sit anywhere near the boot clamps screws, don't use screw-style hose clamps on it, don't run it with tight turns, and order it from US Plastics. They have the best price on it anywhere, and you can by it in 10' lengths, instead of 25' or 50'.

[mr_misfit138]

I see that I should probably use Tygon or something like that at 1/4" for fuel.

I know that everybody loves Tygon, but my experiences with it so far have been less than stellar. It's way more expensive than any other fuel line material, and just looking at it wrong can punch a hole in it. It also seems really kink resistant when it's still new and unused, but once gas starts flowing through it, it softens up and kinks every bit as easily, if not more easily, than anything else. Granted, you results might vary, because my fuel lines have to take quite a few more twists than usual to accommodate the large in-line fuel filters I've got between my airbox boots, but I've been fighting kinks and pin holes so much, I just pulled most my Tygon lines off. The material is excellent at remaining soft with constant fuel exposure, but it didn't work as well as I would have liked in these other aspects.

I would say that if you do go with Tygon, do not let it sit anywhere near the boot clamps screws, don't use screw-style hose clamps on it, don't run it with tight turns, and order it from US Plastics. They have the best price on it anywhere, and you can by it in 10' lengths, instead of 25' or 50'.

I've also seen it mentioned where some people suggest getting 3/16" instead of 1/4", and stretching it onto the fittings, so that hose clamps aren't necessary, but this is a lot easier said than done. It can work, but if you've got the Octy and in-line filters, you'll have to do it a lot of times, and if you're anything like me, you'll be swearing in frustration the entire time. I'd only suggest this if you're not planning on having to disconnect any of the lines for any reason for quite a long time.

Anyway, that's just my my experience. Others seem to have all had better results than me. Good luck in whatever you do.

[mr_misfit138]

P.S. Sorry for the double post. I accidentally sent it before I was done, and I don't know how to edit after it's posted.

[IanDMacDonald]

What the heck kind of setup do you have that causes kinks? I have in-line filters as well, and it's a pretty simple connection from the petcock to the carb nipple. Just saying . . .

[mr_misfit138]

What the heck kind of setup do you have that causes kinks? I have in-line filters as well, and it's a pretty simple connection from the petcock to the carb nipple. Just saying . . .

The T-connector from my petcock to the Octy and in-line filter always sits in a way where it always kinks somewhere, no matter how long or short I've got the lines. I've gotten to the point where I've had to run from the petcock connection down in between boots 2 and 3, back out around the outside, loop back up around the back side of the petcock, and then forward into the T-connector. Then I don't have any tight turns. I just have to use way more hose to do it. And since my Tygon lines got a pin hole in them from a boot clap screw, I re-ran the lines with run-of-the-mill fuel line from an auto parts store with 1/8" walls instead of the .040"-.050" Tygon wall, so now they should be way more puncture-proof. I hope to be rid of the Octy soon, and I might even ditch the inline filters, so I can simplify this setup. I'm pretty sure I'm more the exception than the rule at the moment.

[MPittma100]

Fuel Hose

You can point the fuel tees between the carbs down and loop the line back up to the filters/petcocks in between the carbs. There is enough room to do this without a kink.

MP

[MPittma100]

Filters

You will be making a mistake if you remove the filters. They need to stay on there. There are small enough filters for the (little) room that is available under the tank and between the carbs. They can be had in 3/16 or 1/4.

MP

[jetmechmarty]

I crossed my lines left side of tank to right carburetor and vice versa. Have octy, filters, and no kinks. Yep, tygon line as well. It does like to kink in a tight turn.

[crazy steve]

If you're having trouble with kinking and don't want to have a big gob of line, find a coil spring that will slip inside the line. No more kink....

Most hardware/auto parts stores will have something.

[CaptonZap]

If you're having trouble with kinking and don't want to have a big gob of line, find a coil spring that will slip inside the line. No more kink....

Most hardware/auto parts stores will have something.

Remember the spring drives on 16mm movie projectors? Just what he needs.
Or a gazillion ball point pen springs end to end.

CZ

[IanDMacDonald]

All I can say is . . . I love my '79F without the octy, lol.

[Eveready1100]

If it's a factory oil cooler setup you're removing, there's no need to buy anything. Simply remove the filter housing, then undo the fitting that bolts the oil cooler adapter to the underside of the sump, then refit the original bolt and filter housing straight back up in position.

Here's a pic of the bits -


And a diagram of how it goes together-


And lastly, a pic of the fitting that holds the adapter -

[MPittma100]

Removing Oil Cooler?

Unless the cooler itself is leaking, taking it off to either have it repaired or to replace it are the only two good reasons to take it off. Can't think of any good resons for leaving it off. If it is a problem with the lines, chances are good that a hydraulic hose shop can make you some new ones while reusing the OEM fittings.

MP