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Adjustment of Shocks

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  • #16
    Originally posted by IanDMacDonald View Post
    Lol, I think I'll just go out there and turn some stuff and go for a ride. Thanks for the guide though.
    Now that's the spirit! CZ

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    • #17
      You should...

      Originally posted by shousey440 View Post
      Increase rear suspension preload is burn rubber; less preload is wheelies. Other than that it's just about ride. Some guys upgrade to aftermarket rear shocks. You will see the prelod steps on the outside of those rear shocks.
      ...also check the dampening dials on top of the rear shocks.

      Make sure they are set the same on both shocks and not in between the numbers as that will give you, automatically, the stiffest ride.

      I recommend starting at 3 and go up towards 4 for a stiffer ride and the opposite way, down towards 1 for a softer ride.

      I ,when my '80G was together, riding solo, usually set the dial at 3 and changed to 4 when riding 2 up. YMMV HTH
      1980 XS1100G "Dolly G" Full Dresser (with a coat of many colors )
      1979 XS1100SF (stock-euro mods planned)
      1984 XV700L Virago (to be hot-modded)
      1983 XJ750MK Midnight Maxim (semi-restored DD)
      1977 XS650D ( patiently awaiting resto)

      Sometimes it takes a whole tank of gas before you can think straight.

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      • #18
        Ian, softer = more bouncy, less direct impact to you. Stiffer = closer to beign a hard tail. The lower the numbers on your rear shock pre-loads, the softer the ride.

        If yours are like the 81 Specials, at the bottom of the shock, there is a preload for the springs. You have to turn it along its steps. Think of it liek this, the step that is closest to the bottom of the shock is the highest preload or stiffest ride. Furthest form the bottom is softest ride.

        I eventually bought a set of XJ air shocks for the back.
        Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

        When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

        81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
        80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


        Previously owned
        93 GSX600F
        80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
        81 XS1100 Special
        81 CB750 C
        80 CB750 C
        78 XS750

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        • #19
          Looks like he has a 79F. No dial on rear shocks. It will just have the setting crown (dont know what it is called) for preload that is set with a spanner wrench, if I remember correctly.
          Skids (Sid Hansen)

          Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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          • #20
            you're correct, and I think more pre-load means stiffer ride(squeezing the spring gives it less travel)
            Nick

            1979 XS11 F,Yamaha fairings w/hard bags, TC's fuse box, K&N air filter

            1982 Virago 750 (it's alive!)

            1979 XS 11 F, Windjammer IV, Samsonite luggage cases(another rescue)

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            • #21
              I'm one from the top. I guess I'll go all the way up and see if it softens up the ride (even though as described before, it's just a height adjustment). We'll see what happens. I'm 5'10", 160 lbs. Maybe I need to be consuming more fast food to get this bike under control, lol.
              1979 XS1100F
              2H9 Mod, Truck-Lite LED Headlight, TECHNA-FIT S/S Brake Lines, Rear Air Shocks, TKAT Fork Brace, Dyna DC-I Coils, TC Fuse Block, Barnett HD Clutch Springs, Superbike Handlebars, V-Star 650 ACCT, NGK Irridium Plugs, OEM Exhaust. CNC-Cut 2nd Gear Dogs; Ported/Milled Head; Modded Airbox: 8x8 Wix Panel Filter; #137.5 Main Jet, Viper Yellow Paint, Michelin Pilot Activ F/R, Interstate AGM Battery, 14MM MC, Maier Fairing, Cree LED Fog Lights.

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              • #22
                Hating the ride quality I had when mine was new (to me), I emptied the forks and replaced the fluid with Dexron VI atf. As I discovered one fork was effectively empty at the outset of this endevour, this was a great improvement.
                The preload for the rear shocks on my 78 were also set at the second from the highest, I dropped them down one setting and realized a notable improvement in ride quality. (By the way, dropping the preload does not require special tools, a large set of slip joint pliers will get the job done, but the spanner wrench is basically essential to go back up in preload setting without causing visible damage to the chrome.)
                Eventually I dropped the preload on the fork springs and the rear shocks to their lowest settings and am very pleased with the outcome. The fellow I got the bike from was somewhere on the other side of 300 lbs., whereas I am a svelte 180 and almost never ride 2up.
                '78 E "Stormbringer"

                Purrs like a kitten, roars like a lion, runs like a gazelle (being chased by a cheetah).

                pics http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/...tormbringer45/

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