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  • Exhaust engineering

    Thought you guys might be interested in this video. It speaks to a number of things that have been said around this forum regarding alternative exhausts.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=KjKUKhHQLHg

    Loved the recommended treatment for drag pipes.
    1995 KZ100P
    Pods, jets, pipes, cam adjuster, oil cooler

    1977 Ironhead - custom build
    Hot engine, custom frame, KZ front and rear, high torque starter, alternator conversion, Progressive shocks, Thunderheart wiring, Dyna ignition, oil cooler, Dakota Digital instruments, etc.

    Sold all my XS's to Eastcoaster but still love to keep up with you guys. This is the best cycle forum on the web.

  • #2
    Very good demonstration of wave mechanics.

    I am still chucking over "Constabulary"

    John
    John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

    Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
    '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
    Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

    "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

    Comment


    • #3
      Yeah. Me too. A term that I will remember.
      Skids (Sid Hansen)

      Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

      Comment


      • #4
        I finally got what I feel is my happy medium with my Mac exaust system. It has the tapered tip mufflers but has always been loud and to me loud means lack of restriction loss of back presure etc etc. I made a set of baffles using washers and some pipe. In the picture it appears that basically the baffel in the mack pipes is a bent pipe with baffel cuts sealled on both ends. The baffel in mine ended about 5 inches from the enf of the pipe leaving a large open area that I believed was magnifying the sound. The baffel had an opening that I could slip a 6 inch piece if pipe in and it ended at the end of muffler. I welded 2 strong washers one in the middle and one on the end of the pipe. I put a smaller washer into the one inch pipe to restrict flow comming out. I then drilled a bunch of holes threw the one inch pipe on both ends of the smaller washer for exaust flow. So now basically I have flow comming out being restricted by small washers thew little holes on one side over the large washer and back thew small holes into the one inch pipe and out. I built both sides with exactly the same amount of little holes and tacked the outer washer to the outer edge of bevel of muffler so that inside of one inch is supported by the inner baffel and the outer washer holds the pipe tight inside. I cut a heat resistant gasket and got stainless washer as a trim plate to cover so it looks clean and completely seal leak. Two small screws attach the stainless trim washer to baffel.



        The advantage of doing it this way is the ability to change the level of baffeling without pulling the baffel. I started out with a 1/4 hole in the small washer and ran the bike and could tell it quieted it greatly but maybe lost some power so i drilled the center hole of the little washer a little by little driving till i felt I hit a good spot with the inside at a little over 5/8ths. Its alot closer to the sound of the factory pipes there is more back presure and feels like its running better and I do not attract the eyes of every cop now.
        To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

        Rodan
        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
        1980 G Silverbird
        Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
        1198 Overbore kit
        Grizzly 660 ACCT
        Barnett Clutch Springs
        R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
        122.5 Main Jets
        ACCT Mod
        Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
        Antivibe Bar ends
        Rear trunk add-on
        http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

        Comment


        • #5
          Excellent. Thanks for posting that!
          XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

          Comment


          • #6
            Viper Ron,

            We need pictures of your pipes on your bike. Very good write-up.
            1995 KZ100P
            Pods, jets, pipes, cam adjuster, oil cooler

            1977 Ironhead - custom build
            Hot engine, custom frame, KZ front and rear, high torque starter, alternator conversion, Progressive shocks, Thunderheart wiring, Dyna ignition, oil cooler, Dakota Digital instruments, etc.

            Sold all my XS's to Eastcoaster but still love to keep up with you guys. This is the best cycle forum on the web.

            Comment


            • #7
              That video is quite good. I would say (and I repeat myself a lot) that if you are after an exhaust system that gets some "benefit" from exhaust scavenging, there will be advantages at some rpms and disadvantages at other rpms. I suppose that scavenging might be important to drag racers who hold the rpms high for the launch and keep them high throughout the race.
              Skids (Sid Hansen)

              Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

              Comment


              • #8
                Pictures

                Here are some pictures.





                [/IMG]



                I may have comented before the center small washer final hole was 5/8 actually it was 7/16. I used a 1/8 bit for the internal holes drilled arround the baffel and it was 6 rows of 7 in a line on both sides of the baffel.
                To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

                Rodan
                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
                1980 G Silverbird
                Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
                1198 Overbore kit
                Grizzly 660 ACCT
                Barnett Clutch Springs
                R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
                122.5 Main Jets
                ACCT Mod
                Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
                Antivibe Bar ends
                Rear trunk add-on
                http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

                Comment

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