Fuel gauge adjustment?

[skids]

Now that, I can understand.
But it means I have to pry the gauge open, and I'm not that concerned about it, yet.
I'll store that bit of info away until the tach goes wonky, and then look into it, literally.
Thanks Skids, CZ

Your skills are probably way better than mine, but I could not solder it and JB weld didn't stick. In the big picture, you are probably better off finding a used good gage. If you do that, you might want to keep the old one around because there is a volt regulator in there that you may need someday. I have seen bad gages for sale on fleebay where they were unhooked and yet the gage was not reading zero (another broken tyne issue) so beware!

[ViperRon]

CZ I used a mix to get 32 OHM's in series right at the plug but my value is probably different from yours. I had an assorment of resisters so it was just a matter of playing with values. I do suggest you put them in some shrink wrap to protect them when done. That issue with the unit tyne getting fractured like Skids mentioned sounds like the issue causing the problem. Given this problem you can get one with the same problem from someone and not know till its in the tank. Good luck mine has been stable for about 6 months with no change.

[CaptonZap]

Thanks for the input, guys.
The 32 ohms is close to the 40 that I am using, Ron, and the difference is that mine reads empty at the reserve spot, and yours at real empty. I'll try it a while and see what it does.
And don't worry Skids, I aint never thrown nothin away. Although, I think that black plastic thing an the back of the tach is the voltage regulator, and you don't have to get inside the gauge to get to it. That's just a quick guess, since the voltage at the tank plug was correct, so I wasn't going any farther than that in my trouble shooting.
Thanks for all the thoughts, CZ