Pre Startup check list.

[nzemke]

I'll be starting up my XS11 for the first time tomorrow and I have been reading everything that I can find on carburetors as that would seem to be the original issue the previous owner had. In the process of doing so I have gone through and completely cleaned the carbs and done a bunch of pre calibrations in the hope of having a successful startup and idle. So here is a list of the things that I have done. I was hoping to get some feedback on if there is anything else I should do before starting it up.

Pre calibration List:

1. Set the butterfly valves so I can just barely slide a twisty tie under it.
2. Set the Floats to 25.7mm from the carb body to the highest point on the float.
3. when setting the butterfly valves I looked for the three dots when aligning the valves.
4. Replaced the gas lines.
5. Replaced oil with 15w-50
6. Cleaned inside of tank
7. Cleaned Cleaned Cleaned

[Old Red]

Make sure your battery is fully charged and spark plugs are good.

Earl

[crazy steve]

If you've never heard it run, I always recommend checking the valve clearances too. This is neglected on many of these and can cause you to chase your tail if they're off enough. A bit of work, but can really pay off sometimes...

You'll have to do it eventually anyway...

[James England]

Personally, I've found it reassuring to check the carbs to some extent before putting them back on the bike. I always put the fuel tank on a box or something and use long fuel lines to connect up the bank of carbs which I put lower than the tank (of course...) and level. Then I turn the fuel onto prime.

I do the above in case there is something amiss with the float needles/floats/levels etc. It's a lot easier to rectify at this stage, rather than have to take the bank of carbs off the bike (having just put them on!) because one is flooding.

[nzemke]

Battery is new but I will have to pick up spark plugs. Does anyone know what the Gap should be?

As to the valve clearences I think I'll wait on that as I only wanted a week or two of driving before I break down the engine for the winter overhaul. But I went and looked at what I need so it's deffinetly on the to do list.

I like the idea of putting them on the bench and testing them. That would give me a chance to make sure that all of my lines are working as well so I don't pour gas down either side of the motorcycle.

Thank you for the good ideas, keep em coming!

[Iron Duke]

gap

28 to 32 and heres luck to ya regards Iron

[lakecountrydave]

When was the last time the bike was run?

You might want to put some fogging oil, a teaspoon of ATF or a teaspoon of motor oil (opinions will differ) in the spark plug holes. Then spin the engine a few times with the ignition off. Just so that you have some lubricant between the metal surfaces. The oil will smoke, but it will quickly burn off.

That is just my $.02 anyway.

[skids]

.

Pre calibration List:

1. Set the butterfly valves so I can just barely slide a twisty tie under it.
2. Set the Floats to 25.7mm from the carb body to the highest point on the float.
3. when setting the butterfly valves I looked for the three dots when aligning the valves.
4. Replaced the gas lines.
5. Replaced oil with 15w-50
6. Cleaned inside of tank
7. Cleaned Cleaned Cleaned

Get some fram inline fuel filters and cross the right side to the left and left side to the right to make room for them.

If it has been neglected, change all fluids: Brake, fork, middle, final drive. I say get her running first.

A little oil in the spark plug holes and hand-turning the crank is a good idea if it hasn't run for an extended time. You remove the left side cover and turn the crank clockwise with the timing plate thing.

If your battery is weak you can jump it off a car batter with the car NOT RUNNING.

The bread tie trick will get the vacumm pressure close, but you will eventually want to use mercury manometers or similar to zero-it-in. The differences with compression will be compensated for that way.

Usually the spark plugs can be wire brushed and regapped.

[nzemke]

The guy I picked this up from had three of the same model and a parts bike. He said that he ran this one about a year ago. When he started working with it last summer he changed the spark plugs and the oil and filter, brakes and break pads, and rebuilt the carbs. Last he was working on it he was unable to get it to idle and said he had learned enough new swear words with that one that he just taped up all the open ports and wrapped it up tight with a tarp then moved on to another one.

He tested all cylinders and said that compression was excellent on all pistons and it sounds like he ran it enough that it should be lubed enough. By ran I mean he was able to get it going and revved it up to 6.5k rpm without it dying but just couldn't get the thing to idle. Should I still put a little oil in and let it burn off?

When I got it from him there wasn't a battery with it so I have to pick up a new one tomorrow on pay day along with new oil, gas hose, and a inline fuel filter.

In regards to vacuum pressure am I correct in saying that's where you can use the aquarium tubing to balance them? Or is there something else that I need to be concerned with? I saw some of those gauges for the 4 cylinder on eBay for $80 and planning to pick one up next month.

[skids]

two inline fuel filters. Fram #G3515. Usually idling problems are caused by:

1. Broken pilot screw tips on the carb tops - no fuel from idle circuit.
2. Air leaks, usually at the manifold boots. Also check nipple covers at manifold boots.
3. Unbalanced vacuums (synchronize).
4. Flooding/leaking fuel valves under the floats.
5. Mixture way off - start pilot screws with 1.25 turns out from a light seated position. This is a tricky process to get it just right.
6. Dirty carbs.

[nzemke]

two inline fuel filters. Fram #G3515. Usually idling problems are caused by:

1. Broken pilot screw tips on the carb tops - no fuel from idle circuit.
2. Air leaks, usually at the manifold boots. Also check nipple covers at manifold boots.
3. Unbalanced vacuums (synchronize).
4. Flooding/leaking fuel valves under the floats.
5. Mixture way off - start pilot screws with 1.25 turns out from a light seated position. This is a tricky process to get it just right.
6. Dirty carbs.

Excellent! Thank you for the advise! I haven't set the pilot screws so I will do that before I start it up. Really hoping the pilot screws aren't broken :S. I'll go over the nipple covers to make sure that they are sealed. And Planning on balancing the vacuums. I noticed when I took the carbs apart that one set of floats was way off compared to the rest of them. And two of the needles were stuck and had to be forced out. As well as three of the needle valves were gummed in.

[natemoen]

Start at 2 out on the pilot screws. It will start easier and it will be closer to your end point anyways.

[fredintoon]

- - - Battery is new but I will have to pick up spark plugs. Does anyone know what the Gap should be? - - -

Hi Noah,
never mind what the battery sales person tells you, new batteries are NOT fully charged.
Charge it overnight on a 1 amp charger before you push the starter button.

[nzemke]

Hi Noah,
never mind what the battery sales person tells you, new batteries are NOT fully charged.
Charge it overnight on a 1 amp charger before you push the starter button.

As hard as it will be to wait another day to start it up, I suspect that as I'm looking to make sure everything is running at optimal conditions for running I'll just have to wait and hit it early in the morning.

I think just to be safe I'll put it right between where you guys are saying and see if that does the trick