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Crack in #1 cylinder?????

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  • #1

    Crack in #1 cylinder?????

    Hey Fellas I need some help here.
    I pulled apart my XJ1100 to rebuild the head and re-ring the pistons. (Compression pressure wasn't as good as I'd like to see it.) As I am cleaning and inspecting, I find what looks like a fine crack in the lower part of #1 cylinder. I haven't had it magnifluxed as of yet so I can't be sure of what it is. So, thinking that maybe I need a cylinder, I go on ebay and there are a few cylinder assemblies for sale with the same kind of mark in cylinder #1.
    Does anyone know what is going on here?
    82 XJ
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Show us some pictures.
    Nathan
    KD9ARL

    μολὼν λαβέ

    1978 XS1100E
    K&N Filter
    #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
    OEM Exhaust
    ATK Fork Brace
    LED Dash lights
    Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
    Green Monster Coils
    SS Brake Lines
    Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

    In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

    Theodore Roosevelt

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    • #3
      Originally posted by senrak View Post
      Does anyone know what is going on here?
      Not without a photo, no......

      Open an account in photobucket.com and upload your photos to it. Then copy the image code (img code) which pops up when you put the mouse pointer over the photo and then copy the code into your posting here on the forum. The photo then shows up in your posting.
      Last edited by James England; 09-24-2012, 05:35 PM.
      XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

      Comment

      • #4
        Like the others, I don't know what kind of mark you're seeing, but you can also pop these cylinder sleeves out of the aluminum pretty easily. If you set your oven to @ 350 degrees and set the cylinders in facing up with the weight resting on the bottom of the sleeves, the aluminum heats up first and expands, and the block will fall down around the base of the inserts. Then you can pick whatever sleeve you want to use. (After you buy a used set) Just have the sleeve you want to use cool, heat up the cylinders again for a few minutes, then drop the sleeve right back into the block When it cools off, it'll hold it tight.

        If you find a good set, go with that IF yours has a hairline crack, but if you find a bad replacement set, as long as they were stock, mic out the best cylinder and you can use it.
        Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

        You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

        Current bikes:
        '06 Suzuki DR650
        *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
        '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
        '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
        '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
        '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
        '81 XS1100 Special
        '81 YZ250
        '80 XS850 Special
        '80 XR100
        *Crashed/Totalled, still own

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        • #5
          Photos of #1 cylinder:
          http://s470.beta.photobucket.com/use...enrak/library/
          82 XJ

          Comment

          • #6
            That looks like a crack to me. Especially since it's running horizontally and not vertically (where it could a scoring). Def. a crack IMO
            XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

            Comment

            • #7
              Ya, That is my opinion too. I think I'll go with trbig's advise and look for spare cylinders. I would hope I can run monkey balls in the cylinders to get a cross hatch back, install new rings and be good to go. Still, that is a strange place to develope a crack.
              82 XJ

              Comment

              • #8
                You might find it easier to look for a whole block, rather than replacing one sleeve. They're on eBay cheap enough. If a batch of relatively weak sleeves was used, you might get similar cracks in the other three cylinders at some point. Now that would be frustrating!
                XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Yeah, my suggestion is mainly if you just can't find a good complete set. Try to find one that someone says had low miles, or you could run into some wear problems. They'll get egg-shaped front to back over time. If you get a set that's too worn, there's a set of overbore pistons from Japan that people have been talking about for a pretty good price. Then you'd need to get your cylinders bored though.
                  Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

                  You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

                  Current bikes:
                  '06 Suzuki DR650
                  *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
                  '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
                  '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
                  '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
                  '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
                  '81 XS1100 Special
                  '81 YZ250
                  '80 XS850 Special
                  '80 XR100
                  *Crashed/Totalled, still own

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    From the photos it does look like a crack.

                    Buuut sometimes if a bike has been laid up for a long time with the piston in that position where the top ring is sat where the "crack" is, it can cause corrosion that eats slightly into the cast iron of the liner. It can happen only on one cylinder because damp gets in on that cylinder coz only one cylinder might have its valves open allowing moisture in.

                    Check the other cylinders more closely to see if there is a slight mark at the same height, it's No.1 cylinder so check No.4 cylinder at the same height.

                    Just a thought




                    .
                    Tom
                    1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
                    1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
                    1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
                    1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      You should have that PT tested to make sure it is a crack. Might save you money in the long run...
                      '79 XS11 F
                      Stock except K&N

                      '79 XS11 SF
                      Stock, no title.

                      '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
                      GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

                      "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        You know, you might be on to something here. There are no marks like this on the other cylinders. The mark on #1 does run around less than half the cylinder on what would be the down side of the engine when the bike was on the side stand. With an exhaust valve open for a long time it could be that there was some of that dammed acidic moisture that sat there and rusted the wall at the compression ring. The engine ran okay this summer, when I saved it from some kid that was about to turn it into a rat bike. I don't know the complete history, except that it has always been registered here in Wisconsin where we have 8 months of winter and maybe two months of riding weather. So, it is intirely possible that this could be the explaination.
                        82 XJ

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          A crude check for a crack on a liner, hold up the barrels as lightly as possible and "ring" each liner where it hangs out of the barrels, use a small hammer or something like the end of a wrench and gently tap each liner, the cracked one may sound dull compared to the others.

                          Like I said, its crude




                          .
                          Tom
                          1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
                          1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
                          1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
                          1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            Face it if it's cracked its toast but if it is a corrosion ring or something you will have to hone or bore it out anyway. If you have access to a hone tool run it and see if it clears up if you hone it down a little and still see a mark its toast. Getting it magnafluxed to check is not always cheap.
                            To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

                            Rodan
                            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
                            1980 G Silverbird
                            Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
                            1198 Overbore kit
                            Grizzly 660 ACCT
                            Barnett Clutch Springs
                            R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
                            122.5 Main Jets
                            ACCT Mod
                            Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
                            Antivibe Bar ends
                            Rear trunk add-on
                            http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

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                            • #15
                              Well. I'll get to the bottom of it one way or the other. I'll post my findings when that happens. Thanks for the imput. This is, after all a labor of love.
                              DW
                              82 XJ

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