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  • Fuel system issue

    Howdy. As I am a non-mechanic, I will surely use incorrect nomenclature. My problem: serious fuel leak at the fuel line 'junction box.' The square do-hickey that is part of the octopus fuel line assembly. I took it apart, inspected the material inside, cleaned build-up on the metal surfaces, reassembled making sure all screws were tight. Was proud of myself when I hooked the fuel lines up, thinking I'd be cruising in 15 minutes. WRONG! Soon as I opened the petcocks, BAM! Leaking like crazy. Help, please.

    Peace!
    Mike Farrington
    Suwanee, GA USA

    Current: '80 XS11SG, '97 Vulcan 1500, '73 CB750
    Previous: '79 XS11SF, '80 XS11G, '81 XS650

  • #2
    It needs a rebuild kit. I will send you instructions when I get to a place. I can use my laptop. Or...I'll fix it for you next week.
    Marty (in Mississippi)
    XS1100SG
    XS650SK
    XS650SH
    XS650G
    XS6502F
    XS650E

    Comment


    • #3
      toss it asap

      Best bet is to do what most folks have done with the fuel line octoput,,,TOSS IT, just hook up the fuel lines straight to the carbs from the tank petcocks. If your worried about leaks there is a quick mod for grinding on the pet cocks to turn off the gas when not running. Or you can put in a couple of gas shutoffs from a mower shop. The octopus is a bad design and causes multiple headaches,,,,so, keep it simple toss it. Also, you probably have gas in your oil,,,,CHANGE IT ASAP,,,,to keep from burning up your eng. bearings. There is a lot of info in the search section, but time to ride, toss the octopus....Mike in Sun Diego
      mike
      1982 xj1100 maxim
      1981 venture bagger
      1999 Kawi Nomad 1500 greenie
      1959 wife

      Comment


      • #4
        I always end up tossing it. If you really want the vacuum petcocks, you can adapt some from another bike. My 78 XS750 has vacuum petcocks that I'm thinking of using. It's nice when you don't have to physically shut off your fuel every time you get off the bike.
        "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

        Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by soccer4m View Post
          Best bet is to do what most folks have done with the fuel line octoput,,,TOSS IT, just hook up the fuel lines straight to the carbs from the tank petcocks. If your worried about leaks there is a quick mod for grinding on the pet cocks to turn off the gas when not running. Or you can put in a couple of gas shutoffs from a mower shop. The octopus is a bad design and causes multiple headaches,,,,so, keep it simple toss it. Also, you probably have gas in your oil,,,,CHANGE IT ASAP,,,,to keep from burning up your eng. bearings. There is a lot of info in the search section, but time to ride, toss the octopus....Mike in Sun Diego
          Specials already have the OFF position. Standards have no OFF and fuel is shut off with internal diaphrams in the petcocks, IF working correctly.
          81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

          Comment


          • #6
            Man, I love this place!

            Thanks for all the replies. So if I get this straight .... If I rebuild the octo I get to keep the fancy feature of not having to turn off fuel upon stop. If I scrap the octo, I have a simpler system, but do need to turn off the fuel upon stop. Do I have this correct?

            Peace
            Mike Farrington
            Suwanee, GA USA

            Current: '80 XS11SG, '97 Vulcan 1500, '73 CB750
            Previous: '79 XS11SF, '80 XS11G, '81 XS650

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by mfarrington View Post
              Thanks for all the replies. So if I get this straight .... If I rebuild the octo I get to keep the fancy feature of not having to turn off fuel upon stop. If I scrap the octo, I have a simpler system, but do need to turn off the fuel upon stop. Do I have this correct?

              Peace
              Basically.

              But even with the octy you should still turn the fuel off cause things fail......
              Nathan
              KD9ARL

              μολὼν λαβέ

              1978 XS1100E
              K&N Filter
              #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
              OEM Exhaust
              ATK Fork Brace
              LED Dash lights
              Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

              Green Monster Coils
              SS Brake Lines
              Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

              In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

              Theodore Roosevelt

              Comment


              • #8
                One major issue with the octy is all the fuel lines it needs (eight pieces instead of two) and getting all the lengths/routing correct, which is rather critical. A lot of 'stuff' in a rather confined space, and they can be a real PITA to deal with.

                And like Nate said, you really should be turning the fuel off anyway....
                Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                '78E original owner - resto project
                '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                '82 XJ rebuild project
                '80SG restified, red SOLD
                '79F parts...
                '81H more parts...

                Other current bikes:
                '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Like Steve said

                  SOOO,,,,run a fuel line from each of the petcocks to the carbs with A inline FILTER in each line to stop the crud. There is no need to turn off if carbs are not leaking,,,,BUT, its a good idea just in case to turn to off if the bike is sitting, unridden for more than a few days. The lines can have a shutoff added if your petcocks do not have an off position, or there is a mod to grind off the petcock lever to just turn straight up to off. TOSS THE OCTOPUS, and your life will be much happier...........Mike in SUn DIEGO
                  mike
                  1982 xj1100 maxim
                  1981 venture bagger
                  1999 Kawi Nomad 1500 greenie
                  1959 wife

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey, I just rebuilt my petcocks(standard), did that mod(ground of that little tab so I can turn handle up) and my petcocks still leak .....

                    I even stretched that spring a little because I had kits from georgefix, and someone was saying that springs are too short...

                    also the handles turn really hard

                    any ideas?

                    PS. sorry for hijacking your post...
                    Nick

                    1979 XS11 F,Yamaha fairings w/hard bags, TC's fuse box, K&N air filter

                    1982 Virago 750 (it's alive!)

                    1979 XS 11 F, Windjammer IV, Samsonite luggage cases(another rescue)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      try this

                      HI Nick,,,,try smoothing down the back of the petcock handle with wetsand paper, make sure the rubber gasket is clean, reapply grease, dont crank the screws and it should be nice and smooth when turning. You will have to pull out the handle to check and smooth it out. If there is any grit, crud,etc it will be hard to turn or your gasket is shot and it will leak no matter what you do, try smoothing it out, grease it and lightly seat the hold down screws, and get back to the guys here....................Mike
                      mike
                      1982 xj1100 maxim
                      1981 venture bagger
                      1999 Kawi Nomad 1500 greenie
                      1959 wife

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I couldn't get mine to stop leaking after new gaskets were installed. I took it apart many times thinking I was doing something wrong and then realized that the sealing surface on the back side of the petcock, the surface that does not move, was corroded. I then installed the gasket with epoxy to close the corrosion channels dug by water in the tank for years before I got it. It worked for me, just don't get epoxy on any moving parts. I'm not sure what is going to happen the next time I need new gaskets, maybe the gasket will come out and the epoxy will stay?? Let's hope.
                        "Galaxy" 1982 XJ1100J, 1983 XV handlebars, new fusebox, homemade SS wind screen and SS muffler heat shields, homemade grab bar extension and luggage rack. XS750 140 mph speedo, '81 Venture oil cooler, V-Max ACCT, Yahman YICS Eliminator, 1st and 2nd gear Dremel fix.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by soccer4m View Post
                          HI Nick,,,,try smoothing down the back of the petcock handle with wetsand paper, make sure the rubber gasket is clean, reapply grease, dont crank the screws and it should be nice and smooth when turning. You will have to pull out the handle to check and smooth it out. If there is any grit, crud,etc it will be hard to turn or your gasket is shot and it will leak no matter what you do, try smoothing it out, grease it and lightly seat the hold down screws, and get back to the guys here....................Mike
                          What he's suggesting with the sandpaper is to polish the surface of the petcock arm/body that rotates and makes contact with the rubber seal. That surface can become buggered up over time and have varnish on it. Any little flaw in it could cause the leakage. Once you get it polished just flip the rubber gasket over (the one with 4 holes that contacts the petcock lever) in case there is a nick in it causing the leak. I would be cautious about applying a grease to any rubber parts, depending what you use it may not be compatible. I have noticed that if you run a little bit of 2-stroke oil in your gas tank your petcock valves will turn more easily.
                          '79 XS11 F
                          Stock except K&N

                          '79 XS11 SF
                          Stock, no title.

                          '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
                          GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

                          "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

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                          • #14
                            I'm gunna scrap it ....

                            Special has off position on petcocks, seems easiest to connect both sides to fuel filter and then directly to carbs.

                            Thanks again to all. I love this place!

                            Peace
                            Mike Farrington
                            Suwanee, GA USA

                            Current: '80 XS11SG, '97 Vulcan 1500, '73 CB750
                            Previous: '79 XS11SF, '80 XS11G, '81 XS650

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yup, what marshy said. Certain petroleum products can expand rubber. If your handles are too tight, then try using blue thread lock on your screws and then just tighten them until the lever is manageable.
                              "The Hooligan" XJ1100, Virago Gauge Pods, Screaming Eagle Mufflers, K&N Filter, hand made rear fender, side covers, and solo seat, round bar conversion, small headlight, tail light, and cat eye turn signals, chip fuses, rewired the right way.

                              Pics: http://s1236.photobucket.com/user/ya...?sort=6&page=1

                              Comment

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