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  • #1

    Final Drive

    I could be wrong here so I am asking for input from all the experts here to chime in. I have read here very often about members having problems with the final drive fill plug being hard to remove and damaging theirs removing it.

    The first time I pulled mine it did not come off easy so I took the washer off and got a good quality thick Oring to put in place of the washer. I only snugged the plug down hard enough to squeeze the Oring and make a seal. If the Oring gets worn or hard I just replace it. I have always lubricated the threads good installing it and never had a leak or a problem removing it. My final drive actually sit in not the best location for about 10 years before I put the bike back together last year and I had no problem with the plug comming out or a leak.

    I do not see where there is any great presure as there is a breather plug on top and mine does not leak so I am hopping this can help some members. The advantage I see is that with a thick Oring is you only need to snug it good and the presure of the Oring keeps it tight. If you tighten too far the ring snaps and its easily visible so you tend not to over tighten the plug.
    To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

    Rodan
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
    1980 G Silverbird
    Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
    1198 Overbore kit
    Grizzly 660 ACCT
    Barnett Clutch Springs
    R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
    122.5 Main Jets
    ACCT Mod
    Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
    Antivibe Bar ends
    Rear trunk add-on
    http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Hey Ron,

    Sounds like a good tip! I just replaced my engine oil and filter in preparation for the SE Rally, and the crankcase cap has a nice red O-ring and it's held only HAND TIGHT! Next time I check my final drive oil level, I'll put one under it.

    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

    Comment

    • #3
      My only thought, and it is just a "devil's advocate" type thing, is that the o-ring tightness may not be neough to keep the bolt from backing out under vibration the FD may see. Not saying this is not a good idea, just something to keep an eye on till it proves the theory wrong.
      Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

      When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

      81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
      80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


      Previously owned
      93 GSX600F
      80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
      81 XS1100 Special
      81 CB750 C
      80 CB750 C
      78 XS750

      Comment

      • #4
        I bought a hex head plug for a couple bucks that will last me the life of the bike. Also put the same one on the middle drive too.
        Nathan
        KD9ARL

        μολὼν λαβέ

        1978 XS1100E
        K&N Filter
        #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
        OEM Exhaust
        ATK Fork Brace
        LED Dash lights
        Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
        Green Monster Coils
        SS Brake Lines
        Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

        In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

        Theodore Roosevelt

        Comment

        • #5
          Originally posted by DGXSER View Post
          My only thought, and it is just a "devil's advocate" type thing, is that the o-ring tightness may not be neough to keep the bolt from backing out under vibration the FD may see. Not saying this is not a good idea, just something to keep an eye on till it proves the theory wrong.
          Let me put your mind at ease. Back in the day, Triumph twins had round caps that covered the adjustment screws for the valves, and came with cork gaskets.
          After many covers were lost, due to vibration, someone figured out that if you put an O-ring under the cap, they would stay in place when tightened finger tight. Problem solved.
          In my case, I chucked the plug up in the lathe, an using a 1/16 in round nose tool, cut a groove on the under side of the flat sealing portion of the plug. The groove captures part of the o-ring, and is not as quick to squeeze the o-ring out if over tightened.
          Either way is good. CZ

          Comment

          • #6
            I'd use an O ring on the drain plug if it had the groove mentioned above but I personally would not be happy with an O-ring just slightly squashed under a normal drain plug. Too much pressure and the ring will splurge out. Too little and it won't seal. The FD is too important to risk something like this on.

            I think the best solution is to use a copper washer and an allen bolt.

            Triumph cork gaskets on the valve covers always leaked like mad and the covers also vibrated off a lot. I know, because I had three Bonnevilles and they all did it. I spent a fortune on those valve covers. The difference there is that even without a cover, they didn't lose a huge amount of oil. The FD drain plug is something rather different though.....
            XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

            Comment

            • #7
              Fill plug not drain plug James. The fill plug is the one I think most end up damaging the allen head in. The drain plug is continually covered by oil and would take a solid seal but also with oil being exposed to the thread tends not to lock up like the fill plug unless it is torqued to tight. I have had the Oring under mine for more then 25,000 miles and no problems other than the first time it was opened. However I can see where a hardtail bobber might shake anything loose. Although I think it would be even better seal if there was a grove, there would be no indication to stop people from over tightening the fill cap.

              My thought on this is most of the problem is because there seems to be such a difference in some peoples understanding of hand tight. Some believe as soon as there is resistance that's it. Others believe its the point at which the gears strip or handle breaks on the tool being used. I thought with this way they can see the Oring expand and I hope easily see if it breaks.
              To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

              Rodan
              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
              1980 G Silverbird
              Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
              1198 Overbore kit
              Grizzly 660 ACCT
              Barnett Clutch Springs
              R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
              122.5 Main Jets
              ACCT Mod
              Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
              Antivibe Bar ends
              Rear trunk add-on
              http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

              Comment

              • #8
                OOH! FILL plug. In that case, ignore everything I said (most people do....). Yes, just shove an O ring under it!
                XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                Comment

                • #9
                  Fill Plug

                  Has anyone ever tried replacing the aluminum (alloy) washer on the fill plug with a copper washer?

                  MP
                  1981 XS1100H Venturer
                  K&N Air Filter
                  ACCT
                  Custom Paint by Deitz
                  Geezer Rectifier/Regulator
                  Chacal Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines
                  Chrome Front Rotor & Caliper Covers
                  Stebel Nautilus Horn
                  EBC Front Rotors
                  Limie Accent Moves On In 2015

                  Mike

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    No, but I did try a spark plug washer. After a couple thousand miles, there was a coating of dust adhering to the oil film that had seeped out. Unsightly, to say the least.
                    That's when I went with the O-ring. Dry as a bone since then. CZ

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Originally posted by MPittma100 View Post
                      Has anyone ever tried replacing the aluminum (alloy) washer on the fill plug with a copper washer?

                      MP
                      Yep. Fiber washer procured from my local Ace Hardware is the best solution for me. I used an identical washer on the drain plug. 2 thumbs up!
                      Marty (in Mississippi)
                      XS1100SG
                      XS650SK
                      XS650SH
                      XS650G
                      XS6502F
                      XS650E

                      Comment

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