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  • #1

    Sticky Clutch Plates

    I have a completly rebuilt 78 xs1100E, which included new clutch plates. My problem is the clutch plates stick after the bike sits for a few days. The longer it sits the harder they stick.

    What I mean by sticking is If I put the bike in gear without the engine running and pull the clutch lever in, the transmission will not release.

    I get it to release by rocking the bike back and forth with the transmission in first gear while holding the clutch lever in until the clutch plates release. It usually takes about twenty rocks to release.

    The engine will stall If I don't release the plates before placing the bike in first gear with the engine running. In fact it's just like stomping the bike into first gear without pulling the clutch in.

    I didn't get a search hit for this condition. Anybody know what is going on?
    My heros have always been flat trackers.
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Did you soak the new plates in oil before installing?


    I might try adding Seafoam to the oil, run it a bit then drain and refill.

    I think Prom suggested awhile back running it up against a tree so it couldnt lurch fwd then dumping it into first with clutch lever pulled in to free up the plates.


    I have not had this problem, but maybe switch to synthetic for one change?

    John
    John is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)

    Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
    '81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
    Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine

    "Not all treasure is silver and gold"

    Comment

    • #3
      Originally posted by jwhughes3 View Post
      Did you soak the new plates in oil before installing?
      My first thought too.
      Nathan
      KD9ARL

      μολὼν λαβέ

      1978 XS1100E
      K&N Filter
      #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
      OEM Exhaust
      ATK Fork Brace
      LED Dash lights
      Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
      Green Monster Coils
      SS Brake Lines
      Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

      In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

      Theodore Roosevelt

      Comment

      • #4
        Make sure your oil is on the high mark. Adjust the clutch screw so that you are close to the friction point before you set it.
        Skids (Sid Hansen)

        Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

        Comment

        • #5
          Answer one question for me... are you having trouble getting it into neutral when its running? I'd put my money on clutch adjustment...
          '79 XS11 F
          Stock except K&N

          '79 XS11 SF
          Stock, no title.

          '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
          GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

          "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

          Comment

          • #6
            Yes, the clutch plates were soaked in oil before installation. I also have about 3k on the engine now.

            The oil I use is Castrol 4T 20w-50 4 stroke motorcycle oil.

            Cable adjustment is good and the bike will go into neutral fine with the engine running. I have no shifting issues.
            My heros have always been flat trackers.

            Comment

            • #7
              Originally posted by Mashermoto View Post
              Yes, the clutch plates were soaked in oil before installation. I also have about 3k on the engine now.

              The oil I use is Castrol 4T 20w-50 4 stroke motorcycle oil.

              Cable adjustment is good and the bike will go into neutral fine with the engine running. I have no shifting issues.
              Has it always acted this way since you put the clutch back together? You might want to try giving it another adjustment. The clutch will disengage if there is enough travel in the throwout. If not then you steels might be warped.
              '79 XS11 F
              Stock except K&N

              '79 XS11 SF
              Stock, no title.

              '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
              GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

              "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

              Comment

              • #8
                Yes, it has always been this way.

                I'll give it another adjustment and see if it helps.

                What kind of motor oil are you guys using. I used the 4 stroke cycle oil because I read somewhere standard car motor oil could cause the clutch plates to slip. Maybe that's what I need
                My heros have always been flat trackers.

                Comment

                • #9
                  That oil is fine, several use it.

                  Did you check your steels for any warpage?
                  Nathan
                  KD9ARL

                  μολὼν λαβέ

                  1978 XS1100E
                  K&N Filter
                  #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                  OEM Exhaust
                  ATK Fork Brace
                  LED Dash lights
                  Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
                  Green Monster Coils
                  SS Brake Lines
                  Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                  In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                  Theodore Roosevelt

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Mashermoto View Post
                    Yes, it has always been this way.

                    I'll give it another adjustment and see if it helps.

                    What kind of motor oil are you guys using. I used the 4 stroke cycle oil because I read somewhere standard car motor oil could cause the clutch plates to slip. Maybe that's what I need
                    So you did replace the steels when you were in the clutch? Who is the manufacture of the steels? I've read about another member having a similar problem after he replaced his clutch pack with Barnett friction plates and steels. His said they were grabby at one spot like they were warped...
                    '79 XS11 F
                    Stock except K&N

                    '79 XS11 SF
                    Stock, no title.

                    '84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
                    GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws

                    "What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      I didn't replace the steel plates. My records show I replaced clutch plates and clutch springs purchased at Parts-N-More.

                      As I recall the steels were fine.
                      My heros have always been flat trackers.

                      Comment

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