im still having problems with carb.

[The Youngster]

im still having problems with carb.

Im still having problems with #1carb carb. I cleaned the floats very thoroughly. But the #1 carb is still leaking gas. I think i might take it in. Since i seam to cant fix it.

[graybird78]

you may need to replace the needles and seat in the carbs. had same problem with my sg . new needles and seats fixed it . they even looked good when disassembled. just a wast of money to pay someone to do it take your time clean everything till it cant be cleaned any more. the money u save can go for repairs.dont give up yet. these carbs need to be super clean

[graybird78]

almost forgot , may need to trim float bowl gasket so it doesnt interfear with float arms. some of the carb gurus hopefully will chime in

[The Youngster]

Ok thank you. Know where i can find some without ebay???

[Shacknasty]

Dude, seriously, stop making new threads and clean yer damn carbs. All yer fuel troubles will be fixed when you have them, yer fuel lines and gas tank thoroughly clean.

[The Youngster]

Its not the fuel lines or gas tank i already cleaned the gas tank with cleaning solution and cleaned all the hose with compressed air. The float is giving me trouble in the first carb. All the rest of the carbs are fine. And sorry i dont this site very well.

[Shacknasty]

Don't mind me, I'm a grumpy old fart.

The old tap (gently) on the side of the bowl as it fills will sometimes help the float to rise and shut off the valve. I prefer to remove the bowl and find out why the float isn't moving smoothly, where it's hanging up. Sometimes the float is gummy where the pivot pin slides through.

When I'm doing a complete carb strip and clean it takes a full 24 hours. After teardown the brass parts get soaked in carb dip and the bodies get shot with cleaner and blasted with compressed air several times. Every piece is inspected as the carb goes back together and each system is checked. I've learned it's better to err on the side of caution.

[natemoen]

Yup, you are going to need to gently remove each and every needle and seat from under the floats. You will have to replace the o-ring around each seat and replace the needles. They have a viton tip and that gets dried out and also get a ring pressed into the material over time from being seated.

Georgefix on ebay is who most of us get carb parts from.
http://stores.ebay.com/GEORGEFIXS-MOTORCYCLE-PARTS

There is also SCI.
http://www.siriusconinc.com/

Boats.net
http://www.boats.net/

Parts&More
http://www.partsnmore.com/

MikesXS
www.mikesxs.net

I do agree though, you need to use the same thread from a problem, start to finish. Then we know what has been done or not. If you keep opening new threads for the same thing you will just keep getting the same responses because that is what you try first.

[DGXSER]

There is also a rubber O-ring around the float valve that can go bad over time. Even though your bike sat for sooo long, the rubber parts actually get worse from lack of use. I always tell folks, sitting for 30 years is harder on bikes than riding them for 50,000 miles. Especially the rubber bits and parts.

If you go to a Harbor Freight, you can pick up a box of Nitrile O-rings for about $3. The set has the right sized o-rings in it to replace the ones for the float needle valve seats. The tricky part is getting those valve seats to pull out without deforming them. New ones are readily available though.

As Shack stated, I always trim the gasket on the sides of the bowls, use a good sharp razor blade and trim the gasket to the edge of the float bowl so none hangs over to catch the float.

There are alot of places you can re-use the existing stuff or let things slide and it will work well enough for now on these bikes, unfortunately the carbs are not one of them. You can re-use all the jets, just clean them in carb-dip, you can get a gallon can of the stuff at most autoparts stores for about $20. Typically I do replace the float valve needle and seats, and the o-rings in the idle mixture screws. You do not want to go through all thsi with the carbs only to pull them 3-6 months from now for those parts. Just my Opinion.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there again,

Okay, I MERGED your thread again with your previous one. When you have a new/related problem, just find your previous thread, go to the last page, and then click on REPLY....NOT NEW THREAD, and then you can ADD to the thread....create a NEW TITLE so that we can tell it's a bit different or new but related problem, and then we can see what you've done, what has already been suggested, etc..

ALSO...when you come back to the forum to review what has been posted in your thread, click on the icon on the LEFT of the page, this will take you to the last UNREAD by you reply in your thread. If you click on the icon on the right of the forum/thread listing then it just takes you to the LAST REPLY in the thread....and if you don't go back and read the replies since your last reply, then you will miss a lot of info....ie. several folks mentioned about needing to take out the float, needle, and seat and replace both the rubber/viton tipped needle AND the O-ring around the seat.

Also, you didn't specify whether you actually took the carbs well apart...all of the jets(pilot and main) along with the emulsion tube, the pilot Idle Screw, etc.? We are glad that you are wanting to learn about working on your bike as well as cars, but you need to possibly SLOW DOWN a little, take the time to READ what others have posted, and then reply accordingly with the appropriate info of what you have done, etc.!

The Fuel lines if old rubber deteriorate on the INSIDE, and little particles will break off and flow down INTO the carbs, and can get lodged between the float needle and valve seat causing leaking/flooding. SO...inline filters are highly suggested along with replacing the OLD rubber fuel lines with NEW lines of your choice....ie. Tigon or Silicone/rubber from the local bike shop, even fuel line from the local auto parts store....the single walled stuff, and the little cone shaped inline filters work just fine....1/4" ID size hose, or possibly a little smaller can help make a really snug fit that won't come off/slip off easily!

It's info like this that can be missed that can have you chasing your tail with the carbs and other components if you don't know about it!

T.C.

[The Youngster]

Hey there again,

Okay, I MERGED your thread again with your previous one. When you have a new/related problem, just find your previous thread, go to the last page, and then click on REPLY....NOT NEW THREAD, and then you can ADD to the thread....create a NEW TITLE so that we can tell it's a bit different or new but related problem, and then we can see what you've done, what has already been suggested, etc..

ALSO...when you come back to the forum to review what has been posted in your thread, click on the icon on the LEFT of the page, this will take you to the last UNREAD by you reply in your thread. If you click on the icon on the right of the forum/thread listing then it just takes you to the LAST REPLY in the thread....and if you don't go back and read the replies since your last reply, then you will miss a lot of info....ie. several folks mentioned about needing to take out the float, needle, and seat and replace both the rubber/viton tipped needle AND the O-ring around the seat.

Also, you didn't specify whether you actually took the carbs well apart...all of the jets(pilot and main) along with the emulsion tube, the pilot Idle Screw, etc.? We are glad that you are wanting to learn about working on your bike as well as cars, but you need to possibly SLOW DOWN a little, take the time to READ what others have posted, and then reply accordingly with the appropriate info of what you have done, etc.!

The Fuel lines if old rubber deteriorate on the INSIDE, and little particles will break off and flow down INTO the carbs, and can get lodged between the float needle and valve seat causing leaking/flooding. SO...inline filters are highly suggested along with replacing the OLD rubber fuel lines with NEW lines of your choice....ie. Tigon or Silicone/rubber from the local bike shop, even fuel line from the local auto parts store....the single walled stuff, and the little cone shaped inline filters work just fine....1/4" ID size hose, or possibly a little smaller can help make a really snug fit that won't come off/slip off easily!

It's info like this that can be missed that can have you chasing your tail with the carbs and other components if you don't know about it!

T.C.

Im actually sending the carbs to get rebuilt. And yes i also ordered a repair manual for my xs11. And reason why im sending them in is that i might break them or strip a bolt or so. But the the #1problem is really the one thats giving me trouble. The rest of the carbs are fine besides it reving so dang high. Even my uncle couldn't figure it out. And yes we adjusted the carbs. Worked for a while be then went up to 6,000 rpm in a instant. Im 15a and here in gallup i believe i can get my permit to ride. And my Uncle rides into town so i can par up with him. So i kinda need this going. There will always be time to give her some tlc. Iv done what i can. For now.

[Shacknasty]

When ya get yer clean carbs back, one thing you will need to do is synchronize yer carbs. That is often one reason for high idle. Take the time to search and read a couple of threads on the subject. You can build yer own synch tool or buy a ready-made one. I love my Carbtune!

The SOP is to synch, adjust idle mix screws, and synch again. When ya get there the crew here can walk ya through it. Good luck.

[jjz28]

i havent read all of this so if someone already said this, sorry but the reason it had no gas may be because its in the oil. I always check my oil level before i crank it. I emptied a whole tank in the crankcase and caught it before i cranked it. There was still some on the floor too. I hope that didnt happen but i would say it is very likely since you had gas flow into the filter, i hope you changed the oil.

[James England]

Im actually sending the carbs to get rebuilt.

BAD idea, IMO. Do it yourself. Bite the bullet, be confident and that's how you learn. You have loads of help here. You could end up having them rebuilt and find they are still useless (I did). I bought a set of 'refurbished' carbs from the USA which were an abomination. Like you, I'd thought it better not to do it myself. The ones I received were appalling (Spyder Cycle Works) and I never did get to the bottom of how they sent me such a mess, with carbs full of blasting grit, leaking fuel, missing components, painted with petrol soluble paint, loose float bowls. I'd paid import duty on them and the shipping and I got no explanation whatsoever as to why they'd sent me such a mess.

I ended up rebuilding the carbs myself and they worked immediately and correctly.

[DGXSER]

I am certain your uncle is a good mechanic, and probably thought of this. The two most common reasons for these bikes to jump up to a high idle like that are a vacuum leak, or lack of synchronizing the carbs.

The next most common issues would be a very lean mixture, and the throttle cable being stuck on one of the clamps/screws for the carb boots.

Perfectly clean and sorted carbs will not cure any of those issues.