Originally posted by fredintoon
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im still having problems with carb.
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Glad you got it running. I have learned that when I put fuel in the empty carbs I work one side at a time. I turn on the fuel and use the handle of a screwdriver to tap on the fuel bowls as they fill. Just to make sure the floats do not get stuck on the sides or cocked funny on their pin. When I am sure the bowls are full, I turn the fuel off. Switch sides and repeat. Then I start the engine before I turn the fuel back on.
So far, that method has worked well for me.Life is what happens while your planning everything else!
When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.
81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection
Previously owned
93 GSX600F
80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
81 XS1100 Special
81 CB750 C
80 CB750 C
78 XS750
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Originally posted by Shacknasty View PostProlly means yer carbs are dirty and the float valves are sticking open. Clean 'em good while yer in there. Remove and clean all jets and passages. Check yer oil, if it smells like fuel, change oil and filter.
Glad to hear it's running.
With fuel dumping out of the air box it may be getting into the motor oil.......and killing your motor, Get those carbs cleaned.......I have a buddy that will do it for you if you can't. You don't want to mess up the lowest mile midnight in the USA! PM me if you want his info and I'll tell him about you.79 XS11 Special (Lazarus)
80 XS850 Special (Old Faithful)
80 XS11 Standard sorta stock (Beatrice)
79 DT 100
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I would agree with the cleaning. Here is a step by step pictorial thread on the carbs.
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36017
Then once you get that done you need to sync the carbs.Nathan
KD9ARL
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Hey there Youngster,
First, congrats on your wonderful find and acquisition.
Secondly, as you stated, this is your first bike, but we don't know what level of mechanical experience or knowledge you have, and even though the bike has low miles, it is 30 years old, and you can't expect to just put gas in it, turn the key and drive/ride off on it.
There is a thread in the MISC forum that tells what to look for in a neglected XS11 because that bike is STILL NEGLECTED since hasn't been ridden, and they do DRY ROT just sitting in a garage.
Lastly, to help US help you we request that you keep your requests IN THE SAME THREAD when it's the same type of problem, carbs, revving, etc. so that we can see what was an earlier problem, what has been suggested, what you have done, and the results of said work and diagnostics without having to remember or refer to OTHER threads spread out across the site.
Like has been stated, you WILL NEED to take the carbs off the bike, pull them apart, clean them, put in some new parts like the float valve needle and the O-ring around the valve seat. However, if you don't have many tools, or are not fairly skilled or even familiar with basic mechanical processes, then an OLD bike like this may not be the machine for you?
We would highly recommend/suggest that you find someone..another Xsive in your area to link up with to assist you in working on this machine so you can LEARN the right way to do it, and you won't damage it ACCIDENTALLY in the process. And being your first bike, we also hope you will or have already taken the MSF(Motorcycle Safety Foundation) riders course in your area, to keep you ALIVE on the dangerous roads with the blind, self absorbed, distracted cage drivers out there!
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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Fuel Leaks = Fire Hazard
Just a reminder about the HAZARD of these bikes leaking gas. Especially the most notorious Airbox / Petcocks / Fuel Line. If the bike isn't running properly I wouldn't Test-My-Luck trying to run it when you already know you have issues with Needle & Seat plus Petcocks. Just a friendly word of advise. After Marty's experience I keep hose and a fire extinguisher near the bike for the first start up after any maintenance. Maybe a bit over cautious but I'd hate to burn down the house or myself when we know these bikes a bit prone to leaking and catching fire from backfire or electrical spark. I found the airbox in my 78E project bike I bought 6 months ago had a fire too but luckily there was not too much damage.
Here is post from jetmechmarty about his "fire" experience that he posted when Special Ed's bike recently got fried.
Originally posted by jetmechmarty View PostBummer, Ed. I set mine on fire too! Lucky for me, my daughter was with me and fast to grab the fire bottle. It happens quick, but she saved it. When there are fuel problems with these bikes (leaks) it's easy to set them on fire! Maybe we should have warnings posted all over this forum. I had one friend have it happen while he was riding! He got pulled over, then watched his GS850 burn to the ground.
Good Luck with the troubleshooting and maintenance. Be Safe!
Jeff78' XS1100 E
78' XS1100 E
78' XS1100 E
'73 Norton 850 Commando
'99 Triumph Sprint ST
'02 G-Wing GL1800
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I see, iv been very careful with the fuel problem. My head is just spinning cuz of the carb #1. The float is stuck open but the rest are fine. I finally pulled the crabs out. I cleaned the rest with gas and lots of scrubbing. And yes i was very careful with the needles. So now im going to tackle disassembly of the floats now that i have cleaned the carbs.81 LH
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Hey again,
I didn't read your introduction post until AFTER I had read and replied to this one!SO...I see that you do have mechanical skills, that's a PLUS!
Now, on to your carb...yeah, those nasty CRABS can be a real PITA!
Did you read thru the Carb tech tip/thread that the link was posted for??
The reason why I ask is that WITHOUT taking off the floats, you can't get to the float valve and seat and O-ring. And did you remove the pilot and main jet, and then the emulsion tube=main jet needle that comes up thru the carb body? There's also a screen filter on the inside part of the valve seat. You may have corrosion or just gum that has gotten between the float and the pin it pivots on, which could also cause it to stick, not move. Also, there are several good tips and techniques to removing the float pin WITHOUT braking the post....a common occurance because Yamaha designed the pin to be too thick and provide an interference type fit, but the float bowl will keep the pin from falling/sliding out, so the pin does not need to be so tight. Folks will use fine emory paper or such to file down the width of the pin enough to allow it to easily slide thru the float post holes so that you won't have the problem and chance of breaking the posts the next timen you need to disassemble them in the future.
Good luck, just take your time, be careful and thorough and you'll get it done and eventually working.
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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I see. I missed that. But yes TopCatGr58. Iv been working on cars for a couple of years. Iv help my uncle work on his motorcycles and he showed me alot. And i also have another motorcycle project but its a different model. Im planning on becoming a car and a motorcycle mechanic. So im trying to learn alot while i have time.81 LH
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