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    Ran across this thread while checking out a paint. Seemed like a bunch of good tips and some different pro's and con's. Sorry if this should go in a different area of the forums but I thought it was worth sharing and interested in others trials and errors.


    http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21230
    81 H

  • #2
    Rustoleum paint is like any other paint; it's only as good as it's application. It does dry extremely slow, but my experience is if it's applied right it's very durable. To see success stories, do a search for '$50 paint job'...
    Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

    '78E original owner - resto project
    '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
    '82 XJ rebuild project
    '80SG restified, red SOLD
    '79F parts...
    '81H more parts...

    Other current bikes:
    '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
    '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
    '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
    Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
    Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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    • #3
      Here is the story of MY $50 paint job on my '92 Jeep Cherokee. I used Valspar OSHA Safety Yellow oil based. Thinned with mineral spirits. The actual painting was done in about 20 days. heated garage in the winter.

      It's been 3 years since I did this and the paint is VERY hard. I have spilled gas on it and it doesn't do too much damage. Mostly makes it dull.

      Would I use this method again? Probably not for a vehicle. It does need to be rubbed and waxed every 3 months or it gets very flat. But, the depth and shine are incredible when I am done.

      Onward..

      The subject: 1992 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4. 4.0. The day I purchased it of Craigslist for $200.



      Fixing the rust on the ol Jeep. Started with a simple exploratory hole and it evolved into this..



      Few days of metal-work and welding and there is new metal inside and out.



      Sanded the existing factory paint to bust thru the peeling clearcoat and to smooth out any pits.



      The supplies: 4 inch high density rollers, pans, paint and mineral spirits. Thin the paint till it's like milk. That's the secret.



      Oh what have I done! This was the first 2 coats ROLLED on.



      Here is the 7th coat. I wet sanded every OTHER coat with 600 and 800 grit paper.



      Here is the door with 7 coats. On my way to 22.



      Here it is about 3 weeks later.. 22 coats wet sanded. This was BEFORE I used rubbing compound and wax.



      I then used Herculiner on the new rockers and bottoms of the doors etc..



      Here is my Jeep as it is today. Paint is EXTREMELY durable but goes dull in a few weeks after buffing.




      Im thinking of stripping it down and doing a basecoat/clearcoat in the same color. This method does work! But, you are trading your time and muscles for money and 2 step paint.

      Feel free to ask any questions!
      1) Fire up Internet Explorer
      2) http://www.yahoo.com
      3) type "www.mapquest.com" into the Yahoo search page.
      4) go about day as VP managing multi-million dollar financial contracts.

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      • #4
        Nice job on the Jeep, get some green on it and you can sell it to one of us Packer fans..lol.

        As far as painting, I guess the one thing that I learned was prep work is 80% of the job. See what happens this winter I guess.
        81 H

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