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is it necessary to remove the rubber plug and push in on the tensioner to correctly adjust the cam chain tension? the factory manual says nothing about removing the plug during the adjustment procedure but one of the more experienced guys on this forum says that i need to. i believe he certainly knows what he's talking about but i'm curious as to why the book misses this step. any other opinions? thanks from a newbie
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Experienced?..................actually clueless. The plug is supossed to be permanently in there so oil doesn't leak out. No pressure there, but still will leak there. If you been reading any recent threads, you'll see a couple folks so far that chose NOT to swap out the POS stock tensioner for one of the auto tensioners......results......bent valves. Keep pushin' your luck and your bike WILL be amongst them. BTW, in the future, any questions, ask some of us here who have had and been around these scoots since their conception and longer. Will save yourself alot of unnecessary grief.......just sayin'....Originally posted by 650mark View PostLast edited by motoman; 08-18-2012, 04:32 PM.81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top. -
+1 on what moto says. Leave the plug alone, and SERIOUSLY start looking for an auto tensioner. You can still find them real cheap.
Just today someone found 2 bent valves after he pulled the head cause his stock tensioner gave up.Nathan
KD9ARL
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
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With those OEM tensioners, I have occationally pushed in on the plunger with a screwdriver when adjusting to make sure it is not siezed/frozen in place and is actually capable of taking slack out of the chain. If there is zero movement, it is either stuck/gummed up or at the end of it's travel range. It is good piece of mind, JMHO. By all means when you get the chance, upgrade to the auto unit, set it and forget it, and they won't ever leak oil.2H7 (79) owned since '89
3H3 owned since '06
"If it ain't broke, modify it"
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Get rid of it. They're rubbish. The auto CCT is the way to go. Get one from a V-Max... there's two on those bikes and they go straight on, without having to elongate one of the mounting holes.XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.Comment
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