CCT question

[XSive Okie]

I still have the stock CCT for now, but when adjusting it, is there any moving parts to tell you that it's actually doing it's job? And can they eventually run out of adjustment and require replacing. I'm an old overhead valve kind of guy and haven't had to deal with these much before.

[natemoen]

Nope. Nothing to look at.

[James England]

There's nothing to indicate that it's working/not working other than excessive camchain noise if it's not working properly. Personally, I would replace it with a V-Max auto CCT. It's a straight bolt-on fit and much better than the feeble OEM one.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Richard,

Looks like folks didn't want to type much!

As stated, from the outside you can't see anything to tell. IF the adjustment had not been done in a while, AND the chain had developed some slack, THEn when you unlocked the plunger securing bolt, you might have been able to hear a click sound as the plunger was released and the spring tension caused it to pop into position against the chain guide.

And yes, as things wear, the adjuster can run out of adjustment room, but it's NOT the adjuster that gets replaced, but the actual cam chain because it's stretched beyond it's service limits! The chain can be replaced without pulling the head or splitting the cases.

The ACCT(Automatic Cam Chain Tensioners) that have been discovered to fit our engines often provide a longer plunger travel, and can allow the engine to run more miles before the tensioner reaches it's max. travel.

SO...what you CAN do is leave the oem Adjuster nuts/bolts LOCKED, and remove the complete housing. Then notate/measure how far out the plunger has travelled, and then you can unlock the bolt/locknut and see how much farther the plunger can travel to see how close to the end of it's travel you are, which will also indicate how much chain stretch has occured, and how close you may be to needing to replace the chain.

Due to the possibility of the chain already having worn/stretched some, it's recommended to remove the cam valve cover, and of course have the bike on the centerstand, use the CCT adjustment procedure to have the engine on the "C" mark prior to pulling the CCT housing. There is a chance that the slack chain can drop around the crank sprocket and skip a tooth once the CCT is removed and the tension against the chain guide is released, so having the valve cover off, and slightly rotating the exhaust cam CW a little as you SLOWLY remove the CCT will allow it to take up the chain slack on the CCT side.

Then if you find there's lots of plunger movement left, I would reset it to the depth that it was when you removed it. The BOOK says to compress the plunger and lightly lock the bolt, reinstall and then release the bolt to let it spring out. But if there's some chain slack, I would reinstall the CCT with the plunger already deployed at it's position, and as you slowly hand tighten the housing bolts, you can also slowly rotate the exhaust cam CCW to allow the slack to again return to the CCT side of the engine. Once the CCT housing is torqued in position, would AGAIN go thru the CCT adjustment procedure to give the CCT the chance to take up any remaining slack that you might be able to create with another round of rotating the engine and aligning with the "C" mark. With the valve cover off you can verify the timing is correct with the "T" mark and cam dots. Don't forget to inspect the plunger shaft for any burrs and such and gently file/sand them smooth before reassembling.

HTH!? T.C.

[BA80]

Read HERE for the solution.

[TopCatGr58]

Here's the Tech Tip MOD for the MANUAL version, you can also find the tip for the ACCT in the same forum as well.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35497

[XSive Okie]

Thank you

Appreciate the info, gentleman! I plan on switching to the automatic in the future, but have other more important issues that get my dollars first. Need brakes all the way around, and it's time for another rear tire.