Hi, has anyone out there replaced the four round lights on the Vetter trunks(81ish) for LED's? They are 2 and 5/16 inch diameter. If anyone has which LED's did you use. It's kinda uncool to be cruisin' along with flickering lights cos of the worn out sockets so i would like the swap them out. Thanks in advance. Vic.
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Hey Wrench Twister,
I've read and seen photos on here of folks who have done that, don't know where they got them for sure, but this is a good place...I've selected the Truck Lights, scroll down the page you'll find the 2.5" diam. clearance marker lights, but they also have 4" and even 6" SCHOOL BUS size if you want to go big!
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...uck_lights.htm
Because of their very low current draw I would suggest wiring them in series to help provide and keep a good amount of resistance in the line, hooking them up in parallel will actually DROP the resistance.
T.C.T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
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Others have swapped to the 6" oval led tail lights.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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I rebuilt the stock light fixtures and used 1157 LED bulbs. I removed the fixtures from the trunk and took each one apart and cleaned them. You say yours are "worn out", but unless the plastic is broken, the bulbs actually just make contact with a blob of solder and a spring that you can easily repair/clean. I soldered in new wires and used a 4-port plug from Radio Shack to replace the OEM plug on the trunk. I made a little pigtail that plugged into the bike wiring under the seat, and runs to the trunk plug.
Here is the inside of the trunk, looking at one of the fixtures:
Last edited by CatatonicBug; 08-14-2012, 09:28 AM.1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).
Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. Ford
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Originally posted by CatatonicBug View PostNathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
Comment
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Originally posted by natemoen View PostI will never suggest anyone EVER use those connectors unless it is an absolute last resort emergency! They ruin good sure and open it up for corrosion in the near future. They are just the lazy man's connector, and absolutely the wrong way to join wires!1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).
Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. Ford
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Originally posted by CatatonicBug View PostI don't see what's wrong with them. Granted, they aren't the best choice for "wet" area connectors, but they are what is supplied by most aftermarket vehicle electronics manufacturers for tapping into existing wiring. You always have the option of dabbing the connection point with delectric grease before crimping them down if you're worried about corrosion.
I have spent too much time in my life fixing what people ruin with those connectors. Those connectors are marginal at best, in even the best situation. They will never be used on anything I own!Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
Comment
-
Originally posted by CatatonicBug View PostI soldered in new wires and used a 4-port plug from Radio Shack to replace the OEM plug on the trunk. I made a little pigtail that plugged into the bike wiring under the seat, and runs to the trunk plug.
Thanks
JohnJohn is in an anonymous city with an Alamo (N29.519227,W-98.678980)
Go ahead, click on the bikes - you know you want to...the electrons are ready.
'81 XS1100H - "Enterprise"
Bob Jones Custom Navy bike: Tkat brace, EBC floating rotors & SS lines, ROX pivot risers, Geezer rectifier, new 3H3 engine
"Not all treasure is silver and gold"
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Originally posted by jwhughes3 View PostBug - I like the idea of adding the plug extension to keep existing wiring intact.
Thanks
John1980 XS850SG - Sold
1981 XS1100LH Midnight Special (Sold) - purchased 9/29/08
Fully Vetterized and Dynojet Kit added, Heated Grips, Truck-Lite LED headlight, Accel Coils, Irridium plugs, TKAT Fork Brace, XS850LH Final Drive & Black SS Brake lines from Chacal.
Here's my web page devoted to my bike! XS/XJ User's Manuals there, and the XJ1100 Service Manual and both XS1100 Service manuals (free download!).
Whether you think you can, or you think you cannot - You're right.
-H. Ford
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