Originally posted by Majortomxx
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The great camchain debacle of 2012, rotated engine CCW during cam chain adjustment
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XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Any year VMax tensioner is plug and play. You should be able to get 2 (the bike had 2 and they usually sell them as a pair) for 30 or less shipped.
Go back through and check the torque on your exhaust stud nuts (dont over torque them). Another thing to check is that you have your advance hooked up to the carb body and not the intake boot. If its hooked to the intake boot it will pulsate too hard and make the advance bounce and make a clack sound under the cover...'79 XS11 F
Stock except K&N
'79 XS11 SF
Stock, no title.
'84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws
"What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~
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So last update on all these problems and a quick synopsis for anyone who finds themselves in a similar situation.
Because I was unable to rotate the engine, I had to remove all the bearing caps over each cam. This allowed the cams to rotate without depressing the valve lifters and I was able to get the sprocket bolts out.
A valuable tool to have on hand is one of those 12 dollar telescopic magnet wands. One of those bolts fell into a cylinder and I was able to pluck it out no problem, I imagine this would be a help if something fell elsewhere in the engine.
With the cams out I was able to reset the timing and reconnect the sprockets and chain. Sort of a pain to do.
The finger suck/blow test passed so I felt confident to start it up after ensùing the cam timing was still good.( many many manual rotations).
The tapping sound I reported is from having one bolt not tight enough on the valve cover, tightening it up fixed that. I did notice an exhaust leak on cylinder 4 with contributed to that sound. Started it up and it runs without problem
Anyway. I'm on the look out for a vmax tensioner while slowly getting the carbs in tune.
I want to thank everyone for their guidance and assistance. I was so panicked and you guys really saved the day.80 SG Jardine 4-1
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