i just dont understand this bike...

[airborneXS]

Ive been doing a lot to her lately, ill update with pics soon...I cleaned and rejetted the carbs, went to stock and it ran too lean, so i went up to 142.5 and 42.5...i also fab'd some velocity stacks out of pvc elbows to eliminate the crappy pods air blocking...my 4-1 kerker that came with it had some major laks, and i wanted something a little muscle-bike like, so i used stock headers and fab'd a custom 4-2 with internal baffles built in...i use to have a problem at wot, where it would just sputter, pop, and stumble; the same problem usually kicks in round 6k rpms as well...I figured after I built a non leaking exhaust and tuned the carbs it would eliminate this problem, but its still there...just cant figure it out....

[Crazy Damian]

I had similiar problem

i had almost the exact same symptoms on my bike, but I have the OEM headers with no muffler, and no airbox or air filter at this time, i have 45 Pilot Jets and 142.5 main jets.
First double, triple heck check it 4 times, but check the float levels, that fixed all of my problems until I put the crappy cheapo pods on, so usually right now I don't have any air filter on at all. Turned out with the pods on there, even with the floats set correctly my bike was running too rich at WOT, it also backfired a lot and wouldn't cruise at highway speeds without backfiring and stuttering.

Damian

[GTXS1100]

That is a good place to start mine was the opposite. My floats were not right and i had problems where it wouldnt run over 3k. I have open headers and pods. Once i fixed the floats it ran fine. Alot of guys say exhaust will affect how it runs but i never had a problem out of mine after i got her synced. Make sure your carbs are perfect before trying much else. Also the pick up wires in your timming advance can go bad too. Just another thing to check. Good luck. I love when you figure it out and its like "I cant belive that fixed it."

[airborneXS]

ive checked the pick up wires before, they were fine ( i believe) also i checked my floats and they appeared to be good...hmmm

[GLoweVA]

Wolf, With a bike name like "Loki" (the god of trickery) then I'd assume that the bike is messing with you. LOL

Is it starving for fuel at WOT/6Krpm?
Maybe with that much demand on it, the petcocks/filters/octy/gas cap vent just can't keep up.
Just a thought.

[DookieTx1911]

I worked on a friend's bike the other day and if I hadn't been looking for it I would have missed a ton.

Most people, when working on carbs, keep everything separate for each carb and when finished, everything goes back where it should. Carbs 1 and 2 had the emulsion tubes for 2 and 3, none of the floats were set the same and the "tech" who performed service previously failed to ensure that the carb boots were tight.

Oh, and the idle mix screws for 3 and 4 were broken off and stuck in their carbs.

I second the "First double, triple heck check it 4 times" sentiment.

[ManagerMike]

When you were in the carbs did you change the needle clip settings? If you did, put them back to stock position. High rpm / high throttle angle performance issues are affected by the mains and the needles. Also as you have the carbs out to recheck float height you can easily check the function of the needle diaphrams by holding the throttle wide open and applying compressed air to the inlet side of each carb from about 6-8" simulating the airflow of high rpm, if the diaphrams are good and the air jets clear you will see the needle rise with the compressed air flowing through the carb.
If one or more of the needles does not lift, its diaphram may be torn or perforated or simply mispositioned and not sealing.
This, to my understanding, is how the lip of the pod filter partially obstructing the air jet can adversly affect performance, the neddles rise too late and/or not far enough.
Please anyone let me know if I have the wrong understanding of the function of the air jet.

[Crazy Damian]

Flow

When you have no air filters on and no muffler, it increases the rate at which the air and fuel mixture flows through from the carbs to the exhaust.
In my case, when I put the pod filters on, it caused my bike to run rich, less air, but because there is no backpreassure from a muffler, it was sucking up more gas thourgh the main jets because the pods were restricting the air. Had I put the pods on and put on a muffler that created some back preassure it may have worked better the back preassure doesn;t let the exhaust flow out as fast.
You said you looked at the floats, I suggest actually measuring them I personally have a small metal slide ruller with a level on it, and I just lock the screw at the MM level I want the floats and check each side and adjust accordingly. That float level make a HUGE difference.
Also as someone else mentioned before, if you have adjusted the Jet Needle, set it back to stock.

Damian

[airborneXS]

been trying little things here and there...i noticed that the tank, if its been sitting without a full tank of fuel, has small amounts of rust. i have emgo aluminum body inline filters, the ones with the washable brass colored filter screens. im not sure if the rust is getting by the filters and clogging up my freshly cleaned carbs or what?

[bikerphil]

If the rust is getting thru, you will find it sitting in the bottom of the carb bowls.

[Rasputin]

Ive been doing a lot to her lately, ill update with pics soon...I cleaned and rejetted the carbs, went to stock and it ran too lean, so i went up to 142.5 and 42.5...i also fab'd some velocity stacks out of pvc elbows to eliminate the crappy pods air blocking...my 4-1 kerker that came with it had some major laks, and i wanted something a little muscle-bike like, so i used stock headers and fab'd a custom 4-2 with internal baffles built in...i use to have a problem at wot, where it would just sputter, pop, and stumble; the same problem usually kicks in round 6k rpms as well...I figured after I built a non leaking exhaust and tuned the carbs it would eliminate this problem, but its still there...just cant figure it out....

You are changing too many things at once to know which one affects it correctly. If you change carb settings then you deal with carbs. If you change exhaust then you deal with exhaust issues. If you fabbed some velocity stacks then you have to discover what it changed and why. If you have had leaks in your exhaust then you have to discover why it affected your ride. If you Fabbed a custom 4-2 exhaust then you will have to deal with that as you have changed everything we know of. Seriously give us one single point of referance to deal with and we can go from there.
We can always help but sometimes your posts are harder to grasp than a mexican jumping bean.

[Rooster]

sad but true

All the mods at one time can make it so hard to nail down what is causing the problem, I've always been told to be patient and go one modification at a time. Is there any chance of reversing some of the changes and getting the bike closer to the stock setup and then working the gremlins out, changing something testing tuning then changing another? It sucks to go backward when you've made progress forward but when it run like crap and is defying your efforts back tracking may be the only way forward.