Tubeless?

[trbig]

My issue isn't so much a safety issue on tube VS tubeless. On either, a flat tire is a flat tire, but as much as I'm on the road, with a tubeless tire, an air compressor, a plug, and maybe 5 minutes is the extent of a flat fix. I know many of your thoughts on tire plugs, but I've run them too many thousands of miles without problem personally to worry about it. Many will use a plug temporarily until they can get a patch on the inside, but the vulcanizing of the sticky stuff on the plug to the broken chords in your tire is something I prefer. They also have plug/patch combinations that go through the hole from the inside that probably would be best, but it takes more for some than others for peace of mind. YMMV and you could probably have as much discussion on this is a "What's the best oil" or "What's the best tires" thread.

[crazy steve]

Even more confusing to draw any sort of conclusion on is Yamahas take on it all. If you look on Brians (Lamric) parts site Yamaha numbers for a front wheel are the same for tubed and tubless if you look down the list of other bikes the front wheel fits Clicky or dya think thats the -10 on the end of the part number??

That's the one big shortcoming of looking in the parts fiche; it lists 'service replacement' parts, not what actually came on the bike, so it doesn't reflect 'production line' changes. Yamaha discontinued the 'tube' wheels in early '79 so if you bought a new replacement after that time you'd get a 'tubeless' wheel.

There's lots of discrepancies like that; mechanical advance units, master cylinders, and exhaust systems to name a few that I've verified that differ in construction/design between years but have the same 'replacement' part numbers...

[BA80]

My issue isn't so much a safety issue on tube VS tubeless. On either, a flat tire is a flat tire, but as much as I'm on the road, with a tubeless tire, an air compressor, a plug, and maybe 5 minutes is the extent of a flat fix. I know many of your thoughts on tire plugs, but I've run them too many thousands of miles without problem personally to worry about it. Many will use a plug temporarily until they can get a patch on the inside, but the vulcanizing of the sticky stuff on the plug to the broken chords in your tire is something I prefer. They also have plug/patch combinations that go through the hole from the inside that probably would be best, but it takes more for some than others for peace of mind. YMMV and you could probably have as much discussion on this is a "What's the best oil" or "What's the best tires" thread.

I have had issues with flats on the road. 2 flats on the rear on the way to The Lost Rally 3 years ago.

The best setup I've seen is what Bob Falter has. The plugs that expand on the inside when installed an the C02 cartridges to inflate the tire.

Gotta get me one of those

[trbig]

I have had issues with flats on the road. 2 flats on the rear on the way to The Lost Rally 3 years ago.

The best setup I've seen is what Bob Falter has. The plugs that expand on the inside when installed an the C02 cartridges to inflate the tire.

Gotta get me one of those

I've got one you can have. It'll take probably 3 CO2 cartridges to fill your tire. Between it and a box of CO2 cartridges that aren't the safest thing to be rattling around, they really didn't take up any less room than my small Honda air compressor that's a little smaller than a sandwich. It takes the same plug-in as most battery tenders, so you can have easy access if needed since most leave that pigtail attached to the bike/battery, or you can use the included jumper cables. It looks a lot like this one.

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/mi...rt/SLIME-50001

[TomB]

Yamaha discontinued the 'tube' wheels in early '79 .

Not so sure on that one, there are lots of '82 bikes over here with tube type wheels.

The tubeless type front wheel in your wheels thread is the same as an XS750 tube type front wheel I bought with tube.

I can't wait to be inside them wheels now, I ain't pulling good tyres off yet though, but all interesting stuff, I'll have to compare the XJ11 front wheel with the two different XS11 wheels I have.

The toolbox is another good example of the parts numbers being a bit out, theres two different tool boxes but only one number






.

[BA80]

I've got one you can have. It'll take probably 3 CO2 cartridges to fill your tire. Between it and a box of CO2 cartridges that aren't the safest thing to be rattling around, they really didn't take up any less room than my small Honda air compressor that's a little smaller than a sandwich. It takes the same plug-in as most battery tenders, so you can have easy access if needed since most leave that pigtail attached to the bike/battery, or you can use the included jumper cables. It looks a lot like this one.

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/mi...rt/SLIME-50001

I wouldn't think the cartridges would be any more unsafe to carry than 4 gallons of gas in between your legs. And, the cartridges would be much quicker to fill a tire.

[motoman]

I have had issues with flats on the road. 2 flats on the rear on the way to The Lost Rally 3 years ago.

The best setup I've seen is what Bob Falter has. The plugs that expand on the inside when installed an the C02 cartridges to inflate the tire.

Gotta get me one of those

The Stop&GoTirePluggerKit.........comes with everything in its own zipper bag. Has either 2 or 3 cartridges but I would add a few more to the kit as it takes bout 3 cartridges to fill tire. Haven't had any issues with its use, and have run a rear radial on my ST till it wore out with a plug installed. Has a mushroom on end that flattens to the inside when installed.

[trbig]

And, the cartridges would be much quicker to fill a tire.

Naw, not if you already have that pigtail attached. Plus, I can add air to my shocks and such if needed.

But.. like I said, it's yours if you want it... if I can find it. It went by the wayside when I got the pump.

[TomB]

I'd have thought the pump a better deal, if you get a slow puncture you can at least stop and re-inflate, with the cartridges once they're gone they're gone

[jwhughes3]

Ive picked up one of those small compressors from Harbor Freight and vulcanizing plugs for LD kit. I had thought about the CO2 (and may have one of the sons carry some on our trip) but didnt want to solely rely on it over many thousands of miles.

Here is a link

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt...sor-96068.html

And they are on sale!

John

[natemoen]

What kind of amp draw does you compressor pull Tod? I am a little concerned by the 15amp draw of the compressor I just picked up

[TomB]

180 watts is quite big your headlight is only 60W and apart from your starter motor (with biiiiig wires) is the biggest draw on the bike.

[trbig]

Nate, honestly, I don't know?? I have used it a couple times on my dirt bike, and it's never even tried to be tough to start afterwards, and it doesn't have NEAR the charging capacity our bikes have. BUT... it's not like you're going to be runnning down the road for a while with it on like a normal accessory. It doesn't take but a couple minutes to fill the tire. Even if it's slowly pulling down the battery, (You could put the bike in a high idle to help with that if you felt the need) it shouldn't be a problem for that little bit of time.



*Only thing I could find on it says it has an inline 15 amp fuse.. so obviously less than 15 amps? lol.

[natemoen]

I figured it would be good to have the engine reved while using it. Just don't know what I think about that draw though.

[jwhughes3]

Mine is 14 amps, prob same draw as Tod's. For the three minutes to fill a tire, that's 0.7 ampHr. On a 12 or 14 ampHr rated battery it shouldn't even notice it.

Now if its iffy battery to begin with, I might rev bike for the three minutes.

John