Weak flash on turn indicators

[jimbyjimb]

I have mentioned this before in other threads, BUT...

This is not a huge problem, but after searching the forums, I have a couple of questions.

At a tach-indicated 1100-RPM idle my turn signals don't like to flash, they just hold on steady. A slight increase in RPM fixes this. I have never had any problem with the charging system, checked it recently and found it to be completely fine. My fuse box (original) is clean and corrosion free. My battery hasn't died even once in 4 years.

In other threads i have read about Geezer's Reg/Rec and also fuse box replacement as being solutions to low RPM power problems. Is this flashing problem unique or a fairly common thing, and in your opinion is it worth replacing the original parts, even if they work 'fine,' to fix this issue.

Thanks.

[crazy steve]

It's a pretty common problem. It's caused by slightly degraded electrical connections in various places giving you just enough voltage loss so that at idle/low speeds they won't flash. Replacing the regulator can 'fix' it, but you're not really addressing the problem. Spend the time to check/clean all the connections (particularly the grounds for the lights, including the ground strap at the lamp socket) and the problem will very likely go away... without spending any money...

[BigRed]

Are you using the stock auto-canceling relay? I replaced mine with a new two prong electronic flasher relay (I think it was about $8 at my local automotive store) to be able to hand varying loads better (my removable side cases have flashers). Works great.

[CatatonicBug]

Steve is right. It's a very common problem, and easily fixed with a bit of patience and some dielectric grease. Go through every single electrical connection on the bike and clean them all. I use a spray called "Deox-It", then coat each connection with dielectric grease. The large engine ground straps can be dabbed with anti-sieze since it conducts electricity and there are no nearby connections to worry about shorting. Remember that the Reg/Rect actually grounds itself to the frame where it screws down, so remove it and clean the mounting points as well. Anti-sieze is good there too.

If you haven't yet replaced your fuse block, I strongly recommend that as well. The little clips that hold the glass fuses are likely rather weak, and add corrosion to the mix, and that can quickly reduce voltage.

[jimbyjimb]

Thanks guys. I'll add it to the winter list to do the fuse box and clean the connectors.

[natemoen]

Thanks guys. I'll add it to the winter list to do the fuse box and clean the connectors.

That fuse box is notoriously bad and leaves people stranded. It doesn't take long to swap out. I would say change it sooner rather than later!

[clcorbin]

I use a spray called "Deox-It", then coat each connection with dielectric grease.

I have to second "Deox-It". This stuff is GREAT! I have a remote that has a charge base with poorly designed contacts. Eventually, it gets to where the remote will not charge in the base, even with a weight on top. Nothing I do will clean the contacts to where it will charge again, but a light spritz of Deox-It, allow it to sit for a minute or so, then wipe clean takes care of the problem completely. At least for 6 months or so...

Very good stuff.