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  • Rear brake starts sticking after rides

    I've used the search feature and couldn't find any relative posts so I thought I'd ask in a new one.

    It seems like everything is fine before I ride. Granted there is a tiny bit of drag on the rear brake but, I'm hearing that is normal. After I ride it to work (20miles) it seems like the rear brake is half way pressed down. When I park the bike in the driveway, walk in the front door, open the garage and push the bike in....it drags a lot! To the point where it's rather hard to push it.

    Any ideas what this could be?

    Thanks!
    1979 XS1100 Special
    Jardine spaghetti pipes
    Chrome billet mirrors
    Custom seat (not sure who did it)
    Custom highway pegs (not sure on the maker)
    Braided lines
    Removable windscreen
    Iso grips

  • #2
    Can you reach down and pull the pedal up and release the rear brake when that happens?
    Greg

    Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

    ― Albert Einstein

    80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

    The list changes.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Twanginblues View Post
      .. Granted there is a tiny bit of drag on the rear brake but, I'm hearing that is normal...
      You've got more than a 'tiny bit' probably. After a ride, how hot is the brake rotor? Too hot to touch? If it is, the chances are good that your brake piston/pads aren't retracting enough and a rear brake rebuild in in your future. Could be either the caliper or the rear master cylinder, I'd disassemble/clean both. To narrow it down, after your next ride and if the brake is dragging, try 'cracking' the bleed screw on the rear caliper; if the brake now releases, it's the master cylinder.
      Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

      '78E original owner - resto project
      '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
      '82 XJ rebuild project
      '80SG restified, red SOLD
      '79F parts...
      '81H more parts...

      Other current bikes:
      '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
      '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
      '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
      Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
      Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

      Comment


      • #4
        What I was getting at Steve was the shaft that runs through the frame for the rear brake pedal may be rusted and sticking, holding the rear master cyl from releasing fully.
        Greg

        Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

        ― Albert Einstein

        80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

        The list changes.

        Comment


        • #5
          Granted, a rusty pedal shaft could be a contributing factor, but he says that 'everything is fine' before riding so I doubt that the pedal is releasing itself when the bike is sitting. More likely is a hot brake from dragging, which will give a low pedal...
          Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

          '78E original owner - resto project
          '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
          '82 XJ rebuild project
          '80SG restified, red SOLD
          '79F parts...
          '81H more parts...

          Other current bikes:
          '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
          '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
          '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
          Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
          Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

          Comment


          • #6
            I had the same thing happen. I pulled the rear MC and it was packed with gunk.
            Nate

            78 XS11 "Matilda" 2H7 000364

            2001 Raptor ACCT, T.C. Fuse Box, TC Bros Forward Controls
            Kuryakyn Iso Grips/Throttleboss/Bar End Mirror, Custom Covered Seat
            Shinko 712s, HID Headlight, RC Performance Exhaust
            Bikemaster Daytona Handlebars, Galfer SS Brake Lines
            Barnett HD Clutch Springs, T.C. Spin On Filter Adapter
            K+N Air Filter

            88 Voyager XII
            81 XJ650 Maxim

            Comment


            • #7
              Same symptoms I had when my rear master went bad. I put it off and put it off just working the brakes draining and refilling with fluid. It did not work. It left me stranded on a lonely road on a hot day working on it with no shade.

              Don't get stuck on a lonely road on a 100 degree day with no shade. Take it all apart clean it all and rebuild all that needs it. IF IN DOUBPT GET REBUILD KITS.
              To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.

              Rodan
              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
              1980 G Silverbird
              Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
              1198 Overbore kit
              Grizzly 660 ACCT
              Barnett Clutch Springs
              R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
              122.5 Main Jets
              ACCT Mod
              Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
              Antivibe Bar ends
              Rear trunk add-on
              http://s1184.photobucket.com/albums/z329/viperron1/

              Comment


              • #8
                Don't get stuck in a roadside ditch!!

                Don't get stuck in a roadside ditch.

                Sorry Ron, just had to play on your terminology there....

                I agree with the thought to clean up the rear brake system if you have not done so yet.
                Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                Previously owned
                93 GSX600F
                80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                81 XS1100 Special
                81 CB750 C
                80 CB750 C
                78 XS750

                Comment


                • #9
                  You need to determine the base cause for the brake dragging in the first place (adjustment, MC, caliper piston or caliper slide binding, or collapsed brake hose).
                  I don't care who said what, any brake dragging on any vehicle of any type can never be shrugged off as "normal".

                  The reason it gets worse after a 20 mile ride to work is the heat from the dragging causes the brake fluid to expand, causing more drag, causing more heat, causing more expansion, causing more drag....... eventually, the brake will drag to the point the the bike is unridable, or, if you continue to push it, the brake fluid will boil rendering the brake utterly useless, which I hope noboby will ever tell you is "normal".

                  The first and simplest check is the adjusment, do you have enough free travel in the brake pedal? Despite a locknut, vibration does happen.
                  If I sound a bit too earnest forgive me, but we are talking about brakes after all.
                  '78 E "Stormbringer"

                  Purrs like a kitten, roars like a lion, runs like a gazelle (being chased by a cheetah).

                  pics http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/...tormbringer45/

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ManagerMike View Post
                    The reason it gets worse after a 20 mile ride to work is the heat from the dragging causes the brake fluid to expand, causing more drag, causing more heat, causing more expansion, causing more drag....... eventually, the brake will drag to the point the the bike is unridable, or, if you continue to push it, the brake fluid will boil rendering the brake utterly useless, which I hope noboby will ever tell you is "normal".

                    I can attest to this from experience on an XS750. Got the bike for basically free. The bleed screws on the front calipers were broken off. I never did the work to fix them, just rode the bike. As I would ride it the front brakes would lsowly get tighter and tighter until when you let off the throttle the bike would stop!! I dropped it more than once from that, this was back in my much younger dumber days. Well, eventually, the fluid did give out, and was coming down a hill with no brakes, up to a redlight at a three way intersection. I honked the horn and luckily people stopped as I ran through the light to the right side of my lanes across the corss street. bike hit the curb, jumped about three feet in the air, came down on the side walk and I rode it to a stop using the rear brake.

                    Do not let this be you.....it is NO FUN!!!
                    Life is what happens while your planning everything else!

                    When your work speaks for itself, don't interrupt.

                    81 XS1100 Special - Humpty Dumpty
                    80 XS1100 Special - Project Resurrection


                    Previously owned
                    93 GSX600F
                    80 XS1100 Special - Ruby
                    81 XS1100 Special
                    81 CB750 C
                    80 CB750 C
                    78 XS750

                    Comment

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