electrical issue

[ManagerMike]

Any update on the solenoid issue? I think I am having the same problem, although the fuse block has already been replaced on my bike. I got the power to come back on for a second, then heard a buzz/clicking coming from the starter solenoid area, then nothing again.

As stated in an earliier post, Nate's I think, though your solenoid may be fried, it cannot cause a complete loss of electrical power. Only a poor connection somewhere can do that. Most common on these bikes are (in no specific order) battery, battery ground, fuse block, and ignition (key) switch.
For me, it was the ign switch, I got so tired of taking it apart and cleaning it only to have start acting up again in short order, I eliminated it with a toggle switch hidden behind the right side cover.

[KWinDC]

I will check grounds and the ignition switch. It seems to reset its self when I take off the neg to the battery. I can power on and everything works until I hit the start button. Then click and all goes off again. Might try to kick it to see if it runs, may be a starter ground.

Thanks for all the help thus far.

[trdriver71]

I would try and clean up the ignition switch plug in the headlight bucket.

[TopCatGr58]

I will check grounds and the ignition switch. It seems to reset its self when I take off the neg to the battery. I can power on and everything works until I hit the start button. Then click and all goes off again. Might try to kick it to see if it runs, may be a starter ground.

Thanks for all the help thus far.

I think you're onto the solution with the above bolded text. Sounds like it's loosing it's ground. It takes a lot of current to run the starter. There is a separate ENGINE to Frame ground strap at the starter below the carbs and battery. Pull that bolt and where it attaches to the frame, clean up any corrosion/rust and reassemble, THEN apply dielectric grease AROUND the joints. Dielectric grease can prevent conductivity so you don't want it BETWEEN the metal parts, but around it for a sealant against humidity is good. Same for the battery ground strap to frame as well.

T.C.

[MPittma100]

No Electrical

Check the integrity of the + battery cable (both ends) and insure a good uncorroded contact.

MP

[KWinDC]

I will check both the starter and the + wire tomorrow afternoon. Way to hot out there and I have run out of sweet tea.

[KWinDC]

Finally got time to take the started out. The pos wire is pretty corroded and rusty. I will clean it up tonight and put it back in tomorrow. Also, there are some sloppy connections to the ignition switch which I will clean up tomorrow as well. Put a new starter solenoid in to be safe (and after I took apart, with out researching how, and most likely broke the old one). Once all that is done I believe the only issues left, if it doesn't work, will be the ignition switch or the kill switch. I am putting my money on the kill switch. I will try and kick it over after I get to back together as well.

[KWinDC]

Starter back in with no issue. Ignition switch, with fresh lead wires wires connected, back in and testing good. Pos wire to starter is good as is the neg ground. But now nothing. No power to the lights as before. I don't think there is power getting to the ignition switch, thus there is a short or ground somewhere between the battery and the ignition switch. Tomorrow I will check to see if power is getting to the main fuse. If so then my short must be between the main fuse and the ignition switch.

Any suggestions? Thanks.

[KWinDC]

So... My update. When testing power through the main fuse with the key switch off I get 4.5v and with the key switch on I get 12.56v. With all switches on I get no power to the headlight or the ignition fuses and only 2v to the turn signal fuse. When I first go out and reconnect the key switch wires I get full power and lights, but as soon as the start button is pushed all goes dark and stays that way.

I followed this advise from the "bike quit on me" thread:

"To test your circuit, with the key switch on, check to see you have twelve volts or there about at the red/white wire connection to the starter solenoid by checking form the connection to ground. If you have voltage here then go to test two...No voltage? Now take a "jumper wire" (piece of similar gage wire) and connect the positive terminal of your battery to the red/white wire connection at the solenoid. Now push the starter button. No starter then it is most likely the button itself. Test two, take that jumper wire, and connect one end to the blue wire terminal on the starter solenoid and hook the other end to the NEGATIVE terminal of the battery. Starter should turn now. If still no starter then you need to chekc fuse or key switch. "

Nothing. I am fairly convinced that the key switch is okay. There are two options I think I am faced with: 1) The kill switch and button on the right handle bar is wonky, 2) There is a ground somewhere in the main wiring harness.

Any suggestions or advice?

[KWinDC]

New update. I took off the kill switch and opened her up... rusted would be an understatement. When I used my little electric checker, with the switch in the on position, I got mixed results. If I wiggled the switch it would fluctuate all over the place. I tried to clean it up but ended up ordering a new switch from Mike's and should be here on Friday. I hope this will get me back on the road, I am missing good riding weather.

[KWinDC]

New kill switch is here! Spent the evening matching up the wires as there were a few color differences. Will install tomorrow and say a little prayer.

[KWinDC]

Kill switch is in... still nothing. I will start checking resistance between the ignition switch and the fuse block if I get some time tomorrow. Anyone know what the ignition switch should be putting out?

[McShafty]

mine had shorted out and had to be repalaced. the power lead off the pos post was the cause of it shorting out. it had failed as well. i used a selnoid out of a older ford and and fabricated a replacement wire out of some 2gage wire i have