Timing...

[Bikeboy]

Will any type of timing light work to set the timing,and what do you connect it to. I don't have one yet, but I was going to get one, I wanted to pass this by you guys first, never have set timing on a car or a bike.

[Bikeboy]

Need help!!!!!!!!!!!!

Got bike ready for timing. Don't know how too. HELP

[John]

Just buy a basic timing light. You won't need all that fancy stuff. Just connect the battery leads up to the battery, and connect the pick up wire to the #1 spark plug. The engine RPM's should be approx. 1000 plus or minus 100, with the engine warm. At the lower left is a pointer. It should line up with "f" mark on the timing plate. If it doesn't, then you'll need shut off the engine to loosen the bolts that hold the timing mechanism to the engine just enough to move it, and rotate it the direction that it needs to go, restart the engine, and adjust until the marks align. The 80-81's have special bolts holding the timing mechanism to the engine, and the heads are designed to break off when the proper torque is applied when tightening. These will have to be removed, and cannot be reused. You'll need a screw extractor to do this.
Hope this helps. Good luck.

[pgg]

Hold the revs at 6 grand and if alls well it should read around the 35deg mark. Your neighbours will love the sound.

[MartyA]

The base plate is the plate bolted to the engine with [on mine] phillips head screws, behind the timing plate. They are soft, so if you have to loosen them and they have never been loosened, be prepared to replace them. Like I did...

The other test you can do is disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the vacuum advance unit and run the engine to 5,200. The pointer should be at 31 degrees - Special models, 36 degrees - Standard. This tests the centifugal advance unit.

[Bikeboy]

Timing

Thanks guys, I'am going out to get one of those timing lights in the next few days and give it a go, sounds simple enough I should be able to do this. You say, buy a cheap one, define cheap. $20.00/$40.00/$60.00, what kind of price should I be looking at.

[John]

Timing cont.

I should have finished reading before I wrote you. After checking the base timing, the manual says to disconnect and plug the vacuum hose, and increase rpm's to 5,200. The pointer should line up with the 36 degree mark for a standard model, or 31 for a special. This will test the centrifical advance.
As far as cost of a timing light, just buy one that will fit your needs. If you aren't going to use it but a couple times a year, then why spend more than $20? As long as it flashes bright enough to see the strobe, and illuminate the marks, then it's fine. Using some white paint, mark the F mark, and the timing mark that is correct for your model bike. That will show up better under the strobe when it flashes.

[MartyA]

Just be careful with the clamp on the spark plug. I have a plain automotive one with a fairly large clamp, and I have a tough time finding a spot on the wire that picks up the spark. I thought at first the timing light was not working. Too much insulation on the cap, and it does not fit too well between the spark plug and the head.

[John]

Dinosaur timing light

Hey Marty! The old light that I use is the type that has a spring type connection that goes between the spark plug and the cap. It's probably over 20 years old, but does the job on a 24 year old bike.

[MartyA]

Dinosaur?
No no no, its all in your perspective.

All things being relative, the bike will think the timing light is new, and vice versa...

That's what I like about my XS. It is half my age, so I think of myself as a 26 yr old on a new bike, not a 52 yr old on a 26 yr old bike.

[pgg]

If you've got high comp wiseco pistons you might want to knock it back a couple degrees. If you want to 'liven up' the top end, then bang it forward 2 or 3 notches. Keep an eye on the plugs.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Patrick,

I've got the little big bore kit, but my timing is "I GUESS" still stock since I've never adjusted it!!! Can you tell me a bit more about the retarding the timing with the higher comp pistons!?!? Will this give me a little better bottom end?? My top end is already great, but I've got 4-1 pipes and Indy filters, and so I just accepted the loss of low rpm grunt due to the pipes! Do you think I could get a little better bottom end and not loose too much of the top end by tweaking my timing????

[pgg]

Hi there Topcat,
Try it and see mate! Seriously, some high(er) compression motors run pretty hot and can even pre-detonate on stock timing. Especially with hotter coils too. Retarding is basically just a safety measure rather than a performance issue. My old re-bored GS1000 ran white hot plugs no matter what I did to the mix. Someone told me, rather than cold plugs and rich jets, to slightly retard the timing. It did the trick - gave the plugs some colour back.

After a port job my XS with wisecos was running too hot for my liking; I even ran some BP9,s with no change in plug colour. The mix was rich enough to bog the motor by that stage. Eventually got things right by retarding 2 deg, going one plug colder, and (after 6,547 carb removals) getting a good pilot/main combination. Yeah, low end grunt loss is probably more cams and pipes. Although experimenting with timing tweaks may surprise. I always ran my first 78E 3 deg advanced and had a screaming top end. Zip below 3000. Gave the motor no mercy - and it just laughed! It's true - XS11 motors are bulletproof!