first test run today

[Scout]

Got my 1982 1100 Maxim on the road today after about a year of tinkering. I have two out of three calipers sticking so ordered kits today. Runs great but have noticed during cold start up the outside cylinders will not pick up and run until it warms up for about a minute? Any ideas? And this thing has a very nice Vetter Fairing on it with a radio that I thought I would really like. What I noticed os the extra wieght on the front end. Not sure I like it. Anyone had experience with the Vetter Fairings on any kind of bike this size. Did you like or dislike the faring.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Scout,

Congrats on the ride and such. You say "tinkering", to what level? What did it take or you do to get it to where you could put it on the road? The cooler cylinders sounds like you may not have cleaned the pilot circuits well enough during the carb clean, so they are not flowing as well to provide enough fuel to run properly until you get into the mains.

OR...you could have a weak coil...since it fires both 1 and 4 together.
Or the plug wires and caps could be corroded, so it's just not firing as strongly? Have you taken the caps off the coil wires, inspected for corrosion, trimmed back 1/4" of wire to get to good copper, also OHM check the caps for proper range...commonly 5k ohms....but if much higher again can be signs of corrosion WITHIN the components of the caps...they come apart to accewss the internal resistor!

Also, have you vac. synched the carbs? You'll need to make the special YICS tool, or get the YICS eliminator device before you can properly and accurately vac. synch them!

Lots of STUFF that needs to be done for proper maintenance to get these machines back into road worthy condition!

Sticking brakes could be the calipers, but could also be the spooge holes in the MC's as well! Again, see the many tech tips for info on this.

Fairings, yep , heavy, the XJ has air assisted front shocks to help compensate for the increased loading from fairings. Some like, some don't! YMMV!

I prefer the lighter handlebar mounted windscreens to a FULL FAIRING, but I don't use a dash radio either, I have saddlebags for storage, and I don't ride all year long, so don't really need the extra protection, and don't want the extra weight!

T.C.

[Scout]

I completly tore the carbs down and soaked them in carb cleaner for a few minutes. Then put a Dyno kit in them which includes all new jets,some drilling of the diaphams. Stage 3 as it is called by Dyna Kit. New needles and seats, bowl gaskets. The Dyna kit advised go with 4 turns on the low speed needles. Stock exhaust, K and N filters. The bike runs great except for that 2 minute warm up until until the outside cylinders start to fire. I think it might be the coil problem or something like the wires. I did purchase the YICS plug and synced the carbs. That went fine. I left the YICS in it. It is an aftermarket type and was advised just to leave it in. I have tried incresing the turns on the low speed needles that did not help so put them back on 4 turns. Did other things like rebuilt pet cocks, vacuum valve, new filters on the petcocks inside tank. Clean inside of tank. Any more thoughts would be appriciated. Thanks

[TopCatGr58]

Hey again,

The heat must be keeping folks from doing much, surprised that no one else has chimed in here! Well, the Dyna Jet kits are probably an overkill, we can't advise you much on them, a few folks on here have put them in, but with stock pipes and intake....could be wasted $$!

The soaking carbs in cleaner is a bit bothersome, even for just a few minutes, could have caused some damage to the butterfly shaft seals which can then cause vac leaks...so with low rpm running they can't develop enough suction to pull fuel thru to feed the pilot circuit to get them to fire??? The YICS eliminator is good, yep, leave it in! You can test for the vac. leaks by spraying some ....folks say carb cleaner around the shaft/seals while the bike is running and see/hear if you sense any changes in RPM. Could also use unlit bar-b-q grill lighter, things like that that would provide more combustible fuel that could get in thru the possible leaking seals to change rpm.

Other vac. leak sources, the carb boots to engine connection, the vac. synch port caps.

Testing the ignition coils is a bit more involved, swapping both the plug wires between 2-3 and 1-4 IF they will reach....as well as swapping the orange/grey trigger wire at the coil so the 2-3 pair which would then be connected to the 1-4 cylinders would be firing the 1-4 signal/timing and not the 2-3 timing point.

T.C.

[petejw]

hi scout,

did u clean the little starter jet in the bottom
of the fuel bowls?

regarding the dyno jet kit, was this specifically
for the xj? they run a different jet set up compared
to the later model xs carbs tho they look the same
from the outside.
and as tc stated ull find the stage 3 main jets are to big.
try the stage 1 or 2 depending on ur mods.

[Scout]

I need to digest what you have typed and take your suggestions. Thanks will let you know how things turn out. A bit more info for you. Iam running K and N filter pods on it, 138 mains, 190 pilot, Dyno jet needles set on the 2nd ring groove. Like i said the only real problem I can see at this point is the outside two cylinders not picking up until it warms for about a minute. The kit is specific to a 1982 1100.

[natemoen]

I need to digest what you have typed and take your suggestions. Thanks will let you know how things turn out. A bit more info for you. Iam running K and N filter pods on it, 138 mains, 190 pilot, Dyno jet needles set on the 2nd ring groove. Like i said the only real problem I can see at this point is the outside two cylinders not picking up until it warms for about a minute. The kit is specific to a 1982 1100.

190 pilot jet? Are you talking about the air jet in the intake bell of the carb? If so that is about right, you you are talking about the actual pilot jet that is in the float bowl then that is way to big, unless dynojet uses some weird numbering system!

[Scout]

yes the jet in the intake of bowl is a 190.

[James England]

Stage 3 kit is definitely wrong for a bike with OEM exhaust and air filters.

I just fitted Dynojets to my XJR1300. It has OEM exhaust and K&N filter and the recommended is Stage 1.

Stage 2 is for when you have pods and Stage 3 is for when you add non-stock exhausts.

Incidentally, I had my XJR Dyno-tested after doing the Stage 1 mods and using the Stage 1 kit. The burn etc is all perfect, so Stage 3 would definitely be wrong for my bike and is, I strongly suspect, wrong for yours too....