Rear Drive Unit

[John]

To Dark Avenger

Check your private messages.

[chevy45412001]

Ive had that same exact problem.Mine was the clutch,it wasnt adjusted properly. The set nut on the adjustment screw backed off allowing the adjustment screw to back out.limped my bike home,reset clutch made sure lock nut was secure this time no probs since. hope this helps.

[DarkAvenger]

Thanks mate, but I'd honestly doubt it's the clutch, as I've said, when the clutch was in good nick, I still had the problem. Also, the metallic "clunk" when the drive slips doesn't really feel like it's the clutch.
Thanks anyway,
Dave.

Originally posted by chevy45412001
Ive had that same exact problem.Mine was the clutch,it wasnt adjusted properly. The set nut on the adjustment screw backed off allowing the adjustment screw to back out.limped my bike home,reset clutch made sure lock nut was secure this time no probs since. hope this helps.

[chevy45412001]

I had that same sound with this problem. Like the whole bike was going to fly apart at any moment.( I have also experinced 1st 2nd gear woes when i first bought bike,even with no first or second gear the bike did not make that awful sound). But hay im not claiming to no something i dont.Just sounds real familiar thats all.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Dark,

You stated in an earlier post that you replaced the 2nd and 4th gears due to the worn dogs! However, with 1st gear the large solid gear slotted plate that the 4th gear dogs mesh with were probably also badly rounded, and if you didn't replace or regrind them flat or even undercut, then it was just a matter of a very short time before the dogs would not hold the engagement and it would start jumping again! Same for the 5th gear open slots that 2nd gear dogs mesh with.

The OEM gears are straight 90degree angle cut, and so even with fresh dogs, the receiving slots were still worn, and so the tendency for the dogs to slide out/away from the slots was/is high. I hate to say it but you'll need to pull the gears back out, and then undercut the slots, and since you have NEW 2nd and 4th gear dogs, you won't need to do much grinding, but you will still want to undercut them slightly as well to match the angles of the slots. If you do this, I can almost guarantee you won't have that jumping gear problem anymore!!
BTDT with 1XS and 2 XJs, both 1st and 2nd gear jumpers!!!!!

[glenn]

gear slip

Hi Topcat
i know i have exchanged info with you in a different thread but I would like to describe the ttransmission in my bike (fault not function). Whn I am in second the gear occasionally jumps out and back in. sometimes this occurs in 3rd as well. This occurs most often in the 5,000/6,000 rpm range. The momentary disengagement makes it seem like it has jumped back a gear because for that split second of "neutral" the motor increases revs extremely quickly. Any thoughts. i am s... scared of opening the tranny. I have dismantled 2 on the bench but will have to do my rider on my back on the floor and I want to be able to sight potential problems as easily as I can
Thanks
Glenn

[glenn]

Dark Avenger

have you checked the univeral under the rubber boot? i have a few bikes and one of them is loose to the point i have to change it
Glenn

[DarkAvenger]

Topcat & Glenn
Thanks a million lads. Lots of food for thought. I'll check that out Glenn thanks.
Topcat, interesting what you're saying, and makes sense. I'll pay a bit more attention when I strip her down this time.
Wish me luck!
Dave.

[TopCatGr58]

To Glenn,

Yes, we've been discussing this in the other thread as well, no biggie! What's surprising with 3rd gear is that it WAS Undercut at the factory!! So, if it's slipping, then you've got some serious wear there. I want to declare now that I'm no engineer or tranny guru by any means, just had some bench work experience with them over the past few years!!

My first gear went out on mine after 9 years of use, and when it started jumping under modest throttle pressure, I started going into 2nd earlier, but it wasn't but a few months later that 2nd started jumping, so I parked it.....regrettably for 9 years before I found this (XS11 Yahoo group 1st)great site and the links and diagrams provided by Ken Talbot and all on the dremmel fix techinique.

I, too, was quit scared about splitting the cases and tearing the tranny down, but with this technique, you don't have to!! You can also flip the bike over on it's back and work on it that way, making it much easier to get to the tranny case, and you don't have the forks and such falling on your face, makes it much easier to put it all back together as well!!

From my understanding the shift forks are mostly just to nudge the gears into each other, but not necessarily to forcibly hold them meshed together. They are only cast aluminum, and the gears are hardened steel, and so if they rub against the sides of the gears much at all, they get very worn very fast!! I've seen examples of that from guys who had 1st slipping, and so after they would shift it into 1st, they would hold down the shift lever forcing the fork to hold the gears meshed, and they trashed their shift forks that way!! The undercutting technique is what really helps to hold the gears meshed once they are shifted into place. I did not put the extra washer/spacer in any of the 3 bikes I fixed. One XJ was so bad that anything above idle caused 1st gear to slip/jump, sounded like a machine gun!! All three were rock solid after the fix!

Are you a member of the Yahoo group? There is a walk thru set of instructions on the Dremmel fix along with a lot of photos and diagrams showing the steps, the grinding, etc.! It's in the files section, under tips and tricks IIRC!! I'm supposed to fix the tech tip we have here to include the same info, just haven't made the time or effort to do it!!

[glenn]

Gear woes

Hi again Topcat
When i removed the gear clusters etc from the engine/transmission I didnt split the cases. Other than the second group the removal was fairly simple. i have 2 sets of clusters out of those motors at present as well as probably 1 and a half complete sets. i look and I look and etc. i suppose i will bite the bullet. ia m up for an oil change which means removing the exhaust etc anyway.
It took me around 2.5 hrs to strip down the cases sufficiently to remove theclusters before, at a comfortable height and so on. And SWMBO was away shoppingI will try it and write it as I go and submit for others to consider.
Thats how we learn I guess.
I have run building jobs up to $3.5 million with a lot of things happening at once. cannot work out why this is so daunting.
Glenn
Keep smilin' and let the bastards worry

[glenn]

topcat

Hi I have a couple of photos of my transmission that explain a lot as to why my bike doesnt shift???? so well they are self explanatory. The only confusing thing is how the ---- did they get there.
Dark I hope you dont have this when you take off the oil pan
Just letting the last of theoil drain ouit over night and tomorrow I will remove the gear clusters. Will take a couple of photos to show the difference and where it came from
Glenn

[DarkAvenger]

~watching with trepidation for the ominous pics~

[chevy45412001]

Just curious as to if you found the problem yet?

[DarkAvenger]

Not yet. Gathering as much info as I can before starting the job. Will post the results of my work here as soon as I've started & completed the job. Will be later in the year though as I've a few other bits to tackle before starting on the bike!
Dave.

[GsBike]

Final Drive Bid

Well, I bid on the final drive unit on Ebay and won the item for a decent price $25. The seller charged me $16 to send the unit USPS (which is over priced) but I figured that was o.k.

Anyway, 27 days later I still have not received the unit!!! Seller said he sent it but it never got here. I also paid for insurance but the seller forgot to get it and now he's refusing to repay me the whole price. I guess that's the risk you take for bidding on-line.

So, minus $25 and I'm still looking for a final drive unit.