Okay, so ive cleaned out the caliper, rebuilt it, ive got a new (to me) master cylinder, cleaned the spooge hole out, new pads, bled the system, and the rear brakes function properly. i was working on my bike with it on the center stand and tried spinning the wheel. It spins, barely, but i can hear the brakes dragging. ive searched the posts, and cant seem to find anything about my issue. im thinking that it might have something to do with the pedal not being properly adjusted but i really have no idea why it would be dragging. ive noticed that when i let off the gas, and pull the clutch in, without pressing the brakes, that the bike seems to slow down a little faster than just coasting in nuetral. any ideas?
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Ive got a question about my rear brakes...
79 XS11 special "Loki" - homemade 4-2 exhaust, pod filters, rebuilt forks with progressive springs, tkat fork brace, progressive shocks, rebuilt all brakes and MC's, rebuilt carbs with #142.5 main and #42.5 pilot, a custom front and chin fairing, and a handmade set of saddlebags....
09 YZF-R1 " Toothless"
04 Buell XB12R "Butterfly"
"I had a name at some point, a birth-name, but now everyone just calls me Wolf...."
Wolf
Moto Militia MCTags: None
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Several things can cause brake drag situations. The first thing to look for is the alignment of the brake calliper. If the bracket is bent or the gromet is worn it can get the assembly out of alignement. Second is lubrication of the mounting studs. The calliper assembly shifts back and forth on the mount so that preasure from the shoes are applied equally rust and corrosin can bind these up causing a shoe to drag. The calliper assembly can rust and the plungers hang causing pads to drag. The master cylinder can build up with rust and not release preasure. The pedal can be out of adjustment but usually this results in not having enough travel and you will get poor braking pressure.
You can look at the manual and make sure the brake assembly is mounted properly all washers and spacers in proper place and gromet on properly. The disk should spin inside the caliper without dragging on the metal if not its out of allignment. Callier and master cylinder would need to be taken appart checked and cleaned or rebuilt. There is a good writeup in the manual for the breake pedal adjustment.
This should give you directions as to where to start looking.To fix the problem one should not make more assumptions than the minimum needed.
Rodan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=khm6...liHntN91DHjHiS
1980 G Silverbird
Original Yamaha Fairfing and Bags
1198 Overbore kit
Grizzly 660 ACCT
Barnett Clutch Springs
R1 Clutch Fiber Plates
122.5 Main Jets
ACCT Mod
Mac 4-2 Flare Tips
Antivibe Bar ends
Rear trunk add-on
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Originally posted by airborneXS View Post...ive got a new (to me) master cylinder, cleaned the spooge hole out...
You'll have a slight drag on any disc brake even when everything is good. But if you swapped masters, you do need the check/adjust the rear pedal linkage to make sure the master is allowing full release of the caliper.Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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Originally posted by crazy steve View PostIf you had to clean the spooge hole (or found any 'stuff' in the master), then there's an excellent chance there was more and it's plugged up again. Fully disassemble, thoroughly clean it, and reassemble.
You'll have a slight drag on any disc brake even when everything is good. But if you swapped masters, you do need the check/adjust the rear pedal linkage to make sure the master is allowing full release of the caliper.'79 XS11 F
Stock except K&N
'79 XS11 SF
Stock, no title.
'84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws
"What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~
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the caliper i cleaned and rebuilt...the master cylinder that was on the bike was the wrong type, so a member on here provided me the right type...i cleaned and rebuilt it as well...79 XS11 special "Loki" - homemade 4-2 exhaust, pod filters, rebuilt forks with progressive springs, tkat fork brace, progressive shocks, rebuilt all brakes and MC's, rebuilt carbs with #142.5 main and #42.5 pilot, a custom front and chin fairing, and a handmade set of saddlebags....
09 YZF-R1 " Toothless"
04 Buell XB12R "Butterfly"
"I had a name at some point, a birth-name, but now everyone just calls me Wolf...."
Wolf
Moto Militia MC
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steel braided lines...79 XS11 special "Loki" - homemade 4-2 exhaust, pod filters, rebuilt forks with progressive springs, tkat fork brace, progressive shocks, rebuilt all brakes and MC's, rebuilt carbs with #142.5 main and #42.5 pilot, a custom front and chin fairing, and a handmade set of saddlebags....
09 YZF-R1 " Toothless"
04 Buell XB12R "Butterfly"
"I had a name at some point, a birth-name, but now everyone just calls me Wolf...."
Wolf
Moto Militia MC
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Sounds like the master cylinder needs more cleaning, possibly a rebuild kit. Did you fully disassemble the MC or just flush it and poke at the hole? Not busting on ya man, some people have different standards when doing a "rebuild".Last edited by WMarshy; 07-06-2012, 09:35 PM.'79 XS11 F
Stock except K&N
'79 XS11 SF
Stock, no title.
'84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws
"What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~
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You'd be amazed at how much 'stuff' can hide under the reservoir if you don't pull it off. I got a used one from a member that looked clean, but there was almost a teaspoon's worth of crud under the reservoir. He got rid of it because it kept clogging....Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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completely disassembled both the caliper and MC, and i mean COMPLETELY...lol...i dont cut corners...rebuilt with brand new kits...79 XS11 special "Loki" - homemade 4-2 exhaust, pod filters, rebuilt forks with progressive springs, tkat fork brace, progressive shocks, rebuilt all brakes and MC's, rebuilt carbs with #142.5 main and #42.5 pilot, a custom front and chin fairing, and a handmade set of saddlebags....
09 YZF-R1 " Toothless"
04 Buell XB12R "Butterfly"
"I had a name at some point, a birth-name, but now everyone just calls me Wolf...."
Wolf
Moto Militia MC
Comment
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Did you replace the keepers on the calipers, and put a LIGHT coat of HIGH TEMP grease on them where the pads fit? IF you are using the old anti-rattle springs, and you didn't put grease on them, you may have a problem. My second guess would be the seal channel on the caliper still has one or two spots with aluminum oxide(rust) left. That will keep the seal pushed against the piston, and not allow the piston to retract fully. That is all I can think of.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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If all else fails, go back to the master cylinder that worked... JAT It may be the wrong one but if it worked then its better than the one your using...'79 XS11 F
Stock except K&N
'79 XS11 SF
Stock, no title.
'84 Chevy K-10 "Big Blue"
GM 350, Muncie SM465, NP208, GM 10 Bolt with 3.42gears turnin 31x10.5 Baja Claws
"What they do have is an implacable, unrelenting presence and movement that bespeaks massive power lurking behind paint and chrome. They don't wail like a screeching ninja, the don't rumble like a harley. They just growl like a spactic, stressed out badger waiting to rip your face off and eat your soul." Trainzz~RIP~
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I'm having a similar problem. I rebuild front and rear master cylinders with new kits and made sure I could see the wire I used to poke out the spooge hole in the bore. I didn't do the calipers. I bled the breaks and the wheels wont spin. I release the banjo fittings from the calipers and the wheels spin. Hook up the banjos and the wheels wont spin. Sounds like a classic spooge issues but I thought I was pretty thorough. Before I rip the mc's apart anyone have suggestions? Earlier in the post someone mentioned brake lines.
Thanks Jason79 XS 1100 F I call her trouble but she's almost tamed
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No sense doing only half the job. Pull the calipers off and clean them now, especially behind the sealing ring around the piston. Crap builds up behind that ring and holds the piston from moving back in.Nathan
KD9ARL
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1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
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