Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Just so I don't compound my problems...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Just so I don't compound my problems...

    My bike has languished for a couple of years as I search out a no-spark issue. I recently made some progress and had enough spark to almost get started. My carbs have gummed up due to sitting, and I know how picky these bikes are about clean carbs.

    I have done the carbs before, successfully (bike ran before and better after), by cleaning carefully and changing as little as possible. I decided to check float height, and I am way out from spec, and always have been:


    The tangs are almost flat and there is little play left until the float bodies hit the bottom of the carb body (when floating). My research here and elsewhere leads me to think that being consistent across the carb levels is more important than the actual level. I don't have the bowl nipple to do a clear tube measurement. Should I leave them alone or make a big adjustment? My mileage has never been better than 32-33mpg. My plugs seemed okay, but now I can't tell (sporadic spark).
    "Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."

  • #2
    So is it just a coincidence with the camera angle that makes it look like you're measuring right there? And if so... what exactly are you measuring? Also, in the furst pic, I see a gasket there, but you are taking that off before measuring, right?


    *PS... everything is a really lovely shade of green! lol.
    Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

    You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

    Current bikes:
    '06 Suzuki DR650
    *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
    '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
    '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
    '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
    '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
    '81 XS1100 Special
    '81 YZ250
    '80 XS850 Special
    '80 XR100
    *Crashed/Totalled, still own

    Comment


    • #3
      You know it runs with the settings as is, so don't change them until its running again. Do as you did before and do a clean but don't adjust anything. Get the bike running as it did before your electrical issues and then start tweaking. Changing to many things at once (especially on a bike that doesn't run) will make you pull your hair out trying to figure out what happened.

      Once its running I'd adjust the floats leaner and give it a go - keep some notes so you can go back and also so you have a record of what changed with each adjustment.

      Also 'FYI' you can use a grease fitting with the little check ball drilled out as a hose nipple on carbs that don't have that feature. Doesn't really give you something to 'measure' to but it does let you set for a consistent level across all the carbs.
      1979 xs1100 Special -
      Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

      Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

      Originally posted by fredintoon
      Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
      My Bike:
      [link is broken]

      Comment


      • #4
        Well...you need to flip your caliper over and use the other end first of all....

        You don't measure from that lip that you have the caliper jaw on. You need to measure from underneath (really on top of but when sitting like that underneath) the bowl gasket.

        Use that little stick that comes out of the bottom end of the caliper as you open it up. That is the depth gauge, place it on the gasket mating surface and then use the base of the caliper as the part to see the height of the float.

        AND, with those plastic floats you are looking to have a height of 23mm +\- 1mm. It is the brass floats that need the 25.7mm +\-1mm.
        Last edited by natemoen; 07-02-2012, 04:39 PM.
        Nathan
        KD9ARL

        μολὼν λαβέ

        1978 XS1100E
        K&N Filter
        #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
        OEM Exhaust
        ATK Fork Brace
        LED Dash lights
        Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

        Green Monster Coils
        SS Brake Lines
        Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

        In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

        Theodore Roosevelt

        Comment


        • #5
          That was mostly a function of trying to juggle the camera, the calipers, and the carbs with only two hands. So, the mating surface of the gasket is the base point? I was never really clear on that..."edge of carb body" was as close as I got.

          Yeah, that is a nice green sheen, eh? I think I'll do my whole bike in Verdigris...just keepin' it old school.
          "Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by LoHo View Post
            So, the mating surface of the gasket is the base point?
            Yup, pull the gasket and remeasure. 23mm is the goal.
            Nathan
            KD9ARL

            μολὼν λαβέ

            1978 XS1100E
            K&N Filter
            #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
            OEM Exhaust
            ATK Fork Brace
            LED Dash lights
            Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

            Green Monster Coils
            SS Brake Lines
            Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

            In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

            Theodore Roosevelt

            Comment


            • #7
              Like others have stated Larry, get it to run before making any changes. As I remember, it sounded and ran smoothly at the CalyRally three yrs. ago. The metal tangs(not where measurement is made) look to be level, so that may explain the more than normal fuel consumption in the past. Remember, checking primary then secondary ignition sources comes before checking for a possible fueling issue.(BTW, to bad your talant sourcing mechanical/electrical issues isn't as good as your cooking for the rally 'masses')
              Last edited by motoman; 07-02-2012, 05:40 PM.
              81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

              Comment


              • #8
                Yeah, Moto, I think will leave them be until I solve the spark issue. I only took them off because I had spark for a bit but she wouldn't run, and one look in the carbs told me why.

                I look forward to feeding you guys again sometime soon: "Bring a knife and fork, and a multimeter and battery charger if you want to eat."
                "Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."

                Comment


                • #9
                  Never hurts to at least check them correctly since you have them open. Then you at least know for later on...
                  Nathan
                  KD9ARL

                  μολὼν λαβέ

                  1978 XS1100E
                  K&N Filter
                  #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                  OEM Exhaust
                  ATK Fork Brace
                  LED Dash lights
                  Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                  Green Monster Coils
                  SS Brake Lines
                  Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                  In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                  Theodore Roosevelt

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Loho,
                    If you trailer it up, I should be able to get it running in about three hours. Ed is talking about trying to get a rally together after labor day. If you are still not running, take a drive out to the coast and the Santa Cruz KOA. It's about 10 minutes from my house, and we have some GREAT roads up here for you to ride...
                    Just saying.
                    Ray Matteis
                    KE6NHG
                    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X