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**buffalo** · 02-16-2004, 08:27 PM

First, get a manual if you don't have one already
Second, take the carbs off ( this is the hard part)
Third, drain the carbs and turn the whole bank of carbs upside down to remove the 4 screws holding each float bowl, there are your floats and needle valves, carefully set all floats to the same level when reassembling ( your manual should tell you what to set them at).
It is critical that they all be set the same so do them all together rather than one at a time. Do you have a carb synch tool? Carbs should be syched after reinstalling them. Keeping things clean in there is also important.

**Ken Talbot** · 02-16-2004, 09:06 PM

Unfortunately, there is no shortcut from having to totally disassemble your carbs. If you browse around here a bit, you'll see lots of people talk about triple cleaning. Much of this is because people don't go all the way the first time and think they can get away with just flushing a bit of carb cleaner through. If you don't remove every last part, you will never be able to get to every blocked orifice or passage. One thing to add to buffalo's note - be very careful when it comes time to remove the floats. The post that holds the pivot pin is very easy to break. Be sure to read the article on this, and all the otehr carb articles, before you start.

Good luck!

**COxs11newbie** · 02-17-2004, 01:16 AM

Thanks for the replies guys....

I do have a manual, and I've been doing alot of reading both in it and on this forum. I've read all about the "triple clean", I'm guessing I should just go ahead and do that.

I allready have the carbs off the bike, I just wanted to see if there was anything I should know before I go about ripping these bad boys apart. I don't have a tool to synch the carbs though, how important is this? I've done carb rebuilds on dirt bikes before, but of course there is only one carb there so I'm new to the synch deal.

About replacing the float needle and seat though, is the best way to replace them is by removing the float bowl?

Just want to make sure I have a good idea of what I'm doing before I start pulling them apart.

Also, it seems as if some of the screws on the carb assembly are going to strip when I remove them, is it ok to replace them with similar screws from the hardware store? Would it be better to just replace some of them with allen screws?

Thanks again....

**John** · 02-17-2004, 08:42 AM

One way I have found to avoid having to sync the carbs is not to remove them from the rack. There is no reason to. That way the setting will not be disturbed. To remove the needle and seat the bowls must be removed. That is the only access to them. On an 81, the seats are retained by a screw and retaining clip, and they are just pushed into the carb body, and sealed with an o ring. Over time they can be very difficuld to remove. The best way I have found to remove them is with a pair of pliers, and if that doesn't work, then an easy out extractor is the next step. Just make sure you have a good bite with it and pull the seat out using a vise grip on the end of the extractor. They will come out. There is nothing else holding them in. Be aware of the small screens that are attached to the top of the seat. You will want to install them on the new seats.
According to my Clymers manual, the floats should be set by using a clear tube method, like a manometer, but a dry setting of 21-22 mm will get you not only in the ball park, but probably in the infield. I just rebuilt a set for an 82 XJ11, and that was the measurment that I got here when I asked. The XJ11, and the 81 XS11 use the same style of carb, and the floats are set the same way.
You say you think the screws are going to strip when you remove them? Do you mean the screw heads or the threads in the carb will strip? It is ok to replace the screws in the carb body, just remember they are metric. You can get new ones at most any hardware, or parts store, and if you do strip them, you can always tap them out to the next bigger metric size, or go to a comparable standard fine thread. Something like a # 10-32 or a #12-32 screw size will work. What type of screw head style is entirely up to you. There is a thread in the one of the maintenece threads that shows you how to build a jig to support the carbs when doing a float setting that will allow you to set them off the bike. Check it out, it's very detailed.
Good luck, and I hope this helps. Don't be afraid to come back and ask any questions if you get stuck. The guys here are very knowledgable, and willing to answer your questions. Just remember, the only stupid question, is the one you don't ask.

**TopCatGr58** · 02-17-2004, 09:46 AM

Hey there COxs11newbie,

I have an 81 Special and I have set the floats the same way. The pins can get stuck, corrosion, etc.. Some penetrating oil might be helpful. The pins have a head on them, so they only go in one way!! I broke my post on one trying to tap them out!! I also have only done the breadstick tie type of synching. The synching is to get all of them to flow with the same amount of vacuum running thru them which will then theoretically equate to the same amount of fuel/air mixture being pulled from them into the combustion chambers for an even amount of power from each cylinder....vs. 1 running a lot stronger and causing an imbalance!!

Aside from the threads, you'll want to check out the tech tips!!!! Easiest to find from the main FORUM link! Just scroll down the page!!

Folks have replaced their screws with allen heads type, but you can also find metric ones at the local hardware store that will work as well!! In getting the old ones out, I used a combo of PB Blaster type spray, then a snug fitting screwdriver head, and a pair of lock jaw pliers to get the screws turning without putting as much stress on the phillips slots!!!

Before you pull the carbs apart, you can test the condition of your rubber diaphragms for your slides by pushing up the slides, then putting your finger/thumb snugly over the curved slot on the top edge of the inlet. This will create a vacuum and the slide should slide down very slowly if at all!!! Then as you release your thumb, the spring will cause the slide to fall!! IF the slide falls quickly while your thumb is still closing off the opening, then you probably have holes in your rubbers!!

You'll find info on possible repairs vs. replacements $$$ here as well.

Pulling the tops off will be necessary for getting the main jet needle(actually the emulsion/atomizer tube) out of the center of the carb for a more thorough cleaning! The pilot jet idle screws are under a brass cap/plug on the top of the carbs next to the intake mounts!! To ensure a thorough cleaning of the pilot circuit you will want to remove those plugs to be able to remove the "Factory sealed" and set idle screws!! There are little metal and rubber washers and springs down there, don't loose them, they sometimes stay stuck in the hole when you pull the screws out! Then the tips are very delicate, so when you put them back in, seat them very gently, then back them out 1 1/4 turns each!!

To get the brass plugs out, you will need to drill thru them, but only about a 1/4 inch deep, being careful not to hit the pilot screws beneath them, then screw a sheet metal screw into them, then attach a lockjaw plier to them, and then you can tap them out by hitting the pliers to pull the plugs out!

I'll shut up now, feel free to come back with more questions as needed! Does the CO in your handle mean Colorado? If you include your location in your profile, you may find folks near you willing to provide hands on assistance!!!

**COxs11newbie** · 02-17-2004, 10:44 AM

Yeah the CO does mean Colorado. It's still pretty cold here so I have a while to get the bike running good before it's gonna be nice riding weather. I'm taking the MSF course here soon and then I'm give riding this beast a shot. I may end up just fixing it up, riding it for the summer then selling it, as I think it might be a bit too big for me.

I was refering to the screws holding the bowls on, they seems siezed and I just wanted to make sure if I strip a head that it's ok to replace them with something similar.

Thanks for the help with the carb rebuild, I think I got a good understanding of what I'm gonna be doing. I've read all the articles in the tech tips, lot's of good info there. I think for now I will just replace the float seat and needle and see how that works. I like doing this kinda stuff, so if I have to pull them off again it's no big deal!

**Ken Talbot** · 02-17-2004, 06:57 PM

Another suggestion - an impact driver will help a lot with loosening stuck phillips screws. If you don't already have one, this is a very good investment. I get mine out now whenever I'm going to try to take apart something that has been together for a while, especially if it has a phillips head. I've stripped way too many screwheads in the past......

**COxs11newbie** · 02-18-2004, 02:54 PM

I'm in the middle of rebuilding them right now, and have possible a very stupid question, what is the rubber passage plug that comes in the carb rebuild kit? I've got the float needle installed and it seems real easy so far. I just didn't take anything out that looks like this, so I"m not sure where it goes. Thanks....

**TopCatGr58** · 02-18-2004, 08:55 PM

Don't worry about it,

If you didn't pull one out of yours, don't try to put one in!!!

IIRC, the 78-79 carbs had a plugged Pilot Jet tube cause it got it's supply from the main jets, and I think that plug was for that!?

Other Carb GURU's(present company excluded!!) may chime in here with more precise info!

Did you drill out your pilot screw plugs?? Take it easy and you'll get it right, hopefully the FIRST TIME!!

T.C.

**COxs11newbie** · 02-19-2004, 01:05 PM

I didn't pull anything that looked like these out of my carbs, nor did I see anything, that's why I was so confused!

I'm not sure what you mean by drilling the pilot jet plug, I pulled all the jets and cleaned them pretty well though. The main jet on #3 was clogged with some kinda of green goo. Any ideas what that might have been?

I also did the breadstick synch, I know it says in the write up that it will be close enough with out sticks, but is it really by anyone's experience?

**TopCatGr58** · 02-19-2004, 09:43 PM

Hey there COxs11Newbie,

If you go back and re-read my reply of 2-17 I described the WHERE they were, and they are the Pilot Jet "Screws", which act like metering valves that control how much fuel is pulled thru the pilot 'jets' in the Idle Circuit. Yes, you found and removed the Main jets and Pilot "Jets", but these are the needle screws. That green goo I believe is a mixture of corrosion from the aluminum bowl mixed/caused possibly by water vapor, vs. gas varnish, and possibly mold!?!?

I'm not wanting/trying to sound like I'm hollering or browbeating, just didn't want to retype it all again!

I did the breadstick synch, and that's all on mine, and have run it for over 2 years that way. I'll eventually break down and build a synch tool to do it the exacting way, but since my bike/carb's idle circuit wasn't as pristine as I had wanted and it will idle but takes a while to warm up before it will, I just haven't gotten around to it! Hanging head in shame!!!

T.C.

**skids** · 02-19-2004, 09:49 PM

Re: hi and carb rebuild ?

Soo you are in Ft Collins? Get her fixed up and I will meet you this summer for a ride. I am in Arvada.

Originally posted by COxs11newbie
First off, I'm new here and just wanted to say hi. I just traded my dirt bike for a '81 midnight special, and I'm in the process of getting it running right.

**COxs11newbie** · 02-21-2004, 06:12 PM

tc- I got it, thanks for the responses. I got everything put back together and back on the bike, only the kill switch is busted, so the starter won't turn. I'm gonna post another question about that.

skids- Definatly will let you know when I get it running, I'd like someone to take a ride with. thanks...

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hi and carb rebuild ?

hi and carb rebuild ?

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