Fork Rebuild Pictorial

[bikerphil]

The XJ forks have an indexing screw (XJ forks have adjustable rebound damping mechanism) that should hold the damper rod from spinning. The 19MM nut tool is only needed for the XS11 Standard forks.

[jjz28]

I am getting ready to do my 79 special. Could I follow this pictorial or are they different? I know the top caps are different. Is there a good pictorial to the fork seal replacement for the special? Thanks. I am having trouble downloading cbugs manual.

[bikerphil]

Jeff, the XJ forks in the pictorial are pretty much the same as your Special forks, yours are less complicated, they don't have that damper adjusting mechanism or the indexed tapered spindle. The only issue you may have is there is a collapsable spacer under the factory fork seal which gets destroyed when removing the old seal. The new seal will fit further down without it which is OK. I don't know how others deal with this new gap on the top between the seal and the snap ring, but I myself make a thin ring spacer out of 1 1/2 PVC pipe to snug things up. It's not like the seal is going anywhere, it is a press fit. Good luck with your rebuild.

[jetmechmarty]

If I knew how, I'd email the pages from the book, or the whole book. I'm afraid I'm handicapped when it comes to these things.

[ExcessiveBiker]

Fork damper bolt removal, EASY.

All,
The simple way to remove the damper bolt, is with a 3/8" air impact tool. I was a factory approved Yamaha mech in the 70's, in Auburn, NY. We took a lot of forks apart in the shop, and this method always worked. No special tools to lose, or a too rusted bolt, and they are cheap to buy.
The butterfly type is very handy to dismantle engines for repair, and when set on lowest power, also speed reassembly, prior to torquing.
The original tip is a great piece for the new mechanic, giving the info on the various fork types.

Happy motoring
ExcessiveBiker

81 Venture
81 Special
80 Midnight
76 XS750

[DGXSER]

I did a pictorial on the Special forks some time ago. I'm on my phone so I can't link to it.

[jjz28]

I did a pictorial on the Special forks some time ago. I'm on my phone so I can't link to it.

I just looked up your threads and found it Don, that's exactly what I needed. Thanks for doing one on the special! I added it to my favorites so I can use it when my seals get here.

[Sobitthen]

Progressive oil volume difference?

At the bottom of the tube there is a component that does not get pulled out in the procedure, isn't this the bushing we need to inspect to see if the copper has worn off? How do we pull that out of the bottom of the top tube?

Also, just performed this on my 79 Standard and swapped in a set of progressive springs with the extra winds on the bottom, anyone use the measurement option and actually measure the CC amount of oil used with the Progressives?

That information would be nice to know so we do not need to do the measurement method and could substitute a known oil capacity when we upgrade during the oil seal replacement.

I used about 220 CC of 10W fork oil and have not taken bike for ride yet, but they are real stiff, applied front brake and bounced, or tried to, it depressed but was slow in both directions.
Some mention in web that they will be stiff for a few rides after a seal swap, but I wanted to know if I used too much oil with the Progressive springs and could pull some out prior to my first ride...

I measured the amount of oil left in my forks that were leaking and there was about 4 oz of dirty oil in them, smelled like hydraulic oil, I used Torco T830010CE RFF 10 Racing Fork Fluid which is a semi-synthetic blend in my project today.

[bikerphil]

The bushing in the fork leg is not removable so don't even try. If you compress the forks all the way, without the springs in there, 6" or so from the oil to the top of the tubes should be fine, never go less than 5 or you may blow a seal. Make sure they are both equal. The higher the level, the less dive you will have upon braking. 220 cc is not too much BTW.

[Sobitthen]

The bushing in the fork leg is not removable so don't even try. If you compress the forks all the way, without the springs in there, 6" or so from the oil to the top of the tubes should be fine, never go less than 5 or you may blow a seal. Make sure they are both equal. The higher the level, the less dive you will have upon braking. 220 cc is not too much BTW.

Thanks...
I didn't check the distance method, just added the volume of 220 cc.
I went out to garage, tempted for a late night ride, 66 out there, would have to put on the leathers, bounced it for 5 minutes, and starting to loosen up, about half the stiction it had earlier. Maybe they will loosen up... Bike Bandit brand was the seal, PartsnMore had the dust boots... No grease used, just fork oil.

[MaximPhil]

hi Sobitthen,
after changing fork oil you need to bounce them a few times.
take it easy for the first ride and include some bumps. Until then you will not know what you have.
Phil

[bikerphil]

Yep, ride it a bit and see how it feels, give it a chance to settle in, they will slide easier over time.