I was wondering if anyone has any special tricks after installing air filters on the carbs as to making sure the air intake lines/hoses don't get dirty. Or if there was a way to remove them entirely and make sure the vents don't get dirty?
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Removing Air Box and fitting single filters on the carbs
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You can't 'get 'rid' of any of them on your '78. The two smaller hoses are your carb vents, and those need to be in place and open. Install some small filters on them, although use 'vent' filters, not fuel filters as those won't always flow enough air if they get fuel on them. The big hose is your crankcase vent, again use a vent filter.
You'll likely have to rejet/tune your carbs with pod filters, and also make sure the filter inlets don't block any of the holes in the carb bell...
If you're looking for a performance increase, you probably won't get one; the main reason most replace the stock airbox is damage or the difficulty of installing/removing the carbs.Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two
'78E original owner - resto project
'78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
'82 XJ rebuild project
'80SG restified, red SOLD
'79F parts...
'81H more parts...
Other current bikes:
'93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
'86 XL883/1200 Chopper
'82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...
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If you're looking for a performance increase, you probably won't get one; the main reason most replace the stock airbox is damage or the difficulty of installing/removing the carbs.Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
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Originally posted by jetmechmarty View PostWith just a little practice, removing the carburetors with the airbox installed only takes a few minutes. I think it was PLANEDICK who made a "how to" video.XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Originally posted by crazy steve View PostThe two smaller hoses are your carb vents, and those need to be in place and open. Install some small filters on them, although use 'vent' filters, not fuel filters as those won't always flow enough air if they get fuel on them. The big hose is your crankcase vent, again use a vent filter.78 E
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My bike has the individual pod filters. What I did was I put on a new longer hose so that was pointing towards the back of the bike and it is out of the way of the pod filters and they dont suck in any of the exhaust it is producing.80 XS11 Bobber/Rat
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For the carbs K&N Part No. RC-0984.
For the crank case vent I would not suggest leaving it open like tjdudeman says. It does suck and blow so you don't want dirt and bugs getting in there to the oil. Instead of an expensive k&n filter just get a generic crank vent filter from an auto parts store.Nathan
KD9ARL
μολὼν λαβέ
1978 XS1100E
K&N Filter
#45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
OEM Exhaust
ATK Fork Brace
LED Dash lights
Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters
Green Monster Coils
SS Brake Lines
Vision 550 Auto Tensioner
In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt
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Originally posted by natemoen View PostFor the carbs K&N Part No. RC-0984.
For the crank case vent I would not suggest leaving it open like tjdudeman says. It does suck and blow so you don't want dirt and bugs getting in there to the oil. Instead of an expensive k&n filter just get a generic crank vent filter from an auto parts store.80 XS11 Bobber/Rat
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Here ya go!
Crankcase filter arrangement I use
Here is a picture of my old setup and you can see the small filters between the air filters. One thing I would recommend over this is to get those lines up higher than I had them (like up to the frame rail above) and that will seem to eliminate a bunch of carb dripping.
Mike Giroir
79 XS-1100 Special
Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.
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I got the crankcase filter several years ago from DennisKirk.com as I recall. It is made for the situation and has the correct size inlet at the bottom and a small stud for mounting on the top.
The vent line filters are just automotive fuel filters from Pep Boys that I fitted to the hoses. But like I said, you need to get them up higher than in the picture. They do work fine, are easy to replace and do not let any dirt into the bowl from the vent hose.Mike Giroir
79 XS-1100 Special
Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.
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That's a nasty ole inlet manifold you have there!XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.
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Originally posted by James England View PostThat's a nasty ole inlet manifold you have there!Mike Giroir
79 XS-1100 Special
Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.
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