Spark plug broken off in head!

[2fast]

While doing some pre-riding season maint work today, a spark plug that has always been rough to thread in and out broke off in the hole. OUCH. Yes, I had to work pretty hard to break it. Should have just left the damn thing, but I didn't. As the weather is still at 7 degrees and there is a foot of snow in the yard, I still have plenty of time to work on it.....
Question is, is there any chance this can be fixed without pulling the head? An easy out maybe? If I have to pull the head, I know it is going to lead to a valve job just on principle. If I do just pull the head and not the cylinders, can I leave the base gasket alone and just replace the head gasket? I'd appreciate any informed ideas before I do more than I have to

[skids]

I have not actually broken a plug in the head, but I did strip the threads of aluminum from the head with the plug! What part of the plug broke?? Did the threaded portion break from the "nut" portion?

Be aware that there is a method of using a shop vacuum, set-up for blowing into the exhaust pipe, with the crank turned to the right position so that the correct exhaut valve is opened. That way, if you have to replace the threads with a spark plug helicoil, the drilled fragments will fly out of the hole instead of dropping into the combustion chamber.

I would try to use an easy-out and be prepared to use a helicoil.

Steel plugs like to fuse to the aluminum threads. I use Never Seize (or what ever it's called) on the threads.

[strom]

Happened to me twice...
Use a screwdriver, flat one, tap it in gently and screw it out. Some WD40 helps, vacuum the stuff out first... all the bits and pieces of debree....

It takes some patience and not too much force.

LP

[MartyA]

If you take the head off, the gasket will likely come off in pieces, and there will be parts of it stuck to the head and jugs, requiring careful scraping. When I lost my cam chain down in, I had to take the head off, and that's how mine came off. BUT, I did nothing to the valves. I had good compression across all 4 - 145-150, so I just cleaned the carbon out of the hemi-head and bolted it back on with a new gasket.

Assuming it is running OK, you CAN take the head off and then bolt it back on without too much fanfare, but you will very likely need a new gasket. Try everything else first and save yourself some $$ for that gasket. If I recall, the spark plug sticks out pretty far into the combustion chamber, so removing the piece from the combustion side should be fairly easy, if you go that route.

[Hobbit]

broken plug

They actually make a broken sparkplug remover. Sort of like an easy out that goes into the sparkplug shell in place of the insulator. Should be available at an auto parts store.
Then they also have a thread chaser for sparkplug holes.
Just make sure to fill the fluted area of the chaser with grease to keep any shavings out of the cylinder.

[Ken Talbot]

When I had to put in a helicoil to fix a stripped sparkplug hole on SWMBO's XJ650, I use the shop vacuum trick and it worked very well. I removed the carbs and ductaped the vacuum hose to the appropriate intake manifold. The hose was connected to the exhaust port of the vacuum. I turned on the vacuum, then turned the motor over until the intake valve was open. This resulted in a very good airflow out of the motor, enough that good eye protection was absolutely mandatory when I started tapping the new threads for the helicoil. The chips flew out of the hole at a very high speed.

I'm thinking this might be a good idea while you're working on getting the broken plug out, especially if you end up having to drill into it to use an extractor.

[2fast]

I appreciate the suggestions. I found this site on the internet and http://www.brokentap.com/index.html wish this guy was local. I think I may try to locate someone locally with the same technology. I had never heard of metal disintegration before. Sound promising and may save me from a lot of teardown. I'll post the results if I find someone and have it done.

[wildbill]

Where you live at there should be someone who works on cars,trucks and other things that you know{good}.Go talk to them,they might have some ideas and might be able to fix it for you.I know things like that happen on other things.Might save yourself alot of time and headache. Worth a thought.Good luck.

[desert1]

never me

Never had it happen to me but don't pull the head, should be a doable venture by using the vacuum method and gently working the plugs remains out piece by piece.....good luck, should work out. just use plenty of wd 40 and keep your chamber clean of debris
Bruce

[2fast]

Stuck plug update

I ended up taking the bike over to a local shop that said they could get it out for me. They assured me that pulling the head was not needed. They drilled it out, thinking that it would need a heli coil after removal. Right before they got to the bottom of the hole, the remains started to turn so they stopped drilling and were able to back out the remains. Then they just ran a thread chaser through the threads and I am back in business! I knew I was gonna like this shop when they told me they had just finished a big bore kit for another customer on another 78 XS11. They have a dyno and were going to run it up on the that for some final tuning before it went back to the owner.
Now to get it back together and ready for spring riding!

[mn2346]

Now, remember to apply some high temperature lubricant to that thread. I'm using antiseize that is mostly used in brakes but seems to work pretty good here also.

-M

[2fast]

I did use antisieze on the plug that broke off, but the treads had been pretty tough for years. For some reason, it would not come out this year. What do you mean by high temp lube? Grease? Or is it something specifically made for plug threads?

[Geezer]

Originally posted by Ken Talbot
When I had to put in a helicoil to fix a stripped sparkplug hole on SWMBO's XJ650, I use the shop vacuum trick and it worked very well. I removed the carbs and ductaped the vacuum hose to the appropriate intake manifold. The hose was connected to the exhaust port of the vacuum. I turned on the vacuum, then turned the motor over until the intake valve was open. This resulted in a very good airflow out of the motor, enough that good eye protection was absolutely mandatory when I started tapping the new threads for the helicoil. The chips flew out of the hole at a very high speed.

I'm thinking this might be a good idea while you're working on getting the broken plug out, especially if you end up having to drill into it to use an extractor.

I've never heard od doing it that way. I'll have to say it's the only way I would recomend installing a heilicoil in a spark plug hole without pulling the head.

Geezer

[Geezer]

Originally posted by 2fast
I did use antisieze on the plug that broke off, but the treads had been pretty tough for years. For some reason, it would not come out this year. What do you mean by high temp lube? Grease? Or is it something specifically made for plug threads?

Grease (high temp or not) will carborize on a spark plug. Only use antiseize compound.

Geezer

[mn2346]

The stuff I ment is used in high temperature harsh environments, there is no carbonizing in plug threads after using this. I have been using it for ten years now with no problems. I can turn my plugs with fingers (when they are loosened naturally).

It is supposed to hold up to +1000 C but that is marketing text...I don't know what it is called in the US but here it is just copperpaste (hope that it is spelled correctly).