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  • #16
    Will agree to disagree Steve. Been riding for close to 40 years, never paid a mechanic for anything in that time, and have been using 15/40 for as long as i can remember, at least the last 25 years, with no issues.

    I have 5 vehicles, (one of which is a high perfromance V8) and with the exception of the diesel truck, i use the same oil in all the rest. Each to his own I guess, but i cant see any reason to change now.
    1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
    2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

    Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

    "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

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    • #17
      I was talking with the owner of a local bike shop the othere day and he told me that theses days there is so much crap in motor oil that you really need to buy "motorcycle" oil so you don't run the chance of messing up your clutch. He stocks good old 20-40 with no synths or aditives. With a smile he said, "yeh now we get to pay more for the old oil we used to get"
      79 XS11 Special (Lazarus)
      80 XS850 Special (Old Faithful)
      80 XS11 Standard sorta stock (Beatrice)
      79 DT 100

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      • #18
        Here's what I use. 100% mineral. No additives.




        It's all right saying "I've always used Castrol GTX" or whatever... the thing is, the Castrol GTX made today is vastly different from that made in the 1970's and 1980's. I looked into this with Castrol. I used to be a fan of GTX. It used to be 100% mineral oil. It now isn't. The bloke at Castrol told me that it's just about unrecognisable and amounts to badge engineering!
        XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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        • #19
          I'm well aware of that James, but I have been using the evolving product for so long now with no issues I trust it enough to continue using it.
          1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
          2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

          Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

          "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by b.walker5 View Post
            I'm well aware of that James, but I have been using the evolving product for so long now with no issues I trust it enough to continue using it.
            Well, stick with what one trusts, I always say. Confidence in a product means a lot. I reckon that's why I've always ridden Yamahas and love them. I've had other makes but usually very short term and I've never really felt at ease with them, Same goes for oil.

            Anyone use/remember Duckhams Q? It was/is green anbd won't mix with any other oil when topping up, doing changes etc.... that's what they said, anyway. I never used it, for that very reason!
            XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by ViperRon View Post
              I have to agree with Steve on the oil and even though there have been improvements in the friction fighters and enhancements which prevent the oil from breaking down there is another issue. There are flow dynamics with different weight oils that can cause wear and damage. Many of these bikes have wear on them and therefore the clearances are not as tight as a new engine. If you put a lighter weight oil in an engine with a lot of miles or hard miles this lighter oil may not be able to keep the oil pressure up causing loss of lubrication to areas. I would not recomend anyone putting a lower than recomended viscosicty oil in one of these bikes for any long period of time. I also think it is just as bad running oil till it has been beat to death. I do know that the original recomendation for oil included 10-40 weight oil for colder climates. I could actually see possibly considering thinner oil for colder areas of Canada but that would be an extreme.

              As for running the 10-30 oil for a short time if you are not reving it hard driving it long distance in heat and the engine is in good shape I do not see it causing a problem for a short term. As for any dealer recomending 10-30 oil I would not ask them anything else and I certianly would not have my bike worked on there.

              I post stuff on here you guys have a wealth of knowledge, I should have checked here first before I bought my oil, and put in the wrong type. It's probably not a bad thing you have to change the oil again, because the motorcycle did sit for a number of years. I'm really flushing out the oil system good. Thanks for all the help and advice guys I really appreciate it.
              xs1100 hartail bobber

              http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...-38-36_563.jpg

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              • #22
                Originally posted by ddragon63 View Post
                I'm confused by this statement. As the temp goes up the thicker the oil you would want to run not the thinner... in cold weather the thinner oil cold flows better. Heat will break down an oil, even a high quality oil, to thinner than its stated weight.
                Yup, I was thinking half backwards there and said that wrong.
                Nathan
                KD9ARL

                μολὼν λαβέ

                1978 XS1100E
                K&N Filter
                #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                OEM Exhaust
                ATK Fork Brace
                LED Dash lights
                Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                Green Monster Coils
                SS Brake Lines
                Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                Theodore Roosevelt

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by James England View Post
                  Here's what I use. 100% mineral. No additives.
                  I'd have thought all engine oils have additives

                  Even Castrol say Classic XL 20W/50 has additives, from their website....
                  "A conventional multigrade engine oil of good all round performance, formulated with high quality mineral oils plus selected additives, ideally suited to older technology and classic car engines. "

                  I do like the sound of the Castrol oil though James, I looked into it and may be able to get bulk drums supplied by Castrol, they're our preferred supplier here at work. Its API SE which was originally specified by Yamahahaha.

                  At the moment I use Morris Ring Free 15W/40 and agree its too thin for older engines.





                  .
                  Tom
                  1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
                  1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
                  1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
                  1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by James England View Post
                    Here's what I use. 100% mineral. No additives.

                    James, all motor oils have additives. Multi-grades in particular were created with additives....
                    Fast, Cheap, Reliable... Pick any two

                    '78E original owner - resto project
                    '78E ???? owner - Modder project FJ forks, 4-piston calipers F/R, 160/80-16 rear tire
                    '82 XJ rebuild project
                    '80SG restified, red SOLD
                    '79F parts...
                    '81H more parts...

                    Other current bikes:
                    '93 XL1200 Anniversary Sportster 85RWHP
                    '86 XL883/1200 Chopper
                    '82 XL1000 w/1450cc Buell, Baker 6-speed, in-progress project
                    Cage: '13 Mustang GT/CS with a few 'custom' touches
                    Yep, can't leave nuthin' alone...

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                    • #25
                      [QUOTE=b.walker5; and i dont ride like a nana.

                      [/QUOTE]

                      You don't know my Nana. 98 years old and will kick azz daily.
                      "If A equals success, then the formula is: A = X + Y + Z. X is work. Y is play. Z is keep your mouth shut." - Albert Einstein

                      "Illegitimi non carborundum"-Joseph W. "Vinegar Joe" Stilwell



                      1980 LG
                      1981 LH

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                      • #26
                        I've spoken to our Castrol supplier about the Castrol XL 20W/50, he's offering me the same discount my employer gets (global pharmceutical giant I ain't gonna name )

                        He also admitted that its not made by Castrol but sub-contracted, he did assure me theres no way Castrol would put their name on it if it was not up to standard.






                        .
                        Tom
                        1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
                        1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
                        1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
                        1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Best oil on the planet as far as im concerned. Castrol, that is.
                          1980 SG. (Sold - waiting on replacement)
                          2000 XJR1300. The Real modern XS11. Others are just pretenders.

                          Woman (well, my wife anyway) are always on Transmit and never Receive.

                          "A man should look for what is, and not for what he thinks should be" Albert Einstien.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by crazy steve View Post
                            James, all motor oils have additives. Multi-grades in particular were created with additives....
                            Yes, you're right of course. I think of additives as the modern ones... you know... with cleaning agents, semi-synth bits etc. I'll revise that rash statement of mine.... "Here's what I use. 100% mineral and few additives"!
                            XS1100F 1980 European model. Standard. Dyna coils. Iridium plugs. XS750 final drive (sometimes). Micron fork brace. Progressive front springs. Geezer regulator/rectifier. Stainless 4 into 2 exhaust. Auto CCT (Venturer 1300) SOLD. New project now on the go. 1980 European model.

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              got it done

                              i finally got the time to change out the oil with the right stuff. i didnt ride it at all with the 10w-30 i was scared that i might mess up some thing, and since i was going to change it i wanted it all to settle so that when i drained it there wouldnt be any of the 10w-30 in it at all. thanks again for everyones help.
                              xs1100 hartail bobber

                              http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/...-38-36_563.jpg

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